Christmas on the briny : The innocents abroad

In Short

Setting out from Geraldton aboard a small fishing boat on Christmas Eve, a group of local residents embarks on a ten-day holiday cruise to the remote Abrolhos Islands. Part travelogue and part amateur natural history essay, the book records the daily rhythms of camp life, the comic misadventures of dwindling beer rations and seasickness, and the author's meticulous geological musings on coral formations, ocean currents, and zoological provinces. It endures as a charmingly idiosyncratic snapshot of early twentieth-century colonial leisure and observation on the Western Australian coast.

The Story

The journey opens on Christmas Eve at the Esplanade jetty in Geraldton, where a party of local residents boards the fishing boat While-away, generously provided by Mr. George Baston. As the boat slips out into Champion Bay and heads into the open ocean, the passengers experience the classic discomforts of landsmen encountering the sea, punctuated by reflections on the tragic 1629 shipwreck of the Batavia. After a night of drifting and becalmed waters, the travelers sight Goss Island and drop anchor near Pigeon and East Wallaby Islands.

Upon reaching the Abrolhos, the party establishes a camp named "Point Desolation" on Wallaby Island. Because some members must return early and supplies are limited, strict management of provisions becomes essential. Mr. Baston and a legal member of the party guard the dwindling stock of beer and whisky with humorous reference to the Governor of North Carolina. Days are spent exploring the rugged terrain, visiting Turtle Bay, bathing, shooting wallabies and pigeons, and gathering tern eggs, all while eagerly watching the horizon for the return of the While-away from Geraldton.

Once reunited with their vessel, the travelers continue south to Rat Island, where they encounter helpful Italian fishermen, abandoned guano-mining infrastructure, and millions of screaming sooty and noddy terns covering every bush. Moving onward to Woody Island, they marvel at a landlocked salt lagoon, rich bird life, and a massive turtle. Their exploration is abruptly halted by a stiff southerly gale that forces them to seek shelter near a stone beacon known as the "Post Office." Weather-bound and low on bread, the passengers endure howling winds and rolling seas, with "Father" retreating below deck in true Pinafore fashion.

As the gale subsides, the party embarks on a rough voyage homeward, sustaining themselves on plum pudding and anticipation. A dying breeze leaves them becalmed just outside Geraldton for seven agonizing hours within sight of the town's lights and pubs. When they finally drop anchor at the pier, sunburnt and storm-tossed, they celebrate the end of their adventure with deep appreciation for the local brewery.

The narrative then shifts from travelogue to scientific inquiry. The author examines the unique positioning of the Abrolhos—coral islands situated far south of the tropics—and investigates the complex interplay of polar and equatorial ocean currents, including the evidence provided by drifting bottles. He explores the concept of the Australian zoological plateau and its distinct boundary with Malayan fauna. Finally, he considers the geological mechanics behind the islands' elevation, ultimately arguing that their uniform height results not from violent volcanic upheaval, but from global Earth-shrinking and uniform ocean subsidence.

How It Unfolds

• The Christmas Eve departure: The holiday party boards the While-away at midnight, gliding out of Champion Bay into long ocean swells. Passengers trade lighthearted banter and succumb to seasickness while contemplating the dark maritime history of the region.
• Reaching the Wallaby group: After a slow, becalmed passage, the boat navigates the narrow channel to Pigeon and East Wallaby Islands. The travelers wade across sharp coral flats to establish their base camp at Point Desolation.
• Island life and strict rationing: Days on Wallaby Island involve hunting wallabies, collecting tern eggs, and swimming at Turtle Bay. With beer supplies running low, Mr. Baston and a legal companion strictly regulate the remaining bottles under playful political pretexts.
• The biological spectacle of Rat Island: The group visits Rat Island, finding friendly Italian fishermen and an overwhelming concentration of nesting seabirds. Millions of noddy and sooty terns blanket the island in a deafening, fluttering cloud.
• Weather-bound at the Post Office: A sudden southerly gale traps the boat in a narrow channel near a stone beacon. The passengers endure severe rolling and dwindling food supplies while riding out the fierce storm below deck.
• The frustrating homecoming: After a bumpy return voyage, a dying wind strands the boat within sight of Geraldton for hours. The travelers endure a final test of patience, plagued by thirst within view of town, before stepping ashore to claim their reward.
• The currents and coral inquiry: The text transitions into an extended scientific treatise exploring why coral islands exist so far south. The author maps out polar and equatorial ocean currents, examines zoological boundaries, and evaluates tectonic versus subsidence theories for the islands' origins.

The People

The narrative features a colorful cast of Geraldton residents and crew members who share the cramped quarters of the While-away. Mr. George Baston initiates the excursion by offering his fishing boat and overseeing provisioning, later taking charge of the strict liquor locker. Nicholas serves as the pragmatic, weather-wise skipper who navigates intricate coral channels and predicts the shifting winds. Miles acts as the cheerful shipboard chef, waking the crew with coffee and managing meals despite difficult conditions.

Other notable companions include Mr. Randell, who proves himself the master fisherman of the group, and Mr. Nathan, whose culinary skills turn small snapper into delicious fried suppers. Mr. Drewry provides a previous campsite reference on Wallaby Island, while Mr. Kidd assists with hunting game. An older participant known affectionately as "Father" stubbornly insists on sleeping on deck until a harsh southern gale forces him below to seek refuge in the hold like Sir Joseph Porter from Pinafore. Additionally, two unnamed legal members of the party add levity—one memorably tumbling into a coral hole while trying to signal for more beer, and the other joining Baston in faithfully guarding the remaining rations. Throughout the journey, these men transition from comfortable townsmen to sunburnt, blistered adventurers who adapt gracefully to primitive conditions.

In Its Own Voice

How very true the description of fishing: “a long string, with a hook at one end and a fool at the other.”

The author reflects wryly on the patience required when hours pass without a single bite in the deep ocean waters.

It is a curious speculation therefore, how these islands came to exist in their present position.

Transitioning into natural history, the author introduces the central geological puzzle of finding tropical coral structures far south of the equator.

The world is continually shrinking in diameter at the rate of about four feet in a year.

Exploring the mechanics of global geography, the author proposes a grand theory of continuous planetary contraction to explain how landmasses emerge.

What It's Really About

Beyond documenting a casual holiday excursion, the book explores the harmonious coexistence of lighthearted human camaraderie and the austere indifference of the natural world. It investigates the fragile boundary between civilization and the raw wilderness of the Australian coast, contrasting the trivial comforts of town life—such as beer and fresh bread—with the timeless mechanics of earth science. The text grapples with profound questions regarding the origins of coral formations, the fixed nature of zoological provinces, and the continuous planetary contraction that shapes the globe. Ultimately, it argues that human history and geological evolution are deeply intertwined with the physical environment, urging readers to observe the natural world with both scientific precision and appreciative wonder.

Why Read It Today

Readers who appreciate historical travel writing, vernacular humor, and nineteenth-century natural philosophy will find much to love in this unassuming booklet. Reading it feels like sitting on a breezy deck listening to an educated, witty companion recount a memorable adventure filled with dry observations and genuine camaraderie.

Modern readers must navigate a few period-specific challenges, including archaic prose styles, occasional technical digressions on ocean currents, and colonial attitudes toward wildlife and guano mining. However, the reward far outweighs these minor hurdles. The book preserves a vivid, unvarnished window into early Western Australian life, capturing the sensory details of salt spray, howling gales, and starry night skies over untouched coral islands. What stays with you long after closing the book is the warmth of its human interactions—the shared mugs of coffee, the laughter over spilled beer, and the enduring spirit of exploration that turns a simple holiday trip into a timeless literary keepsake.