A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of France

In Short

This comprehensive chronicle traces the evolution of Champagne from its early days as a still, undistinguished regional product to its status as a global phenomenon. Moving through the centuries, it details the religious, political, and technical shifts that shaped the industry, most notably the legendary work of Dom Pérignon. It serves as both a historical record and a technical manual, capturing the physical labor of the vineyards, the intricate mechanics of the fermentation cellar, and the wine’s enduring role in the world’s most significant celebrations. It remains a definitive, deeply researched account of a singular French craft, sustained by its devotion to detail and its genuine love for the subject.

The Story

The narrative begins in the ancient, often war-torn province of Champagne, where the viticulture of the region was intimately tied to the local bishops and the Frankish monarchs. Early on, Reims stood at the center of this volatile history, suffering through barbarian invasions and the ravages of war, yet always returning to its vines. The story follows the steady progress of winemaking as it transitioned from a local necessity for guests and coronations into a refined art.

The pivotal moment arrives with the Benedictine monk Dom Pérignon, whose legendary experiments redefined the product. By discovering how to create a perfectly white wine from black grapes and mastering the science of effervescence, he transformed the region's output. His innovations—including the proper use of corks and the development of the thin, tapering flute—set the stage for Champagne to become the "frantically adored" luxury of the French court and beyond.

As the narrative moves into the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, the scope expands to capture the wine’s global conquest. It becomes the drink of kings, poets, and soldiers alike, finding its way to the tables of Frederick the Great, George II, and eventually to the far corners of the East and the African continent. Despite the persistent skepticism of some connoisseurs and the disruption of wartime, the industry thrived. The later chapters detail the transition from small-scale production to the massive, industrial-scale cellars of major houses like Moët & Chandon and Clicquot.

The story concludes with a look at the modern era, where the "wildfire wine of France" has become a fixture of weddings, coming-of-age banquets, and grand social gatherings worldwide. It ends with a defense of the product, asserting that while other wines like Bordeaux and Burgundy have their own merits, Champagne remains the true "sparkling soul of mirth," essential for the spirit of celebration.

How It Unfolds

The foundations of the vine The narrative begins with the historical roots of the Champagne region, exploring how local vineyards survived the desolation of the Vandal and Hunnish invasions. It highlights the essential, often intertwined relationship between the church, the French monarchy, and the production of still wines.

The Benedictine revolution The account shifts to the transformative period under Dom Pérignon, where the secrets of sparkling production are finally unlocked. This section details the technical breakthroughs in bottling, corking, and glass design that allowed the wine’s effervescence to be controlled and enjoyed.

The age of courtly indulgence The story follows the wine as it moves into the aristocratic social circles of the eighteenth century, becoming a tool for wit and political diplomacy. It documents how the "vin mousseux" fueled the intellectual and social life of an era defined by its poets and its pleasure-seeking elite.

The global expansion The narrative tracks the export of Champagne to distant markets, from the courts of Europe to the hospitality tables of India and the curiosity of the Japanese. It examines how a local French product became a universal shorthand for international luxury and refinement.

The technical reality The final movement provides a grounded look at the modern industry, detailing the manual labor of the harvest and the scientific precision of the cellars. It explores the diverse tiers of aging and the specific conditions required to produce a "grand vintage" that truly captures the character of the Marne.

The People

Dom Pérignon stands as the central figure, a man whose quiet, contemplative life in the abbey cellar led to the most significant discovery in the history of the drink. He is driven by a quest for perfection, seeking to tame the "dance of the sparkling atoms" and refine the wine into something "twice as dainty to the palate."

Bertin du Rocheret acts as a bridge between the old world of skeptical connoisseurs and the new world of commercial distribution. His letters reflect the pride and the profit-seeking nature of the trade, as he maneuvers the wine into the hands of monarchs and high-ranking officials.

The monarchs of Europe, from Louis XVI to Frederick the Great, appear as the wine’s primary ambassadors. For them, Champagne is a tool of statecraft and a source of consolation, though their own personalities color their appreciation—some finding in the foam a reflection of the nation’s spirit, others simply finding it a necessary comfort in the face of political upheaval.

Finally, the anonymous laborers—the vintagers with their serpettes, the dégorgeurs working in the dark, cool galleries, and the hostesses like Dame Alice of the "Striped Ass"—are presented as the essential, if overlooked, backbone of the industry. Their physical struggle against the elements and their dedication to the craft ensure that, regardless of the changing political tides, the wine continues to flow.

In Its Own Voice

"To him, too, we owe not only sparkling Champagne itself, but the proper kind of glass to drink it out of."

This statement frames the significance of Dom Pérignon’s contribution to the culture of the wine.

"Really good Champagne should not be iced below a temperature of fifty degrees Fahr.; whereas exceedingly sweet wines will bear icing down almost to freezing point, and be rendered more palatable by the process."

These instructions offer a practical, expert perspective on the proper enjoyment of the beverage.

What It's Really About

At its core, this book is an exploration of how a regional agricultural product becomes a cultural icon. It argues that Champagne is not merely a fermented liquid but a reflection of the national character of France—"ingenuous," "brilliant," and perpetually effervescent. It addresses the tension between tradition and industry, tracing the evolution from the simple, manual methods of the medieval period to the sophisticated, mechanical processes of the late nineteenth century. It poses a fundamental question: how does a substance, essentially composed of "fixed air" and grape juice, acquire the power to dictate the rhythm of human celebration? The book suggests that the answer lies in the wine’s ability to "untether" the soul, providing a temporary escape from a world that is often "grim." It is an argument for the necessity of pleasure and the civilizing influence of a refined, shared luxury.

Why Read It Today

Readers with an interest in culinary history or the development of luxury goods will find this work invaluable. Its tone is earnest and deeply informative, written by someone who has clearly walked the vineyards and spent time in the cool, dark vaults of the Marne. It is a rewarding read for anyone who enjoys a blend of historical sweep and technical detail, though it requires patience for the dense, scholarly footnotes that fill many of its pages.

The prose itself captures the Victorian-era enthusiasm for its subject, occasionally breaking into poetry to honor the "wildfire wine." However, the reader should be prepared for the period attitudes embedded in its descriptions, including its casual references to the global reach of French colonial influence. The book’s greatest strength is its descriptive power; one can almost feel the chill of the three-story cellars and smell the damp earth of the vineyards. It serves as a reminder of the immense human labor required to produce a single bottle of luxury. You will walk away from these pages with a much deeper appreciation for the "dance of the sparkling atoms" in your glass, understanding that every sip is the culmination of centuries of experimentation, political maneuvering, and hard, honest work. It is a testament to the idea that some things, like the finest Champagne, are worth the effort required to produce them, and that they carry a history as complex and vibrant as the foam itself.