A Short Treatise on Head Wear, Ancient and Modern

In Short

This book serves as a historical overview of how humanity has covered its heads, tracing the development of caps, helmets, and hats from the earliest civilizations to the late 19th century. It examines the functional, religious, and political significance of headgear, explaining how specific styles came to signify rank, occupation, and identity. While it touches upon ancient myths and global traditions, the narrative ultimately pivots to a celebration of the American hat industry, specifically documenting the rise of the prominent firm Dunlap & Co.

The Story

The narrative begins with a meditation on the hat as humanity’s most conspicuous adornment, positing that while nature provided hair, mankind insisted on artificial supplementation. The author establishes the hat as a foundational tool of social hierarchy, noting that history has long used the head to distinguish the monarch by a crown, the cardinal by a red hat, or the fool by bells. The early chapters weave together myth and archaeological observation, such as the legendary discovery of felt by St. Clement, who supposedly created the fabric by stuffing loose wool into his sandals to soothe his bruised feet.

As the history progresses, the text surveys the headwear of various global cultures. It contrasts the ornate, symbolic caps of ancient Egyptian priests with the rigid, utilitarian head-coverings of Eastern nations, such as the umbrella-like hats of China and the complex, layered turbans of Arabia. The author illustrates how headgear functioned as a tool of social control; for instance, the Ottoman Sultan’s decree mandating the red fez caused significant civil unrest, highlighting how deeply tied headwear was to the cultural and religious identity of a people.

The focus shifts to the West, tracing the lineage of the modern hat back to the Greek pileus and the Roman practice of going bareheaded except during sacred rites. The narrative details how hats evolved from purely protective garments into sophisticated indicators of fashion and class. In France, the author observes the influence of royal decree on style, noting how King Francis I encouraged velvet caps to discourage a monk-like appearance among his courtiers. In England, the story moves through the centuries, noting the peculiar, steeple-crowned hats of the Elizabethan era, the somber caps of the Puritans, and the shift toward the cocked hats synonymous with American revolutionary heroes like Washington.

The final arc of the book transitions from historical survey to modern industry. It posits that the nineteenth century brought a refinement in taste, moving away from gaudy jewels and feathers toward the sober, substantial hats of the modern gentleman. This trajectory culminates in a detailed account of the Dunlap & Co. firm. By framing their success as the pinnacle of this long evolution, the author positions the American-made felt hat as the ultimate achievement in a tradition spanning from the ancient world to the industrial success of 1885.

How It Unfolds

The necessity of coverage The author introduces the hat as an essential human invention, noting that its development was driven by a universal desire to display status and protect the head from the elements.

Ancient origins and legends The text recounts the foundational myths of headwear, such as the discovery of felting by St. Clement, alongside descriptions of Greek and Roman practices.

Global traditions and hierarchies The narrative examines the diverse headgear of the East, detailing the social significance of turbans, the cultural weight of the fez, and the specific laws governing who could wear what in various societies.

The evolution of Western fashion The book tracks the progression of European styles, from the early hoods and caps of the medieval period to the extravagant, rapidly changing fashions of the Elizabethan era.

The American transition The narrative moves into the colonial and revolutionary periods, highlighting the significance of the cocked hat and the later adoption of styles like the Kossuth hat in the United States.

Industry and commercial triumph The concluding section shifts from history to the present, focusing on the growth of the Dunlap & Co. firm as a testament to the sophistication and success of the American hat manufacturing industry.

The People

The figures in this text are often archetypes or historical symbols rather than individuals with internal struggles. St. Clement appears as a humble, miracle-working figure whose weariness leads to the discovery of felt, serving as the patron saint of the hatter’s craft. Figures like Julius Caesar represent the vanity of power, with the author noting his desire for a laurel crown to conceal his baldness, demonstrating how even the most powerful men used headwear as a psychological shield. The Ottoman Sultan stands in for the forces of institutional change, his imposition of the red fez creating a clash between state authority and tradition. Finally, Robert Dunlap emerges as a modern protagonist—a visionary businessman who, despite predictions of failure, succeeds through quality and enterprise. He represents the transition of the hat from a historical curiosity to a mark of professional success, moving from a small shop on Broadway to becoming the preeminent hatter of his time.

In Its Own Voice

"Nature, in her bounty, seems to have provided in part against the necessity of the hat, by giving to the head a thick and abundant covering of hair, but, instead of considering this as an indication that the head required no other protection, mankind seems rather to have regarded it as a hint to keep this most important part of the body well covered."

This passage introduces the author's central premise that the hat is an inherent, albeit artificial, necessity of human civilization.

"A writer of that time describes them thus: 'They wear them sharpe on the crowne, peaking up like the speare or shaft of a steeple, standing a quarter of a yard above the crowne of the head.'"

The author quotes a contemporary Elizabethan critic to illustrate the absurdity and rapid turnover of fashion in that era.

What It's Really About

The book explores the interplay between individual identity and societal expectation. It argues that the hat is never merely a covering; it is a visual language that communicates rank, religion, and political allegiance. The underlying question is how much of our public self is constructed through such adornments. By cataloging the rigidity of ancient laws regarding headwear alongside the rapid shifts of modern fashion, the author suggests that while specific styles fade, the human impulse to signal one's place in the world through external symbols remains constant. The text implicitly argues that a "good" hat is an essential component of a civilized life, serving as a reflection of the wearer’s internal character and moral standing.

Why Read It Today

Readers with an interest in the history of fashion, material culture, or the evolution of social markers will find this a charming, if opinionated, window into the Victorian mindset. The writing is warm and confident, though the reader should be prepared for the author’s occasionally rigid class-consciousness; the assertion that a man’s hat reveals his "dwarfed nature" is a product of its time. The book is not an exhaustive scholarly study, but rather a curated look at headwear that reflects the era's pride in industrial progress. Because it concludes with a detailed history of a specific firm, it functions as both a historical overview and a piece of period advertising, providing a unique look at how businesses marketed themselves in the late 19th century. Those who enjoy learning how ancient customs inform modern habits—such as the practice of doffing one’s hat—will find much to enjoy. It is a quick, light read that captures the significance of an object that has largely vanished from the center of modern daily attire, serving as a gentle reminder of the sartorial standards of a bygone age.