Cousin-hunting in Scandinavia

In Short

This narrative chronicles an American scholar’s journey through Denmark, Sweden, and Norway as she sets out to discover her Scandinavian roots. Structured as a series of warm, detailed letters written to a friend named Cynthia, the text bypasses standard tourist spectacles to focus on domestic customs, regional histories, and personal encounters with distant relatives. Traveling by train, steamer, and foot, the author blends lighthearted observations of everyday habits with thoughtful commentary on museums, historical figures, and ancient ruins, offering a vivid portrait of early twentieth-century Scandinavian life.

The Story

The journey begins in Denmark, where the narrator introduces her underlying premise: Scandinavia serves as the true "grandmother land" of the English-speaking world, harboring shared blood, manners, and history. Arriving in Copenhagen, she immediately immerses herself in the local atmosphere, steering clear of standard guidebook itineraries to focus on intimate cultural details. She examines ancient shell middens on the Danish coast, comparing them directly to prehistoric heaps she previously observed in California, and reflects on the Stone Age inhabitants who once gathered there. Her time in the Danish capital includes visits to the tomb-like Thorwaldsen Museum—where she critically evaluates the sculptor’s classical figures—and a trip to the city's allotment gardens, where her relative, Cousin Lars, maintains a prized plot of flowers and vegetables.

From Copenhagen, the traveler ventures out to the island of Bornholm, exploring the dramatic thirteenth-century castle ruins of Hammershuus perched on ocean cliffs. She slidingly descends into its dark dungeon, reflecting on the historical figures once imprisoned there, before boarding a steamer for Sweden. Upon crossing into Swedish territory, she notes the dense evergreen forests, silver lakes, and small red cottages that define the landscape. In Stockholm, she visits Skansen, an open-air museum featuring preserved historical homes, where re-enactors in traditional dress demonstrate past ways of living. Moving north to the university town of Uppsala, she examines rare historical treasures, including a portrait of the eccentric Queen Christina and the famous fourth-century "Silver Bible" manuscript.

Her Swedish travels continue into the industrial and rural regions. At Söderhamn, she visits her cousin Gunnar, observing the polite, courtly manners of his six sons and admiring a sunlit tomato plant growing far north of its typical range. In the parish of Rättvik, she observes local churchgoers wearing traditional Dalecarlian costumes, characterized by high black caps, embroidered bodices, and knee trousers trimmed with bouncing red pom-poms.

Crossing into Norway, the traveler boards steamers to navigate rainy coastal ports like Aalesund and Bergen. She walks through wet open-air markets where locals shop for fresh fish while carrying fragrant bouquets of flowers. In Christiania, she inspects the ancient Oseberg and Gokstad Viking ships, recalling how a modern replica once sailed across the Atlantic to prove the feasibility of early Norse voyages. Turning back toward Denmark for the conclusion of her summer tour, she visits the Tivoli amusement park in Copenhagen, boards a two-story steam train, and visits the historic town of Roskilde. Watching livestock sales in the town square and reflecting on the region's royal past, she prepares to return home as her summer vacation comes to an end.

How It Unfolds

The entrance into Denmark The narrator arrives in Copenhagen and begins exploring Danish culture, comparing prehistoric coastal shell middens to similar archaeological sites in California. She visits local museums and tours city allotment gardens with her relative, Cousin Lars.

Exploring Bornholm and Swedish landscapes After inspecting the cliffside ruins of Hammershuus Castle on Bornholm, the traveler takes a steamer to Sweden. She travels past timber forests and silver lakes, stopping in Stockholm to tour the historic preserved houses at Skansen.

Visiting academic centers and northern kin At the University of Uppsala, the author views historic manuscripts, including the famous silver-lettered Gothic Bible. She then travels north to Söderhamn to stay with her cousin Gunnar, observing local customs, household gardens, and courtly Swedish manners.

Sailing the Norwegian fiords The journey continues into Norway, where the writer visits rain-soaked fish markets in Bergen and observes local life along the coast. In Christiania, she examines preserved Viking vessels and reflects on the history of Norse maritime navigation.

Concluding the Scandinavian tour Returning to Denmark, the narrator spends an evening at Copenhagen's Tivoli park before traveling to the historic town of Roskilde. She observes the bustling open-air livestock market and prepares for her eventual voyage home to America.

The People

• The Narrator: An observant American traveler of Scandinavian descent who seeks a personal understanding of her ancestral homeland. She approaches her journey with curiosity, preferring domestic details, historical artifacts, and informal family visits over conventional tourist attractions.
• Cynthia: The narrator's friend back home in America, who serves as the recipient of the letters. Though absent from the physical journey, her expected interest guides the narrative's descriptive tone and choices of subject matter.
• Cousin Lars: A Danish relative living in Copenhagen who guides the narrator through the city's sights, including his prized allotment garden and the crowded paths of the Tivoli amusement park.
• Cousin Gunnar: A customs officer in Söderhamn, Sweden, whose welcoming household introduces the narrator to Swedish family life, regional domestic pride, and formal etiquette.

In Its Own Voice

"The population would be so much healthier, both mentally and physically, if gardening could be substituted for idle gossip, cheap society twaddle—or worse." Reflecting on the social and health benefits of the modest allotment gardens rented by working-class families in Copenhagen.

"There were plenty of rocks, too, but in the form of sightly crags or rugged bluffs which were really a contribution to the picture." Describing the picturesque, forested countryside viewed from the train while traveling through the interior of Sweden.

"Many of them went off with a parcel of 'smelly' fish in one hand and a fragrant posy in the other." Observing the shoppers navigating the rainy, open-air market stalls in Bergen, Norway.

What It's Really About

Beneath its travelogue framework, the book investigates the cultural and blood ties connecting modern Americans to their northern European origins. The author argues that Scandinavia functions as a foundational "grandmother land" whose historical contributions to language, law, and daily life remain underappreciated. By highlighting shared domestic practices—such as community gardening, regional crafts, and informal hospitality—the narrative attempts to humanize Scandinavian society for an American audience. It presents travel not as an exercise in passive sight-seeing, but as an active effort to understand living people, historic preservation, and civic well-being across international lines.

Why Read It Today

This volume appeals to readers interested in early twentieth-century travel writing, Scandinavian heritage, and historical everyday life. Written in a plain, conversational style, it offers a vivid look at Europe just before the widespread shifts of the mid-twentieth century. Readers will appreciate the author's eye for small, practical details—such as train travel logistics, regional peasant costumes, and local eating customs—which ground her observations in lived reality.

Modern readers should note that the narrative relies on the racial and historical theories common to the early 1910s, particularly regarding ancestral lineages and population purity. Additionally, because the text is structured entirely as personal correspondence, its pace is episodic rather than driven by a single dramatic plot line. Nevertheless, the writer's warm humor, critical independence when viewing classic art, and genuine affection for her hosts make the narrative an engaging piece of historical travel literature.