A Little Tour in Ireland

In Short

First published in 1859 by an Oxford undergraduate who later became Dean of Rochester, this travelogue follows two young Englishmen journeying from Dublin through Galway, Connemara, Limerick, Killarney, and Cork. Illustrated by John Leech, the narrative blends lighthearted banter, classical references, and keen observations of post-famine Irish society. It captures a landscape of stark contrasts: breathtaking lakes and mountains alongside ruined estates and enduring poverty. The book has lasted because its humor is tempered by genuine affection, offering a vivid snapshot of Victorian tourism and a compassionate look at a country in transition.

The Story

The narrative opens with two English companions—the narrator and his friend Frank—crossing the sea from London to Dublin in a mere twelve hours. Upon landing at Kingstown quay, they immediately encounter local color in the form of an outside car, experiencing the thrilling insecurity of Irish transport. From Dublin, their journey takes them westward through Galway and into the rugged wildness of Connemara. Along the way, they observe the lingering scars of the Great Famine: ruined estates once owned by ancient families like the Martins of Ballinahinch, tracts of uncultivated bogland, and a population depleted by hardship and emigration. Yet alongside these somber realities, they find immense natural beauty and vibrant local traditions, particularly among the uniquely dressed fisherfolk of the Claddagh.

Continuing their route, the travelers pause at Kylemore Lake, where a meal of lobster inspires light philosophical musings before Frank decides to try his hand at salmon fishing. When his imported fly-books prove useless, their host ties a custom fly on the spot, illustrating the resourcefulness of local guides. Travel in the provinces brings frequent comedy, from unreliable hotel plumbing and mirrors made of water tubs to debates over regional history, religion, and the absent landlords whose neglect damaged the countryside.

Heading south toward Limerick and the famous lakes of Killarney, the narrator immerses himself in the scenery, taking in cascading waterfalls, dark grey stone cliffs, and lush foliage. Boatmen share local lore about submerged palaces and legendary kings, while the travelers mistakenly adorn their hats with common trefoil, believing it to be genuine shamrock. At each stop, whether transcribing verse in a cozy hotel corner or climbing the hollow ruin of Blarney Castle to kiss the celebrated stone, the narrator maintains an upbeat, curious outlook.

The final leg takes them through Kenmare and Glengarriff to Cork. They pass quiet mountain roads where groups of well-dressed peasants travel to funerals and children trail the car. At Inchigeela, they inspect local schools, watch constables polishing carbines, and admire a pig resting by a stream. After enjoying a lively theatrical performance in Cork and reconnecting with university friends, the travelers return to Dublin and board the steamboat for home. The journey closes with a affectionate farewell to Ireland, expressing hope for its future prosperity.

How It Unfolds

The voyage begins Crossing from London to Dublin, the travelers arrive at Kingstown quay and get their first taste of local transport on a jostling outside car. They navigate the city with high spirits, taking in local landmarks while adjusting to the unique pace of Irish life.

Into the western wilds Journeying from Galway to Oughterard and into Connamara, the companions observe vast boglands and the tragic aftermath of recent famine. They admire the traditional red petticoats of the Claddagh fisherwomen and marvel at the grand, unfulfilled potential of the countryside.

Angling at Kylemore Stopping for lunch by Kylemore Lake, the travelers consult their host after finding their standard fly-books unfit for local waters. The innkeeper craftily ties a fresh fly from silk and feathers, allowing Frank to pursue salmon in the deep lake.

Lakes and legends of Killarney Gliding along the Long Range and visiting Innisfallen, the travelers listen to boatmen weave folklore about submerged castles while admiring the steep cliffs and rich foliage. A humorous misadventure with imitation shamrock briefly dampens their pride.

Ascending Blarney Castle Climbing the narrow, ruined staircase of Blarney Castle, the narrator views the surrounding meadows before locating the accessible granite stone. He reflects on the legend of eloquence promised to those who brave the kiss.

Homeward bound from Dublin After exploring the streets and theaters of Cork, the travelers return to Dublin to catch the steamboat. Looking back at the bay, they offer a heartfelt wish for Ireland's well-being as their short tour concludes.

The People

The narrator travels alongside his friend Frank, an energetic young man driven by a desire for outdoor sport and lighthearted adventure. Frank wants nothing more than to catch a trophy salmon or joke with fellow travelers, yet his impulsive nature often leads to broken water tubs or light teasing from locals.

Throughout their trek, the duo meets a wide variety of local residents who shape their understanding of the country. Innkeepers like Mr. Duncan at Kylemore step in to solve practical dilemmas with steady ingenuity, expertly crafting fishing tackle when commercial supplies fail.

Car drivers and boatmen act as informal guides and storytellers; they want to entertain their passengers, secure a modest tip, and keep traditional lore alive, though their colorful tales of submerged kings are received with fond skepticism.

Peasant women across Connemara and the western districts navigate severe economic hardship while maintaining a quiet dignity, their striking traditional clothing leaving a lasting impression on the visitors.

Finally, fellow English travelers and university friends like Hoare and Dibdin cross their path, each seeking diversion, fresh scenery, or a bit of harmless spectacle before returning to their regular lives in England.

In Its Own Voice

“By suffering worn and weary, But beautiful as some fair angel yet.”

The author selects this poetic verse at the outset to capture the haunting resilience and enduring beauty of the Irish landscape and its people.

“gaiety becomes an undergraduate as much as gaiters a Dean”

In his preface, the author defends the lighthearted tone of his youth, arguing that cheerful humor is entirely natural for a young traveler.

“the most becoming dress in all the world is that of a peasant girl of Connamara.”

Observing the bright red skirts and draped cloaks in the Claddagh market, the narrator praises traditional rural attire over artificial contemporary fashions.

What It's Really About

Beneath its bright surface and student humor, the book examines the social and physical condition of Ireland during the mid-nineteenth century. It contrasts the country's immense natural beauty with the grim realities of post-famine depopulation, agricultural neglect, and absentee landlordism.

The text addresses the economic potential of the land, advocating for thoughtful investment, drainage of boglands, and practical industry rather than political division or ongoing neglect. It also explores the friction between Victorian tourist expectations and the actual conditions of rural travel, contrasting idealized romantic landscapes with simple village life. Ultimately, the narrative argues for mutual respect and understanding between England and Ireland, using shared humor and honest observation to build a bridge across cultural divides.

Why Read It Today

Modern readers will appreciate this volume as an engaging time capsule of Victorian travel writing that balances light satire with genuine empathy. The narrative flows with an easy, conversational rhythm, enriched by vivid descriptions of western Ireland's lakes, mountains, and coastal villages before modern development reshaped them.

Readers should be prepared for nineteenth-century stylistic elements, including frequent classical quotations, literary allusions, and romanticized descriptions of local life. The author's view of Irish social issues reflects the paternalistic perspectives of his era and class, yet his observations are consistently marked by goodwill rather than condescension.

What remains most memorable is the book's vibrant energy—the pleasure of open-air travel, the amusing mishaps of nineteenth-century inns, and a deep, enduring appreciation for the Irish landscape. It is an ideal pick for readers interested in travel history, Victorian literature, or the cultural landscape of historic Ireland.