Around the clock in Europe

In Short

Charles Fish Howell presents a structured literary sequence exploring European cities at distinct hours of the day and night. Rather than offering a standard guidebook, Howell captures the shifting atmospheres, historical echoes, and human routines of iconic urban landscapes, from Edinburgh's historic wynds to the radiant boulevards of late-night Paris. By pairing real-time atmospheric observation with deep literary and cultural commentary, the book survives as a captivating time capsule of pre-World War I European life, celebrating the art of thoughtful, impressionistic travel.

The Story

The book takes the reader on a choreographed journey through iconic European locations, assigning specific hours to different cities to construct an immersive travel sequence. Howell begins by establishing a meditative, impressionistic approach to sight-seeing, where immediate visual details naturally trigger historical reflections and literary memories.

In Edinburgh, the narrative meanders through gloomy closes, sinister alleys, and the historic Grassmarket, invoking the dark history of Covenanters, the murders of Burke and Hare, and the old Tolbooth prison made famous by Sir Walter Scott. The focus shifts from historical shadows to the light of High Street, observing barefoot children, Gaelic-speaking Highlanders, and bustling legal professionals around Parliament Square.

Moving to Antwerp during the vibrant afternoon hours, Howell observes the bustling trade along the river Scheldt, populated by canal barges, German tramps, and British freighters. He contrasts this energetic commercial present with grim historical memories of the Spanish Inquisition, King Philip, and the religious revolts that once ravaged the city’s cathedral. From the heights of the cathedral spire, he views the vast, carpeted Flemish countryside filled with dikes, wind-driven mills, and hard-working farm families.

In Rome, the travelogue explores Catholic tradition and faith, contemplating venerated relics like the scala santa and the miraculous wooden Bambino of the Ara Coeli. In Prague, Howell crosses the ancient Moldau bridge, recounting the legend of St. John Nepomuc and describing local Bohemian traditions, peasant Christmas customs, and the rich musical heritage of Smetana and Dvořák.

As twilight falls, the narrative enters Berlin between six and seven in the evening, capturing the industrial capital as workers spill into the streets. Howell analyzes the Prussian character—its blend of intense practicality, bureaucratic order, and ostentatious play—while cataloging the modern city's efficient transportation, pneumatic mail, and structured daily life.

Nightfall brings the reader to London's Surrey side and Greenwich, contrasting drab industrial streets and historic taverns with the city's solemn dining rituals. In Naples, the author floats by boat along the Posilipo front at sunset, reflecting on Virgil and Horace before joining polite crowds listening to outdoor opera on illuminated piazzas. Heidelberg offers romantic moonlight views of castle ruins above the Neckar valley, while Switzerland's Lauterbrunnen Valley showcases dramatic precipices and cascading waterfalls like the Staubbach.

In Venice, the sequence captures late-night serenades along the canals, where rich operatic solos command absolute silence from floating audiences. Finally, the journey culminates in Paris between midnight and dawn. Along the brilliant, light-filled boulevards, Howell watches a buoyant crowd of theatergoers, students, and boulevardiers enjoying the nocturnal spectacle. The book ends at one in the morning, embracing the fleeting, joyful philosophy of the Paris night.

How It Unfolds

The journey takes shape The author sets out to capture the distinct physical character and emotional atmosphere of European cities at specific hours, blending immediate sensory observations with drifting excursions of memory and imagination.

Walking historic streets Exploring Edinburgh's High Street and Old Town, the narrative connects physical landmarks like the cobbled outline of the old Tolbooth prison to the vivid literary world of Sir Walter Scott.

Observing river commerce Along the Scheldt in Antwerp, the commentary shifts between the modern harbor throngs of tugs, freighters, and family-operated canal barges and dramatic historical memories of Spanish rule and religious revolt.

Encountering sacred traditions In Rome and Prague, the narrative examines deep Catholic faith, legendary miracles, local peasant customs, and how regional culture finds expression through sacred relics and national music.

Analyzing urban character Twilight in Berlin prompts an examination of Prussian efficiency, strict bureaucratic order, and the distinct social habits of its energetic, practical working population.

Nighttime serenades and boulevards Passing through Naples, Heidelberg, and Venice, the sequence culminates on the midnight boulevards of Paris, capturing a world of music, sparkling lights, and late-night revelry before dawn.

The People

The Parisian Boulevardier He wants to savor the fleeting pleasures of the night without burdening himself with past troubles or future anxieties. Dressed and groomed à la mode, he strolls the light-filled thoroughfares with unhasting dignity, viewing the vibrant street life as an ongoing, joyful spectacle.

The Bohemian Czechs They seek cultural identity and personal joy through music, dance, and deeply held traditions despite centuries of hardship and political turnover. Represented by figures like Smetana and Dvořák, their spirit finds expression in national folk melodies, quiet resilience, and dramatic local legends.

The Prussian Berliner He desires order, thoroughness, and vigorous success in both work and leisure. Enormously self-assertive and deeply accustomed to governmental system and routine, he approaches his evening diversions with the same intense, practical energy he applies to his daily labor.

The Flemish Canal Family They seek a modest, self-contained life on the waterways of northern Europe. Living aboard spotless barges decorated with geraniums and clean curtains, they represent a peaceful, amphibious existence that balances constant travel with the comfort of home.

In Its Own Voice

"As you gaze about on this ill-omened slum, once the home of many a prosperous and respected 'free burgess,' but now given over to drovers and visiting farmers, and peer suspiciously up the adjoining West Port where Burke and Hare conducted their murders to get bodies for the surgeons, you are very apt to beat a hurried retreat and cry out with Claverhouse, 'Come, open the West Port and let me gang free!'"

Observing the eerie historical shadows lingering within the narrow closes of Edinburgh.

"Between the truffles of Mayfair and the 'faggots' of Whitechapel lies the region of the menu with which the average Londoner is most familiar and which he is now exploring with profound earnestness according to his lights and shillings."

Reflecting on the serious, almost ritualistic nature of dining across different social strata in London.

"A bottle of cheap wine, a loaf of bread, and a guitar provide joy enough for an army in the family parties of the poor that float out on to the lagoon in rough market gondolas at sunset."

Capturing the natural musicality and simple pleasures of evening life on the Venetian waters.

What It's Really About

The book explores how place, time, and human presence intersect to create the distinct spirit of a city. Beyond mere sightseeing, Howell examines the concept of "impressionistic travel"—the idea that a traveler's experience is shaped as much by internal memories, literature, and history as by visible scenery.

Underneath its geographic structure, the text contrasts the heavy weight of European history with the immediate, ephemeral joys of daily life. Whether reflecting on past religious wars in Flanders or watching late-night crowds on the Parisian boulevards, Howell argues for living fully in the present moment while remaining deeply sensitive to the cultural heritage and human stories that define each community.

Why Read It Today

This book will delight readers who appreciate vintage travel writing, cultural history, and evocative prose. It offers the charming experience of stepping back into Edwardian-era Europe just years before the First World War transformed the continent forever. Howell writes with an engaging, cultivated tone that blends historical erudition with lighthearted human observation, making the reader feel like a well-read companion on a leisurely Grand Tour.

The reading experience requires a patient appreciation for early twentieth-century prose, which leans heavily into detailed descriptive passages, classical literary allusions, and romantic idealizations of local national traits. Modern readers may occasionally find the period attitudes regarding regional characteristics slightly generalized or dated. However, the author's genuine warmth, keen eye for urban details—from streetcar cigar racks in Berlin to floating serenades in Venice—and deep affection for European culture ensure that the journey remains thoroughly rewarding, leaving behind a lasting impression of a bygone world captured at its most peaceful and radiant hours.