A Record of Buddhistic Kingdoms: Being an account by the Chinese monk Fa-hsien of travels in India and Ceylon (A.D. 399-414) in search of the Buddhist books of discipline

In Short

This narrative chronicles the arduous journey of the monk Faxian, who set out from China in 399 A.D. to locate original Buddhist scriptures in India and Ceylon. Driven by a desire to preserve the true "books of discipline," he trekked through harsh deserts, crossed the high Himalayas, and traveled by sea, eventually returning home fifteen years later. The book serves as both a spiritual travelogue and a vital historical record, offering a rare, firsthand view of the societies, customs, and religious landscapes of ancient South and Central Asia.

The Story

The journey begins in the year 399, when Faxian and a small company of companions depart from Chang'an. Their goal is the "Middle Kingdom"—the cradle of Buddhism—where they hope to secure authentic manuscripts for the benefit of their fellow monks in China. The initial leg of their trek is a harrowing test of survival. They navigate barren, rugged terrain, surviving on limited provisions and enduring a climate that varies from extreme heat to glacial mountain passes. Along the way, they encounter various kingdoms where the Buddhist faith is already firmly rooted, though often practiced in ways that differ from their own.

As they push into northern India, the landscape becomes more vibrant and the religious sites more prominent. Faxian’s account shifts from a survival story to a detailed catalog of sacred geography. He visits the legendary locations associated with the Buddha’s life—the site of his birth at Lumbini, the forest where he attained enlightenment under the Bodhi tree, and the Deer Park where he first preached. Each location is described with a mix of reverence and careful observation, noting the monasteries, the monks who inhabit them, and the miraculous traces—shadows on rock walls or footprints in stone—that mark the Buddha’s presence.

Throughout his travels, Faxian is not merely a sightseer; he is an active participant in the religious life of these regions. He stays in monasteries, observes the strict codes of the resident monks, and engages with the local cultures. He documents the social order, noting the peaceful nature of the "Middle Kingdom," where the king governs without the use of capital punishment and the people abstain from killing living creatures. Yet, he also witnesses the separation of the marginalized Chandalas, who live apart from the rest of society, highlighting the complex social stratification of the time.

After spending years in India, Faxian travels to the island of Ceylon. There, he deepens his study of the faith, collecting more texts and icons. His return journey proves to be just as perilous as his outward trek. He boards a merchant ship to sail back to China, but the vessel is battered by fierce storms, forcing the crew to jettison their cargo to save the ship. After a long, terrifying voyage, he eventually lands on the coast of Shandong. He concludes his life’s work by transcribing his findings and reflecting on the immense distance he has covered, both physically and spiritually, to bring these teachings to his people.

How It Unfolds

The voyage begins. Driven by a profound sense of lack, the monk and his companions leave the safety of China to cross the daunting Onion Range and the vast, uninhabited deserts.

The path of the Buddha. Upon reaching northern India, the narrative transitions to a sequence of visits to the holy sites where the Buddha was born, achieved wisdom, and died.

Life in the monasteries. Faxian settles into the rhythm of the religious communities, documenting the daily routines, the generosity of the local kings, and the strict adherence to the rules of the discipline.

The social mirror. The account pauses to observe the broader culture of the Middle Kingdom, noting the absence of severe laws and the curious practice of using cowries for trade.

The island of Ceylon. The journey extends to the south, where the monk gathers further wisdom and artifacts before facing the dangers of the open sea.

The final return. The book concludes with the harrowing maritime journey back to China, capturing the relief of the monk as he finally sets foot on his native soil after years of total isolation.

The People

Faxian is the central figure: a man of deep, quiet resolve. His primary motivation is the preservation of the "Law"—the Buddhist books of discipline—which he perceives to be lacking or poorly represented in his home land. He is a persistent observer, never allowing the extreme suffering of his journey to distract him from his duty to record the world as he sees it.

The monks he meets are his essential counterparts. They are his hosts, his teachers, and the living vessels of the knowledge he seeks. In these figures, Faxian sees the standard of his own life: men who have "quitted their families" to dedicate themselves entirely to meditation and the study of the sutras. They offer him shelter and food, acting as the bridge between his quest and the ancient reality of the Buddha’s teachings.

The kings who populate the narrative serve as protectors of the faith. Figures like the unnamed ruler of the Middle Kingdom, who governs with mercy, or the later kings of Ceylon, who build elaborate monasteries, reflect the ideal of a society centered on Buddhist virtue. They are the patrons who ensure the survival of the relics, ensuring that the physical markers of the religion—the topes and the vihâras—remain for future generations.

In Its Own Voice

"The difficulties which they encountered in crossing the streams and on their route, and the sufferings which they endured, were unparalleled in human experience, but in the course of a month and five days they succeeded in reaching Yu-teen."

This passage describes the sheer physical exhaustion and danger the monks faced while crossing the desolate regions of Central Asia.

"If they want to go, they go; if they want to stay on, they stay."

This quote highlights the remarkably free and peaceful nature of the Middle Kingdom as observed by the traveler.

What It's Really About

At its core, the book is about the transmission of truth across distance and time. It explores how a physical journey—the act of walking thousands of miles—functions as a spiritual prerequisite for understanding. Faxian is not just looking for books; he is looking for a connection to a past that he feels is slipping away. The text grapples with the question of how to maintain the purity of a religion when it is thousands of miles from its birthplace. It is a testament to the belief that the effort of the pilgrim is inseparable from the holiness of the destination.

Why Read It Today

Readers who enjoy historical travelogues or the history of religion will find this a fascinating, grounded account. It does not possess the polished narrative flair of a modern novel; rather, it has the stark, unvarnished quality of a diary kept in the face of death. You will experience the grit of the desert and the hushed atmosphere of ancient monasteries.

There are, however, difficulties. The text is dense with names and locations that may be unfamiliar to the modern reader, and it occasionally drifts into the recording of miraculous legends that reflect the worldview of the fourth century. Some of these accounts, such as the stories of spirits and demons, may strike a modern reader as fantastical or even grotesque. Furthermore, the prose is straightforward and occasionally dry, serving as a record rather than a dramatic retelling. Yet, for those who value the authentic voice of a historical witness, the book offers an unparalleled look into a vanished world. What stays with you is the sheer, quiet grit of a man who traveled into the unknown simply because he believed that the words he was seeking were worth the risk of his life.