An Illustrated Account of St. Bartholomew's Priory Church, Smithfield: With a Sketch of Bartholomew Fair, St. Bartholomew's Hospital, and the Prior's Country Seat, Canonbury Tower, Islington

In Short

This work serves as a historical guide to the oldest church remaining in London, St. Bartholomew-the-Great, situated in the historically dense district of Smithfield. It chronicles the life of the founder, Rahere—a former minstrel to Henry I—and details the rise, dissolution, and persistent legacy of his Priory. By connecting the church to the nearby hospital, the boisterous annual fair, and the tranquil country retreat of Canonbury Tower, the text provides a comprehensive look at how one religious foundation shaped the surrounding urban landscape for over seven centuries.

The Story

The narrative begins at the start of the twelfth century with Rahere, a man of humble origins who rises to become a jester and minstrel in the tumultuous court of Henry I. Despite his success in the licentious world of the feudal castle, Rahere is struck by a profound sense of emptiness, leading him to seek penance through a pilgrimage to Rome. During this journey, he falls deathly ill and experiences a terrifying vision of being cast into a bottomless pit, only to be saved by the intervention of St. Bartholomew. The Apostle instructs him to return to London and found a church at Smithfield, a marshy, desolate site then used as a public gallows.

Rahere returns, secures the King’s permission, and embarks on the arduous task of taming the morass. Facing skepticism and hostility, he famously feigns idiocy to gather materials and enlist the help of the poor and lepers. Through his perseverance, a glorious stone structure rises, which he governs as Prior for over twenty-two years. The Priory becomes a site of miraculous cures, including the healing of a woman with a swollen tongue and a child born blind, which brings great fame and wealth to the institution. Despite internal rebellions from his own brethren, Rahere secures royal protection and continues his work until his death, leaving behind a foundation of thirteen canons and a reputation for immense charity.

The history of the site continues through the centuries, marked by royal visits, magnificent tournaments, and the darker realities of medieval justice and Reformation-era martyrdom. The Priory survives until the dissolution under Henry VIII, when its buildings are largely repurposed or demolished. The narrative then shifts to the survival of the choir as a parish church, detailing the physical evolution of the structure, from the construction of a seventeenth-century brick tower to the preservation of monuments like Rahere’s tomb and the oriel window of Prior Bolton.

Finally, the book expands its scope to the institutions carved from the Priory’s influence. It details the growth of St. Bartholomew’s Hospital into a premier medical center, the rise and eventual suppression of the chaotic Bartholomew Fair, and the history of the Prior’s country seat at Canonbury Tower. It follows the manor through the hands of various aristocrats and literary figures, including Sir John Spenser, Lord Compton, and eventually Oliver Goldsmith, who is said to have written The Vicar of Wakefield within the tower’s walls. The story concludes with the preservation of these sites, viewing them as enduring relics of an age of faith that has long since been succeeded by the modern metropolis.

How It Unfolds

The conversion of a minstrel Rahere abandons his life of courtly excess after a near-death experience in Rome. He interprets a divine command from St. Bartholomew as a call to build a church in the dangerous, marshy outskirts of London.

The struggle for foundation The work describes the immense labor required to build upon the Smithfield morass. Rahere’s strategic use of assumed idiocy allows him to navigate the social and physical obstacles of his time to complete the Priory.

The era of miracles and expansion The narrative documents the Priory’s zenith as a center of religious devotion and medical care. It provides a list of successive Priors, highlighting their administrative challenges and the accumulation of wealth that sustained the foundation.

The dissolution and secular history The book tracks the transition of the site from a Catholic monastery to a Protestant parish church. It describes the physical destruction of the wider priory and the changing use of its remaining parts, including the church, the hospital, and the country retreat at Canonbury.

The legacy of the fair and hospital The final beats examine the secular institutions that defined the area, such as the transformation of the fair from a trade event into a site of dramatic spectacle. It concludes with the development of the hospital and the literary associations of the manor at Canonbury, cementing the site’s historical importance.

The People

Rahere stands at the center of the account, transitioning from a worldly minstrel to a devoted, if embattled, Prior. He is defined by his persistence and his ability to reconcile his humble birth with the high status of his mission. His struggle against the "licentiousness" of the camp and the later rebellions of his own monks reveals a man of intense, patient conviction.

Prior Bolton, the forty-fifth leader of the house, represents a later, more worldly iteration of the Priory’s governance. Known for his "comfort-seeking" nature, he is nevertheless celebrated as a significant architect who left his mark through the beautiful oriel window and the restoration of Rahere’s tomb.

Alfun, the builder of St. Giles, Cripplegate, acts as a guiding hand to Rahere during the Priory’s infancy. His role as the first hospitaller underscores the collaborative spirit of the early church.

The medical history of the hospital is anchored by figures like William Harvey, the discoverer of blood circulation, and the brusque Dr. Abernethy. Abernethy, in particular, provides a sharp contrast to the pious founders; his stubborn, sometimes rude interactions with royalty show how the institution maintained a distinct, professional identity independent of its religious origins.

Finally, Oliver Goldsmith represents the later, secular life of the Priory’s assets. His residence at Canonbury Tower provides a link between the monastic past and the literary world of the eighteenth century, showing how the space was repurposed by the creative minds of later generations.

In Its Own Voice

“The spot being intersected by many brooks, much difficulty was experienced in forming even a foundation; but after the expenditure of a considerable amount of time and labour this was accomplished.”

This passage details the physical reality of building upon the Smithfield morass in the twelfth century.

“In feasts he was sober, and namely the follower of hospitality. Tribulations of wretches, and necessities of the poor people opportunely admitting; patiently supporting, competently spending.”

This contemporary description outlines the character of Rahere following his conversion.

“I am Bartholomew, the Apostle of Jesus Christ, and come to succour thee in thine anguish, and to open to thee the secret mysteries of Heaven.”

These words are attributed to the Saint in the vision that inspired the founding of the church.

What It's Really About

The work is a meditation on the concept of "endurance." It grapples with the question of how an institution—and the architecture it produces—survives the passage of centuries, the upheaval of the Reformation, and the encroachment of a modern, smoke-filled city. The text explores the tension between the sacred origins of the Priory and the secular, often chaotic uses to which its grounds were later put. Ultimately, it asks whether the true essence of a place lies in its original spiritual purpose or in the layer upon layer of human activity that accumulates over time, transforming a site of martyrdom and miracles into one of medical healing, theater, and literature.

Why Read It Today

Readers with an interest in London’s architectural ghosts will find this book an invaluable companion. It feels like a patient, scholarly ramble through the city, written with a warmth that suggests a genuine affection for the "simple, solid grandeur" of the Norman columns that still stand today. The author’s voice is measured and precise, offering a window into a period where folklore, religious vision, and hard administrative reality were deeply intertwined.

However, modern readers should be prepared for the book’s nineteenth-century sensibilities. The prose sometimes drifts into the flowery, reflective style of its time, and it occasionally views the past through a lens of "superstitious awe" that modern historical writing might approach with more skepticism. The narrative also includes anecdotes—such as the rough behavior of Dr. Abernethy or the chaotic scenes at Bartholomew Fair—that reflect the social attitudes of both the medieval period and the Victorian era. Because it covers such a vast span of time, the book may feel episodic, but for those who enjoy uncovering the hidden histories buried beneath the pavement of a modern city, it offers a rich and rewarding look at how one small corner of Smithfield has remained a vital, beating heart of London for nearly a thousand years.