A Ride on Horseback to Florence Through France and Switzerland. Vol. 2 of 2: Described in a Series of Letters by a Lady

In Short

This narrative recounts the second leg of an ambitious equestrian journey through Switzerland, northern Italy, and France. Traveling with her companion and their resilient mounts, Fanny and Grizzle, the author navigates washed-out mountain roads, dangerous weather, and variable accommodations. Along the route, she balances practical observations of daily travel with historical commentary on the castles, regional conflicts, and local legends of the places she passes. Her record endures as a vivid snapshot of 19th-century overland travel, offering modern readers an unvarnished view of European transit before the advent of modern infrastructure.

The Story

The journey resumes in Switzerland with visits to historical sites like the Castle of Chillon. Navigating the Swiss cantons, the party observes the stark contrasts between Protestant and Catholic regions, noting the distinct local laws, architecture, and historical rivalries that define each area. Mountain travel quickly presents physical challenges. Torrential rains turn roads into treacherous tracks, forcing the travelers to lead their horses down steep, broken sheep-paths and across temporary wooden bridges built high above rushing torrents.

Crossing into the high passes, the party encounters severe destruction caused by the overflowing Rhone. At Sierre and through the Simplon region, entire sections of the causeway have been swept away by flooding, requiring workers to guide the horses through deep, rushing water. A violent storm damages the Gorge of Gondo, forcing the travelers to navigate dangerous gaps where galleries and bridges have collapsed. They seek shelter in primitive, drafty mountain inns like the one at Isella, dealing with uncooperative hosts, unpalatable meals, and structurally unsound rooms while contemplating how to cross the damaged terrain ahead.

Upon descending into Italy, the group travels past the scenic shores of Lake Maggiore and through towns such as Arona and Milan. The writer contrasts the natural elegance of the Italian lakes and the artistic treasures of Florentine galleries with the ongoing hazards of dark, unlit roads and unreliable local directions. They visit iconic structures, including the Duomo of Milan and the grand palaces of Florence, before turning back north toward France.

The return journey through the Apennines and over the Alpine passes toward Lanslebourg introduces severe cold, snowdrifts, and howling winds. Mountain blizzards make keeping a footing uncertain for both riders and horses. Reaching France, the party faces persistent autumn rains, muddy roads cluttered with felled trees, and unheated, smoky inns. The travel remains difficult all the way through towns like Sens and Melun, until they finally complete their long journey in Paris.

How It Unfolds

Navigating the Swiss cantons The travelers explore historical landmarks such as the Castle of Chillon and the ruins of Gruyères. They contend with continuous Swiss rain while staying in local pensions, spending their evenings confined indoors as fog fills the valleys.

Crossing the flooded passes Reaching the Upper Valais, the group finds the main roads completely destroyed by the overflowing Rhone. They are forced to lead their horses, Fanny and Grizzle, through shoulder-deep torrents and over unstable, unrailed wooden bridges under the guidance of local road workers.

Traversing Gondo and Isella A severe mountain storm washes out key bridges and galleries near the Gorge of Gondo. The party endures a night in a filthy, unsafe inn at Isella, dealing with an hostile landlady and cold drafty quarters before finding a way over the mountain path.

Descending into the Italian plains The route clears as they ride along Lake Maggiore, passing Arona and heading toward Milan and Florence. Here, the author examines classical art collections, historic cathedrals, and formal gardens, despite the persistent hazards of night travel on unlit Italian roads.

Facing the winter blizzards Turning back toward France, the travelers ascend toward Lanslebourg amidst heavy snow and icy winds. The horses struggle against violent gusts on narrow mountain ledges before descending into drafty inns where smoke fills the living quarters.

The long road to Paris The final leg across France presents unrelenting rain, ruined felt hats, loose horseshoes, and poor meals in roadside inns. The party moves slowly through Pont-sur-Yonne and Melun, ultimately concluding their arduous equestrian expedition upon arrival in Paris.

The People

The Writer The narrator and primary chronicler of the expedition. She wants to complete her demanding journey across Europe on horseback while recording the history, landscapes, and customs of every region she visits. Confronted by flooded rivers, broken roads, severe storms, and precarious accommodations, she remains resilient, practical, and determined to press forward despite constant physical discomfort.

D—— The author’s travel companion. He assists in managing the logistics of the journey, taking charge during dangerous conditions by dismounting to lead his horse ahead of Fanny along unlit, broken roads and through dark, treacherous mountain passes.

Fanny The author’s primary horse. Capable and sure-footed, Fanny carries her rider over dangerous sheep-tracks and through flooded rivers. However, she frequently tests her handler by starting at unrailed heights, refusing deep water, and occasionally breaking her tether to eat entire day's rations of oats.

Grizzle The second horse of the expedition. Grizzle follows behind Fanny through river crossings and icy mountain tracks, periodically losing shoes on rough terrain and requiring careful handling along narrow ledges.

In Its Own Voice

“So seeing no further information likely, we led the horses down this stone ladder in search of the new road, returning to the village which it skirts without entering...”

The author describes the practical realities of finding their way across broken Swiss paths when local directions offer little guidance.

“...there indeed was the torrent, roaring below like a wild beast before his fatal bound, and not only the torrent, but no bridge, it had been swept away...”

Reflecting on an arduous evening at Isella, the author records the bleak conditions facing travelers stranded by severe floodwaters.

“The snow, hail and wind have as yet known no intermission; the bad air arrives under the door and the icy wind in at the window.”

During the ascent toward Lanslebourg, the author notes the uncomfortable conditions of mountain inns during severe autumn weather.

What It's Really About

Beneath the daily log of miles covered and historical sites visited, the book examines the unpredictable realities of early 19th-century travel. It explores the tension between human infrastructure and the unyielding power of nature, as fragile roads, wooden bridges, and stone causeways are repeatedly swept away by Alpine torrents.

The narrative also highlights the sharp cultural, religious, and economic contrasts dividing the European regions of the era. By moving slowly across borders on horseback rather than using public coaches, the author provides an unvarnished look at local governance, regional poverty, and the varying standard of hospitality offered to outsiders. Ultimately, the work celebrates female autonomy, physical endurance, and intellectual curiosity at a time when undertaking such a journey independently was rare.

Why Read It Today

Readers who appreciate authentic travel history, early mountaineering accounts, and vivid period observations will find much to admire in this account. Reading it feels like sitting alongside an exceptionally observant, unpretentious traveler who views great hardships with dry wit and calm determination.

The narrative avoids dramatic exaggeration, relying instead on sharp details—the smell of woodsmoke in drafty rooms, the sound of horses paws in mountain streams, and the frustration of dealing with unhelpful hosts.

Modern readers should be prepared for period-typical pacing, including extended digressions into regional political history, local legends, and detailed descriptions of classical art and architecture. The prose occasionally includes un-translated French and Italian phrases, reflecting the educational background of its era.

What remains with the reader is the sheer grit of the journey. The image of a small party guiding their tired mounts over collapsed mountain ledges in the dark offers a compelling reminder of what traveling across Europe required before modern transportation reshaped the landscape.