After Waterloo: Reminiscences of European Travel 1815-1819

In Short

This vivid set of epistolary memoirs details Major William Edward Frye’s travels across France, Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, and Italy from 1815 to 1819. Traversing a continent recovering from decades of war, Frye scrutinizes local politics, theater, art, and the everyday lives of the people he encounters. As an open-minded observer with strong liberal leanings, he consistently favors republican ideals over restored monarchies. His accounts survived in manuscript form for half a century before their eventual publication, enduring as a remarkably candid portrait of post-Napoleonic Europe that bridges military history, cultural critique, and classic travel writing.

The Story

Major William Edward Frye sets out across Europe shortly after the Battle of Waterloo, documenting his travels through detailed letters addressed to an unnamed correspondent. Moving through Belgium and the Rhineland, Frye records the immediate aftermath of the Napoleonic Wars. He pays close attention to the moods of ordinary citizens, noting widespread resentment toward quartered Prussian troops, whose conduct he finds vindictive and oppressive compared to the previous French administration.

Continuing into Germany, Frye explores cities like Frankfurt, visiting historical sites such as the Römer where Holy Roman Emperors were once elected. He delights in the cultural life of every stopping point, frequently attending theatrical performances, evaluating actors, and commenting on the social customs of the places he visits. In France, he inspects the Tuileries Palace and marvels at the Arc du Carrousel in Paris, contemplating the turbulent history of the four ancient bronze horses brought from Venice to decorate the arch before their ultimate restoration to Italy.

Crossing into Switzerland and Italy, Frye finds himself in his element. He travels over the Simplon Pass into Milan alongside Chevalier Zadera, passing the time through literary discussions of Dante, Alfieri, and Ariosto. In the Canton de Vaud, he praises the democratic governance of the Swiss citizens and their warm hospitality toward political exiles banished from post-Restoration France. Frye seeks out these proscribed French revolutionaries, engaging in deep conversations about constitutional law, hereditary peerages, and the principles of liberty.

In Italy, Frye explores battlefields, ancient ruins, and art treasures. He rides out to the field of Marengo near Alexandria, imagining Napoleon directing his forces during the crucial moments of victory. In Florence, he inspects unfinished cathedral façades and contemplates Canova’s monument to Vittorio Alfieri in the Church of Santa Croce. Moving south to Rome, he wanders through the ancient ruins of the Forum, admiring classical architecture and grand public fountains like the Trevi and Paolina. His journey takes him to the dangerous slopes of Mount Vesuvius, where he and a French companion narrowly avoid disaster while climbing the active volcano during an eruption.

From the coastal town of Leghorn, where he reflects on the tragic history of exiled Spanish Jews and visits the grave of Tobias Smollett, Frye turns north toward Bern, Venice, and Munich. He journeys down the Isar and Danube rivers to Vienna aboard a massive wooden freight raft, sharing a cabin with Austrian and Polish officers. Traveling through Prague and Saxony, he observes the gentle manners of the Saxon people and watches returning Russian troops evacuate France. Throughout his entire grand tour, Frye maintains his inquisitive stance, offering a comprehensive, unvarnished look at a continent in structural transition.

How It Unfolds

Outrage in the Belgian countryside In May 1815, Frye travels through Genappe and Namur, recording complaints from local villagers regarding the harsh behavior of quartered Prussian soldiers. He notes that the peasantry prefers French rule over the exacting demands and foreign tongue of their new occupiers.

Cultural immersion in the German states Reaching Aix-la-Chapelle and Frankfurt, Frye inspects civic architecture, historical paintings, and town monuments. He enjoys local hospitality, visits literary institutions, and marvels at the bustling commercial energy along the River Main.

Reflections in post-war Paris Frye visits the Tuileries and the Arc du Carrousel, contemplating the shifting fortunes of empires through the historic travels of the bronze horses of San Marco. He attends classical French theater, assessing the performances of prominent actors in plays by Racine, Molière, and Voltaire.

Crossing the Alps into Italy Traveling alongside Chevalier Zadera, Frye crosses the Simplon Pass to Milan. He praises the industrious nature of the Savoyard people while condemning the political and religious burdens imposed on them by monarchical rule.

Meeting the exiled conventionnels Returning to Lausanne, Frye forms acquaintances with banished French conventionnels like Lamarque, Espinassy, and Bordas. They hold lively discussions on republican principles, the flaws of hereditary peerages, and the political future of Europe.

Wandering among Roman ruins and Italian fountains In Rome, Frye surveys classical monuments, including the Forum, the Arch of Titus, and the great fountains of Trevi and Paolina. He reflects on the passage of time as cattle graze where ancient statesmen once spoke.

Ascending the fiery slopes of Vesuvius Ignoring the warnings of their guide, Frye and a French companion climb the active cone of Mount Vesuvius at dawn. They survive intense heat, scorched footwear, and suffocating blasts of fire and smoke to peer directly into the crater.

Rafting down the Danube to Vienna Frye joins Polish and Austrian companions on a large timber raft floating from Munich down the Isar and Danube to Vienna. He enjoys the unique rhythm of river travel, stopping daily at local inns before arriving in the Austrian capital.

The People

• Major William Edward Frye: The author and protagonist, an inquisitive British officer whose professional duties and love of travel have taken him across the globe. He seeks out theater, classical art, and political discourse, consistently displaying a strong preference for republican liberty over absolute monarchy.
• Mlle Georges: A prominent French tragedy actress whose commanding stage presence and dramatic performances in plays like Iphigénie draw detailed praise and critical analysis from Frye.
• Mlle Georges the younger: The seventeen-year-old sister of the famous actress, who makes her theatrical debut in Iphigénie and later tackles the demanding lead role in Voltaire's Zaïre.
• Chevalier Zadera: An agreeable Italian traveling companion who shares Frye’s love of literature. He travels with Frye from Geneva to Milan, exchanging insights on Italian poets and local society.
• Monsieur Lamarque: An able French political figure and former National Convention commissioner banished to Switzerland, who engages Frye in deep debates regarding the dangers of an hereditary peerage.
• General Espinassy: An upright French engineer officer and classical scholar living in exile in Lausanne, respected by Frye for his unyielding adherence to republican principles.
• M. Bordas: A lively, companionable seventy-year-old French exile who famously challenged Napoleon on the Champ de Mai to govern as a free sovereign, retaining his spirited character in Swiss banishment.
• Salvatore: A cautious Neapolitan guide at Mount Vesuvius who strongly warns Frye and his companion against attempting a perilous ascent of the erupting volcanic cone.
• R---- D----: Frye’s intrepid French companion on Vesuvius, whose fearlessness drives the duo to climb the burning mountain despite the severe danger of falling cinders and hot ash.

In Its Own Voice

"The double yoke of priestcraft and military despotism presses hard upon the unhappy Savoyard and wrings from him his hard-earned pittance, while no people are better off than the Vaudois; yet the Savoyards are to the full as deserving of liberty as the Swiss."

— Frye contrasts the political oppression in Sardinia-governed Savoy with the prosperity and freedom enjoyed in the democratic Canton de Vaud.

"On issuing from the Arch of Titus we found ourselves in the Forum, now the Campo Vaccino: so that cattle now low where statesmen and orators harangued, and lazy priests in procession tread on the sacred dust of heroes."

— Reflecting on the decay of ancient Rome, Frye observes the dramatic transformation of the historic Forum into a common cattle pasture.

"My shoes were sadly burnt, my stockings singed and my feet scorched; my friend was less fortunate, for he tumbled down with his hands on a vein of red hot cinders and burned them terribly."

— Describing the hazardous climb up the crater of Mount Vesuvius alongside his companion amidst falling ash and fiery cinders.

What It's Really About

Beneath its scenic travel descriptions and theatrical reviews, After Waterloo is an interrogation of political legitimacy and freedom in post-Napoleonic Europe. Frye evaluates every society he visits through the lens of individual liberty, administrative fairness, and cultural vitality. He repeatedly contrasts the autocratic restored monarchies—with their standing armies, censorship, and religious authority—against the civic pride and prosperity of democratic enclaves like the Canton de Vaud.

The text also wrestles with the complex legacy of Napoleon Bonaparte. While Frye remains critical of imperial tyranny, he openly admires the civil infrastructure, legal reforms, and public works left behind by the French administration. By recording the grievances of ordinary citizens and conversing with proscribed political exiles, the book argues that true national greatness stems from the enlightenment, industry, and freedom of a populace rather than the pomp and luxury of royal courts.

Why Read It Today

After Waterloo offers a remarkably fresh, eyewitness perspective on European life at a decisive historic crossroads. Readers who enjoy classic travel literature, early nineteenth-century history, or cultural critique will appreciate Frye’s direct, engaging voice. Unlike many contemporary British commentators of his era who held rigid nationalist views, Frye writes with genuine curiosity, broad multilingual erudition, and an energetic preference for continental life.

The narrative carries the reader along through a diverse mix of experiences, from quiet evenings at the theater in Paris to high-stakes adventures on erupting volcanoes and week-long journeys aboard river rafts. Frye’s keen eye for human detail brings minor historical figures and local customs vividly to life.

Modern readers should be prepared for periodic period idiosyncrasies, including untranslated Latin, French, and Italian phrases, as well as foreign place names spelled according to older English conventions. The text also contains broad generalizations about national character typical of early nineteenth-century travel writing. However, these elements do not diminish the value of the work. Frye’s warmth, sharp observations, and unwavering commitment to civic freedom make this travelogue an enduringly readable historical document.

<ElicitationsGroup message="If you want to explore this period further:"> <Elicitation label="Examine the political background of post-1815 Europe" query="What was the political climate in Europe immediately following the Battle of Waterloo in 1815?"/> <Elicitation label="Explore early 19th-century European travel literature" query="What are some other notable 19th-century travelogues written by British travelers in Europe?"/> </ElicitationsGroup>