Needle and Flame
A Novel of the Shirtwaist Uprising
by Hannah Adler
The Borrowed Name
The inspector's chalk hovered over her coat like a verdict, and Raizel gave him the name of a dead girl.
She had practiced the silence of it for eleven days, across a sea the color of dishwater, in the steerage hold where the air was made of breath and salt and the green sickness of seven hundred strangers. She had practiced not crying. She had practiced sitting very straight on the splintered bench with the cloth bundle on her knees so that no one would think she was the kind of girl who could be pushed, and she had practiced, most of all, the name. Beyle. Bella on the paper, because that was how the steamship clerk in Hamburg had spelled it, his pen scratching the Yiddish into something the new country could read. Bella Lindner, seventeen, of Tarova in the district of Volhynia, a seamstress by trade. All of it true except the one thing under it, which was that Beyle was three months in the ground and the girl who carried her papers up the wooden ramp into the great hall was the wrong sister, the younger one, the one the family had not saved.
The hall swallowed sound and gave it back doubled. It was the largest room she had ever stood inside, larger than the wooden shul in Tarova that had burned, with a roof of iron arches like the ribs of some animal that had eaten them all and was holding them now in its belly, and the light came down gray and even on a thousand people penned between brass rails. They moved in lines. She understood at once that everything here would be lines. A man in a blue uniform took her by the chin without asking and tipped her face to the light, and another man behind him watched her walk eight steps and turn, watching her hips, her knees, the way her feet came down, and she did not understand until later that they were looking for the limp, the labored breath, the thing that would make her a burden and not a worker, and that a chalk letter on her shoulder could put her back on the boat alone.
The buttonhook was the worst of it. She had heard of it in the hold, passed mother to daughter like a curse — the eye man, they said, the one who turns your lids. When her turn came he was small and bored and smelled of carbolic, and he took her eyelid between a metal hook and his thumbnail and folded it back the way you would turn a sock, and she stood with her eye wide to the iron roof and her whole life balanced on whether the inside of her own lid was clean. Trachoma sent you back. Trachoma was the ocean again, alone, and the burned village at the end of it with no one left in it but the dead. He let the lid go. He said a word she did not know and chalked nothing, and moved his hook to the next eye in the next face, and Raizel breathed.
So when the man at the high desk dipped his pen and asked her — through the interpreter, a tired Galitzianer who rattled the question without lifting his head — who she was, she did not hesitate, because she had spent eleven days teaching herself not to.
"Bella," she said. "Bella Lindner."
The pen wrote it. She watched the ink go onto the line, the loops of a name that was not hers settling into the great ledger of the country, and she felt the lie close over her like water over a stone dropped in the airshaft well, no splash, only the surface healing shut. The interpreter asked was someone meeting her. She said her aunt. The man stamped the paper and the stamp was very loud, one hard blow, and it was done. She was admitted. She was Bella now, on the books of the United States, and somewhere under the new name the old one folded itself small and went quiet, the way Raizel had learned to go quiet in the root cellar with her hand pressed over her own mouth while above her the village made a sound she would spend the rest of her life not describing.
Tarova came to her then, fast and uninvited, the way it always would — not a memory so much as a smell, woodsmoke where no one was cooking, and under it the other smell. The night the Cossacks came down the Bistraya road with torches and the good Christian neighbors closed their shutters. Her father at the door with the candlesticks in his arms as if brass could be reasoned with. Her mother's hands. The single ticket bought with three years of the dowry money and the sale of the cow and her father's watch, bought for the eldest, for Beyle, who was strong and clever and engaged to a man in America and was meant to go first and send for them all — and Beyle dead of the typhus in March before the ship, the ticket lying on the table like an accusation, and Tante Gitl's letter from across the sea: Then send the other one. Send Raizel on Beyle's papers. A name is a name to them; they cannot tell our girls apart. And her father, what was left of him after that summer, pressing the cloth bundle into her hands and not meeting her eyes, because they both knew what it meant that she was going. It meant she was the one who could be spared. It meant the family had chosen, and she was the leftover, the wrong daughter living on the right one's name, and that she would carry Beyle to America inside her own skin and never set her down.
She did not weep in the great hall. She had practiced that too.
—
Tante Gitl claimed her at the Battery, in the crush beyond the iron gates where the new ones came out into the light and the city hit them all at once. Her aunt was smaller than the letters had made her, a square brown woman in a sheitel gone rusty at the part, with her mother's chin — Raizel saw it and her breath caught, that here was a piece of her mother walking the earth — and none of her mother's softness. Gitl took her by both shoulders and looked at her hard, the way the inspectors had, checking her over, and what she said first was not welcome.
"You're thin," Gitl said in Yiddish. "Well. We'll feed you. Come. And don't gape, you'll be marked for a greenhorn before we cross the street."
But Raizel gaped. She could not help it. Beyond the water and the trees of the Battery the city stood up into the haze, taller than anything God had made, brick and stone climbing past where chimneys should stop and going on climbing, and the noise of it reached across the grass to meet her, a low continuous roar she would learn was simply the sound the place made all the time, like a sea that never went out. Gitl steered her into it. They went up from the harbor into streets that narrowed and darkened and filled, and the roar resolved into its thousand parts — the iron wheels on the cobbles, the el somewhere overhead shaking the air, the bells, and the voices, the voices, in Yiddish and Italian and tongues she did not know, all of them selling, all of them shouting prices into the din.
And the smell. Tarova had smelled of one thing at a time, bread or beasts or river or snow. This smelled of everything at once and forever: herring in open barrels and horse and the sweet rot of cabbage leaves trodden into the gutter, coal smoke and hot fat and the privies in the back courts, and under all of it a human smell, dense, the smell of too many people breathing the same small air. The pushcarts stood wheel to wheel down the whole length of the street, Hester Street, Gitl said, naming it like a place that mattered, and on them was everything a person could want or sell — pickles and suspenders and eyeglasses and remnants of cloth and tin pans and books, the books in Hebrew letters, and Raizel felt something loosen in her chest at that, that here even on a cart in the street the alphabet of home was for sale.
"Don't slow," said Gitl, and pulled her on.
The tenement was on Hester near the corner, a tall narrow brick face like all the others, with iron stairs zigzagging down the front and washing strung between the windows like signal flags of a country with no army but its laundry. Inside, the hall was dark at noon and smelled of gas and other people's suppers, and they climbed — Raizel counting without meaning to, the way she would always count stairs now — past doors behind which children cried and a man coughed and a sewing machine ran its long stutter, up four flights to two rooms at the back, a kitchen and a bedroom, that held, Gitl told her plainly, Gitl and her boarder Mrs. Kessler and now Raizel as well, three women and the front room let out at night to a presser who worked days, so that the bed was never cold and never empty and never, quite, anyone's.
The front room had one window, and the window gave not onto the street but onto the airshaft. Raizel went to it while Gitl banked the stove. The shaft was a brick well two arms wide, running straight down past every floor and straight up to a far square of white sky, and it was full of voices. They came up it and down it and across it, disembodied, intimate — a woman scolding a child in Italian three floors down, a man laughing, a baby that would not stop, a couple's low quarrel, the clatter of a pot, somebody singing a wordless tune very softly to herself as if she thought no one could hear. The shaft carried it all and gave everyone everyone else's life, the whole building breathing into the one column of stale air, nine floors of strangers exhaling up the brick. Raizel stood with her hand on the cold sill and listened to the building breathe and understood that she would never again, in this country, be alone, and would never again be among her own.
—
That night, after the herring and the bread and the tea drunk through a sugar cube held in the teeth, after Mrs. Kessler had said her three sentences and gone to sleep facing the wall, Raizel unwrapped her one fine thing.
She did it by the window in the last of the shaft-light, slowly, the way you uncover something that hurts. The cloth bundle held her shawl, two shifts, a heel of black bread gone hard, her mother's brass candlestick — only the one; the other had bought passage — and at the bottom, rolled in a stocking, the scissors. Her mother's good scissors, the dressmaking shears, long and heavy and bright, the best thing the house had owned, brought as a bride to Tarova and used for thirty years to cut the cloth that fed them in the lean seasons when her mother took in sewing. The blades met true all the way to the tips; you could hear it, that clean small bite, when you closed them on the air. And on the bow, worn nearly smooth by her mother's thumb across thirty years of cutting, were two letters scratched into the metal in the old square hand — a mem, a lamed — her mother's initials, Malke Lindner, so faint now you had to tilt them to the light to read them at all, a ghost of a name in the brass.
She held them and did not cry, and Gitl watched her from the doorway with her arms folded.
"Good steel," Gitl said. "You'll be glad of those. A girl who brings her own shears doesn't borrow and doesn't beg." She came and sat on the edge of the bed, and her voice changed, came down to the register of business, of futures arranged. "Now. Listen to me, Raizele, because I'll say it once and then we don't speak of it. Tomorrow you start at the shirtwaist works, the Pearl, on the ninth floor — I spoke to a woman who spoke to the foreman, it's settled, you'll learn the machine and earn. It's good clean work, sitting work, not the laundry, not the cigars. And in a year, year and a half, when you've a little put by and you've lost that look of the boat — there's a man. Falk, the butcher on Norfolk Street. A widower, no children living, his own shop, his own rooms. Older, yes. But a girl alone in this country with no father and no money and"— she paused, and her dark eyes found Raizel's and held them—"and no real name of her own, such a girl does not get to be particular. She gets to be safe. Do you understand me?"
Raizel held the scissors in her lap and said nothing, which Gitl took for assent, and perhaps it was.
"One more thing." Gitl leaned in, and now her voice dropped under the airshaft's murmur, almost gentle, which was worse than harsh. "On paper you are your sister. You are Bella. There is a girl named Raizel Lindner and as far as this country knows she is dead in Tarova with the rest, and it must stay that way, do you hear, or they put you on a boat and there is no Tarova to send you back to, there is nothing, there is the sea. So. You keep your head down and you make no trouble and you give nobody, ever, a reason to pull your paper and look twice at it. A quiet girl, a good worker, a married woman by and by — no clerk will ever look. Make trouble"— she straightened, and the gentleness went out of her like a lamp turned down—"and you make it for both of us. I went surety for you. Remember that."
Then she rose and went to her bed, and the room went dark, and the airshaft took up the night work of the building — the cough, the baby, somewhere far up the soft endless singing.
Raizel lay on the narrow front-room bed that smelled of the day presser, a stranger's warmth gone cold in it, and held the scissors against her, and felt the worn letters of her mother's name under her thumb the way her mother must have felt them ten thousand times. Three names she had now. Raizel, that no one in this whole roaring country was permitted to say. Beyle, dead, lent to her like a coat too long in the sleeves. And Bella, the new one, the paper one, the one with the future in it and the butcher at the end of it and the locked safety Gitl prayed for. She did not know yet which of them she would become. She knew only that tomorrow she would climb to the ninth floor and sit at the machine and become useful, and quiet, and hidden, and that this was the whole of what was asked of her: to disappear into the borrowed name and not be looked at.
She slept with the scissors under her cheek and the airshaft breathing nine floors of strangers, and in her dream she was climbing.
The Ninth Floor
She climbed, and at the ninth floor the noise met her like a wall of water and would not let her back down.
It had begun in the street before dawn, the climb. Tante Gitl had walked her to the corner of Washington Square in the blue dark, pinned a card with the address inside Rose's collar where a pickpocket could not reach it, and told her to keep her eyes on the floor and her tongue behind her teeth, and that a girl who made no trouble kept her wages, and a girl who kept her wages was halfway to a husband. Then she had turned back toward the pushcarts and the fish she would gut all day, and Rose had stood alone at the foot of a building that went up and up until the top of it leaned against the paling sky.
The Ostrander Building. Brick the color of dried blood, ten stories of windows, and over the door a stone face with stone leaves in its hair that watched her go in. The lobby smelled of cold ash and machine oil. There was a freight elevator with a boy asleep against its grille, but the boy did not stir for learners, and a hand-lettered sign sent the girls to the stairs.
So she climbed. The stair was iron, and it rang. By the third floor the ringing was not only the stair but feet above her and feet below, a whole tenement of feet going up in the dark, girls she could not see breathing and coughing in the shaft of the stairwell exactly the way the strangers had breathed all night in the airshaft of Gitl's flat, so that for a dizzy moment she was not awake at all but still in the dream, still climbing toward a thing she could not see. Fourth floor. Fifth. Her legs learned the count without her. Somewhere a girl laughed and was hushed. Sixth. Seventh. The air thickened and warmed and began to taste of something — scorched, sweet, a smell she would later know as oil burning off hot needles and the dust of cut cotton hanging in the heat. Eighth.
Ninth.
The door at the top stood open, and the noise came out of it the way water comes through a broken dike, all at once, with weight. It went into her chest. It went into her teeth. Underneath everything was a deep churning hum, the belts and the shafting, and over it the hammering of the machines themselves, hundreds of them, a sound like rain on a tin roof if the rain were made of iron and never stopped. She put her hand to the doorframe. The frame trembled under her palm.
Inside was a single room as long as a street.
Rows. That was the first thing the eye could hold — rows of women at rows of machines, bent the same way, the same curve to every spine, running from the door away into a far haze of lint and gaslight where the rows became a gray smear and you could not count them anymore. Above their heads ran the long lines of leather belting, looping down from a steel shaft that turned along the ceiling, every belt slapping down into a machine and dragging it alive. The belts threw off a fine warm wind. The wind carried the lint, and the lint hung in the gaslight in slow drifts, and the women breathed it, and so, after one breath, did Rose. It coated the back of her throat. The windows along the far wall were gray with it, painted over with summer's worth of cotton dust, so that the bright May morning came through them already dirtied, the color of weak tea.
A man was shouting at her. She understood that before she understood the words, because his face was close and red and the cords stood in his neck.
"Learner?" He had a flat cap pushed back and a pencil behind his ear and a face that had been handsome once and gone to suet. "You. Are you the learner Brenner sent?"
"Bella," she said, and the false name came out of her smaller than the noise, and he did not hear it and did not care.
"Grier," he said, jerking a thumb at his own chest, as if she would need to know whom to fear. "Mr. Grier to you. You can sew? No. They never can. You'll learn or you'll go." He took her by the shoulder, not hard but as you take a sack you mean to set down somewhere, and steered her down the aisle between the rows, and the women did not look up. That was the strange thing. A stranger walked among them and not one head lifted from the cloth. Their hands flew. The cloth ran under the needles like white water.
He set her at the end of a row beside a heavy machine where a thin woman with a sharp clever face was already feeding a long seam through. "Fein," Grier said to the woman, "here's your learner. Snip and turn and pile for her, and mind she don't bleed on the goods." To Rose he said, "You serve Fein. She's an operator, she's paid by the piece, so what you cost her in slowness she'll take out of your hide, not mine. You clip the threads, you turn the collars right side out, you carry the finished to the boy and the cut to the table, you keep her stocked so her foot never stops. You're paid by her, not by the house. Three dollars the week if she keeps you. Stand here."
Three dollars. Gitl had said four. Rose opened her mouth and shut it again, because Fein had already shoved a heap of cut sleeves into her hands, warm from the cutter's table, and the operator's foot was down and the needle was running and there was no longer any room in the world for a question.
She learned the work the way you learn to breathe underwater, which is to say badly and in a panic. Clip. Turn. The threads were everywhere; she clipped one and three more sprang up. The finished waists had to go down the aisle to the bundle boys, who were small and quick and ran with their arms full, dropping nothing, never still — boys of nine or ten with old men's eyes, and one of them, passing, snatched her finished pile and was gone before she could be glad of it. Fein never spoke except to hiss "fester, fester," faster, and once, when Rose turned a collar inside out and handed it back wrong, to spit a word Rose did not know and would not have wanted translated.
Time bent. She could not have said whether an hour had gone or four when the floor changed under her, a small ripple of straightening backs moving down the rows ahead of a man coming up the aisle, and she understood without being told that this was the owner because he wore a watch chain across a clean waistcoat and walked as if the floor had been laid for him. Beside him came a woman in a feathered hat, a visitor, a lady, holding a scented handkerchief not quite to her nose. Pearlman — for it was Pearlman, the Shirtwaist King himself — stopped at the head of the row and spread his hands as a man spreads his hands over a table he has set.
"My girls," he said, in English, for the lady. "You see how it is. Air, light, steady work. I tell people, I don't run a factory, I run a family. Isn't that so?" And he beamed down the row, and a few of the older women smiled the small fixed smiles of people who have learned what a smile is worth, and Fein's foot never lifted from the treadle, and the lady murmured that it was wonderful, really, what was being done for these people, and they passed on. The scent of her went by — violets, over the oil and the lint — and was gone, and the rows bent down again into the white water.
The rules came to Rose one at a time, all morning, each one with its own small cut.
The first came when a girl two rows over arrived late and Grier was on her before she had her shawl off, his pencil out, marking the ledger he carried. "Twenty-five cents," he said, loud, for the floor. "And don't make a face at me." A quarter. Most of a day's learner-wage, gone for the crime of a streetcar that did not come.
The second was Rose's own. She turned a seam and it ran crooked under Fein's needle, and Fein cursed and ripped it and threw it down, and Grier appeared as if the crooked seam had summoned him, looked at the ruined waist, and made his mark. "Spoiled goods. Ten cents off the operator, and she'll have it from you." Fein gave her a look that promised exactly that.
The third was a word. A girl down the row said something to her neighbor, three syllables, a joke maybe, and laughed, and Grier's head came up like a dog's. "You want to talk," he said, "talk at home. Five cents. This is a shop, not a tea party." After that the floor was only the machines.
There was one privy for the whole ninth floor, behind a door at the dark end, and a girl who needed it had to catch Grier's eye and be nodded to, and he kept count, and was free with his opinions about girls who needed it too often. Rose did not look at the door. She held herself and bent to the cloth and learned that her body, too, was the company's now, parceled out in nods.
It was past noon, the gaslight steady against the dirty windows, when she finally let her eyes travel down the long room to the far wall — and saw the doors.
Two. One stood propped on the Washington Place side, the stair she had come up, with a man near it she took for a watchman. The other was at the Greene Street end, and as she watched, Grier went to it, and into it, and a moment later came out and did a thing she did not understand and then understood entirely. He took a key from his belt — a heavy key on a ring chained to him — and he turned it in the lock, and he tried the handle, once, to be sure, and the door did not give. He dropped the key back to his belt.
The woman across the aisle saw Rose watching. She was older than the others, forty-five maybe, gray coming in at her temples, her shoulders rounded into a permanent flinch, and her hands moved over the finishing work without her seeming to attend to them at all, the way a person says a prayer they no longer hear. She did not stop working. But she spoke, low, under the machines, in Yiddish, so that the words reached Rose and no further.
"Don't look at it," the woman said. "It does no good to look at it."
"Why does he lock it?" Rose whispered.
"So nothing walks out in your apron." The woman's mouth twisted. "That's what he says. So a girl can't go down the Greene Street stair with a waist under her shawl and sell it. Everybody goes out the one door at night, past Grier, and he looks in your bag, every bag, every night, so you'll know you're a thief before you've stolen anything." She clipped a thread. "I'm Sadie. Keep your head down, learner. Keep it down and you'll keep your place. That's all there is to know up here."
Rose looked, once more, because she could not help it — not at the locked door now but past it, through the gray window beside it, where a black iron thing zigzagged down the brick of the airshaft outside. A fire escape. One. Rusted at the joints, narrow as a ladder, and where it should have come down into the yard it ended in the air a story above the ground, unfinished, a stair to nowhere. Then Sadie's eyes warned her and she bent back to the cloth.
The afternoon had no bottom. Her shoulders burned and then stopped burning and went to a dull far ache she stopped noticing. Lint silvered the dark hair on her arms. Twice she clipped her own finger instead of the thread and sucked the blood off before it could reach the goods, because Grier had said don't bleed on the goods and that, at least, she had understood the first time. Her hands, by the last hour, had begun to shake — not from fear now but from use, a fine continuous tremor she could not still, so that the scissors danced in her fingers and she had to grip them till the engraved letters of her mother's initials bit into her palm.
At the next machine down, the finisher Grier had set her beside in the morning rush had been moved, and another girl had taken the place — younger than Sadie, near Rose's own age, with black hair escaping its pins and quick dark eyes that had been stealing looks at the new learner all afternoon. When their eyes met now the girl did not look away. She smiled, fast, conspirator's smile, and tipped her head a fraction toward Grier's back, and crossed her own eyes, and Rose felt something in her chest that had been clenched all day come loose by a single notch.
Then the whistle blew.
It came from somewhere above and went through the floor like a knife through cloth, and all at once the machines died, row by row, the belts slapping idle, the great shaft groaning down to stillness, and into the new and ringing quiet came the human sounds the noise had hidden all day — coughing, the scrape of stools, a hundred women rising on legs that had forgotten how. They formed a line. Rose understood the line without being told: it led to the one open door, where Grier stood with his ledger and his hand out, and beside him another man to look in the bags. The line moved one girl at a time. Each girl opened her bag, or her shawl, or held out her empty hands, and was looked at, and was let by, and the locked Greene Street door stayed locked behind them all so that the whole ninth floor poured out through a single eye like sand through a glass.
It was slow. Rose stood in it, swaying, her hands still shaking, the day roaring on in her ears though the machines had stopped. The dark-haired girl had come up beside her in the line, close, their shoulders touching. When the door let them out one girl at a time and they came at last into the cooler dark of the stairwell, the girl reached into her own shawl and brought out something wrapped in paper, and broke it, and pressed half of it into Rose's open palm, warm, the crust soft, without a word of asking.
"Pane," she said.
Rose did not know the word, but she knew the bread.
End of the free sample
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