Bell's Cathedrals: The Cathedral Church of Ely: A History and Description of the Building with a Short Account of the Monastery and of the See

In Short

This volume serves as a comprehensive companion for the visitor or student of ecclesiastical history. It balances technical descriptions of the cathedral’s fabric—the nave, the unique octagon, and the presbytery—with a chronological account of the monastery’s development and the succession of its bishops. By synthesizing centuries of architectural records and local chronicles, the work provides a clear, grounded narrative of how a single site has been built, damaged, and repeatedly restored, preserving a profound sense of continuity through the shifting eras of English history.

The Story

The narrative of Ely begins in the seventh century with Etheldreda, a royal figure who established a religious house on the Isle of Ely. With the support of her brother, King Adulphus, and the guidance of Wilfrid, she founded a monastery that quickly secured a rare independence from both royal and episcopal interference. Following Etheldreda’s death in 679, the site endured the turbulence of the Danish invasions in 870, which left the house in a state of ruin. A century later, under King Edgar and Bishop Ethelwold, the monastery was resuscitated, transitioning into a Benedictine house that would eventually serve as the foundation for the cathedral itself.

The transition from a monastic house to a powerful See occurred in the twelfth century, when the bishopric was formally constituted. The ensuing centuries saw a series of ambitious architectural projects that defined the building as it stands today. The construction of the massive Norman nave began in the twelfth century, followed by the Early English work of Bishop Northwold, who expanded the presbytery. A pivotal moment arrived in 1322 when the central tower collapsed. Under the leadership of Prior Alan de Walsingham, the monks undertook the construction of the iconic Octagon, a feat of engineering that remains the building's structural and aesthetic centerpiece.

As the centuries progressed, the cathedral became a repository for the wealth and vanity of its bishops. Figures like Bishop Alcock and Bishop West added ornate, independent chapels, while others, such as Bishop Goodrich, navigated the volatile landscape of the Reformation. The dissolution of the monastery in 1539 under Henry VIII fundamentally altered the life of the house, yet the fabric of the church remained, requiring periodic interventions—most notably the work of Sir Christopher Wren in the seventeenth century following a partial collapse of the north transept.

The nineteenth century introduced a new phase of intensive restoration. Under figures like Dean Goodwin, the cathedral underwent a comprehensive program of renewal, including the reconstruction of the organ, the cleaning and repairing of the stonework, and the addition of modern fittings like the reredos and pulpit. The history concludes with a detailed survey of the surrounding precincts, including the infirmary and the Ely Porta, illustrating how the cathedral has survived the centuries by balancing its role as a living house of worship with its identity as an evolving, protected monument of stone.

How It Unfolds

The foundational era The narrative opens with the religious devotion of Etheldreda and the royal support that granted her monastery early autonomy. It traces the struggle to maintain this independence through the Danish raids and the subsequent Benedictine revival.

The rise of the See The focus shifts to the twelfth-century formalization of the bishopric and the complex administrative relationship between the bishop and the monastery. This section examines the slow, steady construction of the Norman nave and the early tower.

The architectural crisis and triumph The text details the catastrophic collapse of the central tower in 1322 and the subsequent, ingenious creation of the Octagon. It highlights the leadership of Alan de Walsingham in executing these advanced designs during the Decorated period.

The era of Reformation and reform The account moves through the sixteenth-century dissolution of the monastery and the subsequent re-purposing of the building. It describes how the cathedral’s identity shifted during the Reformation and the later stewardship under figures like Wren.

The age of restoration The final movement covers the extensive nineteenth-century repairs and additions that prepared the cathedral for the modern era. It concludes with a tour of the monastic precincts, cataloging the surviving medieval gates and chapels.

The People

The history is defined by the individuals who shaped the stones of Ely. Etheldreda stands at the origin, a royal foundress whose spiritual vision and land grants established the site's enduring power. Centuries later, Alan de Walsingham emerges as the central genius of the building; as prior during the construction of the Octagon and the Lady-Chapel, he serves as both architect and administrator, managing the immense costs and engineering challenges with singular resolve.

The bishops appear as a varied cast of characters. Hugh Northwold is presented as a model of piety and generosity, responsible for the magnificent Early English presbytery. In contrast, James Stanley is depicted with a touch of dry humor, noted for his "indifferent moral character" and his tendency to avoid the cathedral in favor of more worldly pursuits. Nicholas West represents the intersection of church and state, a statesman and diplomat whose favor with the King soured during the crisis of Queen Katherine’s divorce. Finally, the narrative honors the contributions of later administrators like Dean Goodwin and various benefactors who, through donations of brasses, stained glass, and masonry, ensured the survival of the fabric into the twentieth century. Each figure, from the pious founder to the worldly politician, leaves a distinct mark upon the cathedral’s walls.

In Its Own Voice

"Non de Rege nec de Episcopo libertas loci diminueretur, vel in posterum confringeretur."

Describing the unique legal privilege granted to Etheldreda’s monastery at its inception, this decree insured that the independence of the site would not be diminished by king or bishop.

"The weight of the lantern, it need hardly be said, is not borne, though it looks like it from below, by the vaulting that we see."

The author provides technical insight into the construction of the Octagon, revealing the hidden timber structure that supports the weight that appears to rest upon the stone vaults.

What It's Really About

At its core, this history explores the tension between spiritual continuity and physical decay. It treats the cathedral not merely as a museum piece, but as a living organism that has survived by constantly renewing its own skin. The book grapples with the question of how a community of faith leaves a physical legacy that outlasts the individuals who built it. It examines the shifting definitions of beauty across the Norman, Early English, and Decorated periods, arguing that the cathedral is a collaborative achievement of many generations, each layering its own aesthetic values over the bones of its predecessors.

Why Read It Today

Readers with a penchant for architectural history or those planning a pilgrimage to the English cathedrals will find this volume invaluable. It eschews the superficiality of modern travel guides, offering instead a sober, deep-dive into the technical and historical layers of the building. You will find it deeply satisfying if you appreciate the rhythm of long-form, scholarly investigation, where every archway, monument, and piece of carved wood has a documented story.

The writing is warm and precise, though it does not shy away from the dense, list-like nature of building history. Readers should be prepared for the occasional period attitude and a heavy emphasis on names, dates, and administrative details. However, it is precisely this rigor that makes the book enduring. It provides a tactile connection to the past, stripping away the vagueness of time to show exactly how a building of such complexity remains standing. For anyone who has ever stood in the center of a great nave and wondered about the specific hands that placed the stones, this book provides the definitive, grounded answer. It leaves the reader with a profound respect for the persistent, human effort required to create and preserve beauty amidst the turbulence of history.