A Canterbury Pilgrimage

In Short

This travelogue captures a three-day cycling tour from London to Canterbury during the late Victorian era. Through a blend of humor, lighthearted observation, and genuine admiration for the Kentish countryside, the authors mirror the medieval pilgrimage of Chaucer’s characters while navigating the modern realities of 1880s road travel. It remains a charming, modest record of a bygone mode of exploration, celebrated for its candid perspective on the joys and physical struggles of long-distance cycling when such travel was still a novelty.

The Story

The journey begins in the stifling heat of a London August. Seeking an experience more meaningful than the typical rail travel of their peers, the authors decide to follow the historical path of the legendary Canterbury pilgrims. Equipped with a tricycle, they set out to traverse the road that once hummed with the tales of Chaucer’s fictional travelers. Their departure is marked by the skepticism of a cab driver who threatens to "burn all them things," an early sign that their mechanical contraption is a curiosity to many.

As they pedal through the Kentish landscape, the narrative moves from the industrial outskirts to the picturesque, sun-drenched fields of hop gardens and orchards. The authors stop at historic landmarks and small, sleepy villages, often sketching what they see and documenting the reactions of the local people—from scowling laborers to enchanted children. The road tests them: they struggle through thick sand, navigate daunting hills like Boughton, and endure the occasional social friction that comes with being "strange" Americans abroad. Along the way, they encounter a variety of travelers, including a particularly difficult couple whose constant bickering over their own tandem bike provides a stark contrast to the authors' own relative harmony.

Upon arriving in Rochester, they find that the historic inns of the medieval pilgrims have largely vanished, replaced by modern establishments. This theme of searching for the past in a modern, often indifferent world persists as they push on to Canterbury. They face physical exhaustion and the ridicule of passersby, yet they persevere, fueled by the beauty of the passing scenery and the romantic pull of their destination.

The pilgrimage concludes at the Canterbury Cathedral. After navigating the bustling, modern-day marketplace and enduring a tour led by a long-winded, slightly irreverent verger, they finally reach the site of the shrine of Saint Thomas. In a final, deflating moment of historical irony, the verger informs them that the relics they sought were destroyed centuries ago by Henry VIII. The authors are left not with a holy relic, but with the quiet satisfaction of having completed the physical journey, recognizing that the "shrine" itself, like the original pilgrims' hostels, has been lost to time.

How It Unfolds

The voyage begins The authors depart London on a tricycle, intending to follow the path of medieval pilgrims while battling heavy traffic and the scorn of local drivers. They navigate the Old Kent Road, stopping at historic spots and sketching the picturesque gabled cottages that remind them of a simpler time.

The rolling countryside Leaving the city behind, the route opens into lush meadows, hop gardens, and quiet villages where the air is scented with clematis. Despite the beauty, the road presents physical challenges, and the authors encounter a variety of locals, from curious children to suspicious elders.

A test of temperaments In Sittingbourne, the authors meet a bickering couple whose intense dislike for their own tandem bike highlights the difficulties of cycle touring. This encounter underscores the reality that traveling by machine requires patience and humor, traits the authors try to maintain as they face more challenging, sandy roads.

The climb to Canterbury The journey becomes strenuous as they approach Boughton Hill, a steep ascent that forces them to walk. The sight of the distant cathedral finally rewards their efforts, and they settle into an inn to prepare for their visit to the holy site.

The final destination After touring the town and attending a service at the cathedral, they are led by a verger to the long-sought shrine. They learn, to their amusement and disappointment, that the martyr’s bones were burned long ago, leaving only the memory of the pilgrimage behind.

The People

The authors, Joseph and Elizabeth, serve as the steady, observational center of the book. They are curious, modest, and possess a dry wit that allows them to laugh at their own misfortunes. Joseph, the artist, is often found with a sketchbook in hand, while Elizabeth provides the narrative voice, balancing their romanticized view of history with the practical, often messy realities of their transit.

The people they meet along the way act as mirrors to the authors’ own journey. There is the "fierce little cycler" at Sittingbourne, a man who loathes his tandem and is perpetually at odds with his wife; he represents the frustrations of travel that the authors strive to avoid. Then there is the verger at the cathedral, a man of bureaucratic routine who treats the sacred site as a mere curiosity for tourists, highlighting the gap between the authors' idealized pilgrimage and the modern, commercialized reality they find in Canterbury. Finally, the various children they encounter—cheering them on as they coast down hills—provide a sense of wonder and warmth, grounding the authors in the living, breathing landscape of Kent.

In Its Own Voice

"Ours was no ordinary journey by rail, which is the way latter-day pilgrims mostly travel."

The authors reflect on their choice to cycle the route rather than take the modern, easy way.

"'Oh, mother, it's the church!' was her next cry."

A child on the roadside reacts with delight while observing Joseph as he stops to sketch a local landmark.

"'Which now,' he said, solemnly, 'you have come to the shrine of the saintly Thomas.'"

The verger finally brings them to the destination, only to reveal the historical irony of their quest.

What It's Really About

The book explores the tension between the romantic, historical imagination and the reality of the present. The authors seek to connect with the past by physically retracing the steps of Chaucer’s characters, yet they are constantly reminded that the "holy" sites and the road itself have been transformed by time, industry, and changing social customs. It is a meditation on the nature of pilgrimage: whether it is the destination that matters, or the act of moving through the world with one's eyes open. They ultimately suggest that the meaning of the journey is found not in finding a relic, but in the experience of the road, the people met, and the persistence required to finish.

Why Read It Today

Readers who enjoy travelogues and have an interest in cycling history will find this book particularly rewarding. It offers a vivid, sensory-rich portrait of 1880s England, capturing a time when the bicycle was a liberating, if often misunderstood, technology. The prose is warm and personal, making it feel less like a dry historical account and more like a shared experience with a sharp-eyed, good-humored friend.

Modern readers should be prepared for the period-specific attitudes; the authors are occasionally blunt in their observations of the "lower classes" and the tramps they encounter on the road, reflecting the prejudices of their time. The book is not a high-octane adventure, but rather a slow-paced, atmospheric reflection on the joys of exploration. Those who appreciate the charm of a well-told story, the beauty of the English countryside, and the gentle irony of human endeavor will find it a delightful, if modest, read. It remains a lasting document of how a simple journey can reveal much about both the traveler and the world they pass through.