Across the Vatna Jökull

In Short

This narrative chronicles a bold 1876 expedition across the Vatna Jökull, a vast and then-largely uncharted glacial wilderness in Iceland. Driven by a desire to map the interior and investigate volcanic activity, the explorer organizes a team of local farmers to navigate extreme weather, shifting ice, and volcanic deserts. The book stands as a testament to the era’s spirit of geographic discovery, blending rugged field observations with profound respect for the Icelandic landscape and the resilient, hospitable people who made the ambitious journey possible.

The Story

The expedition begins with meticulous preparation in the southern reaches of Iceland. Recruiting a team of local farmers—men characterized by their toughness and good-natured resolve—the author arranges for supplies to be carried to the north while the core group attempts the crossing of the Vatna Jökull. The journey is immediately met with the brutal realities of Icelandic geography: intense heat in the lowlands followed by the biting, unpredictable cold of the glacial plateau.

As they ascend, the environment shifts from fertile farmland to a surreal world of perlite, obsidian, and deep, snow-filled craters. The group encounters constant setbacks, including severe fog, blinding sleet, and winds that threaten to bury them in their makeshift shelter. There are moments of intense hardship, where the party must wait out storms in holes dug into the snow, subsisting on pemmican and enduring the physical toll of trekking across softening, treacherous crusts. The struggle for survival is palpable; at one point, the author faces the terrifying prospect of frozen feet, forcing the team to press forward despite the encroaching storm.

Upon descending from the plateau, the expedition enters a "howling wilderness" of volcanic sand and lava. They navigate toward the Dyngjufjöll mountains to examine the Öskjugjá, or "chasm of the oval casket." The description of this crater, with its booming stony avalanches and shifting, steaming vents, captures a landscape in constant, violent flux. The author’s focus remains sharp, balancing scientific curiosity about sulphur deposits and seismic activity with the sheer exhaustion of traveling through a landscape that destroys foot-gear and demands constant vigilance.

The arc of the journey takes the party to the northern settlements, where they find a degree of respite in the hospitality of local farmers. The author’s work continues even here, as he investigates sulphur mines and observes the aftermath of recent volcanic eruptions. By the time the expedition concludes, the author has successfully mapped significant portions of the previously unknown interior. The final chapters see the explorer reflecting on his accomplishment with quiet pride, contrasting his success against the skepticism of professional peers. He departs Iceland with a deep, lingering affection for the rugged "Northernland," having fulfilled his quest to uncover the secrets hidden within its frozen, volcanic casket.

How It Unfolds

The planning phase The author recruits local farmers and organizes the logistics of the crossing, focusing on the production of pemmican and the creation of specialized sleighs. These preparations emphasize the necessity of local knowledge and the immense physical labor required to mobilize a small team for a multi-week trek across remote terrain.

The mountain ascent The team moves from the southern farms toward the base of the Jökull, testing the terrain and adjusting to the harsh conditions. This stage introduces the group to the specific challenges of the region, where every mile involves negotiating basaltic cliffs and glacial slopes.

The glacial struggle Trapped by a ferocious storm on the plateau, the party spends days in a state of suspended animation, buried in snow and hoping for a freeze to harden the surface. These chapters detail the harrowing reality of Arctic travel, where the weather dictates every decision and the survival of the men hangs in the balance.

The volcanic exploration Upon crossing the ice, the focus shifts to the geological anomalies of the northern plains, specifically the crater of the Öskjugjá. The author carefully documents the formation of lava flows and steaming fumeroles, providing a vivid picture of a landscape being actively reshaped by fire.

The conclusion The journey winds down in the northern sulphur districts, where the author meets other contemporary explorers before departing for home. The narrative concludes with a reflective look at the landscape and a firm sense of achievement in having successfully navigated one of the most desolate regions on Earth.

The People

The author, an ambitious and determined member of the Alpine Club, serves as the primary lens for the journey. He is defined by his scientific curiosity and his refusal to be deterred by the doubts of critics. His success is contingent upon his ability to listen to his team, specifically Paul, a reliable local guide who bridges the gap between the explorer and the Icelandic landscape. Paul’s connections—his "kindred nearly all over the island"—provide the party with essential resources and local knowledge. Other figures, such as the tough Eyólfur and the various farmers they encounter, represent the resilient character of the Icelandic people. These men are not merely hired labor; they are essential partners whose skill and local intuition often prove more valuable than the author’s imported equipment. Throughout the journey, the author’s interactions with these individuals evolve from formal arrangements into genuine, warm friendships, leaving him with an enduring respect for their endurance and hospitality.

In Its Own Voice

"Night brought no improvement in the weather; and a somewhat remarkable scene presented itself of six men lying in a hole in the snow, 4250 feet above the sea-level, in Iceland, all hoping for a frost--but no frost came, and morning found us in the same position."

This moment captures the static, desperate nature of their survival during a mountain storm.

"I came to your rugged and barren shores an enthusiastic traveller, anxious and resolved to seek out the wonderful things hidden in your frozen casket; and having enjoyed your simple and honest hospitalities and gratified my ambitious curiosity, I must now bid you adieu."

The author delivers this farewell to the landscape, balancing his scientific mission with a deep, heartfelt appreciation for the country.

What It's Really About

The book explores the interplay between human ambition and the indifferent power of nature. It argues that the "unknown" is not merely a geographic blank space, but a complex, living system of ice and fire that demands respect rather than conquest. Beneath the technical descriptions of geology and travel, the text asks what it means to be an explorer—whether it is about personal glory or the humble accumulation of knowledge. The book posits that the true measure of such a journey is not just the mapping of coordinates, but the human connections forged in the face of extreme hardship. It is a quiet study of endurance, suggesting that the most desolate landscapes are often those that reveal the most about the tenacity of the human spirit.

Why Read It Today

Readers who enjoy the classic literature of exploration will find this a compelling, honest account. It lacks the modern flair for dramatic hyperbole, instead offering a steady, observant look at a world that has since been tamed by technology. The experience of reading it is similar to walking through a wind-swept, historical gallery; the prose is formal yet warm, peppered with the specific, archaic vocabulary of the 1870s and Icelandic place names that evoke a sense of profound distance.

Modern readers should be prepared for the book’s singular focus on geological and logistical detail. It is not a fast-paced thriller, but rather a methodical, day-by-day record of grit. Some may find the Victorian-era attitudes toward the landscape—viewing it as both a "pitiless waste" and a "frozen casket"—to be a fascinating relic of a time when the world still held vast, uncharted secrets. What stays with you long after closing the book is not just the science of the glaciers or the heat of the volcanoes, but the quiet, enduring image of a small group of men huddled in the snow, bound together by the singular, human impulse to see what lies over the next horizon.