Dairying exemplified, or, The business of cheese-making: Laid down from approved rules, collected from the most experienced dairy-women, of several counties. Digested under various heads. From a series of observations, during thirty years practice in the cheese trade. The second edition corrected and improved

In Short

This book acts as a bridge between traditional rural knowledge and commercial success in the late 1700s. It functions as a comprehensive manual for the art of cheese-making, addressing everything from the proper preparation of rennet—the stomach lining used to coagulate milk—to the cultivation of specific, beneficial herbs in pastures. By detailing the chemistry of "slip-curd" and the mechanics of the cheese press, the text aims to standardize dairy production, helping farmers improve both the texture and the yield of their output.

The Story

The narrative begins with a recognition of the cow as the cornerstone of human subsistence, providing not only milk and meat but also the materials for clothing and tools. However, the author quickly pivots to the primary concern: the inconsistency of cheese quality in local markets. Despite centuries of daily practice, there existed no standardized set of rules for the process, leading to a landscape where no two dairies produced the same result. The author identifies this as a failure of technique rather than a limitation of nature.

The argument progresses through a detailed dissection of the cheese-making process. The author insists that the quality of the final product rests entirely upon the "art, judgment, care, and diligence" of the dairy-woman. He moves systematically through the stages of production: the initial heating of the milk, the careful addition of salt, the precise timing required for the rennet to work, and the dangers of disturbing the curd before it has reached a state of solid maturity. By identifying "slip-curd"—the unstable, uncoagulated state of milk—as the primary culprit behind poor cheese, he provides a diagnostic tool for those struggling with batches that heave, crack, or turn sour.

As the text unfolds, the focus shifts to the materials themselves. The reader is walked through the meticulous preparation of maw-skins, the importance of cleaning equipment, and the dangers of using contaminated whey or foul brine. The author shares anecdotes from his own career to illustrate these principles, often contrasting a struggling, misinformed dairy-woman with one who follows rigorous standards. He shows how simple adjustments—such as precise temperature control and patience in the press—can transform a failing operation into a profitable one.

The final arc of the book expands beyond the cheese-tub to the environment itself. The author argues that because a cow’s milk reflects the quality of its pasture, a truly professional dairy-man must also be a steward of the land. He concludes with a botanical survey, identifying both the salutary herbs that should be sown and the poisonous plants—like hemlock and deadly nightshade—that must be eradicated from the grazing grounds. The book ends not just as a recipe collection, but as a holistic manifesto for agricultural improvement, asserting that with enough care and the correct methods, excellence is achievable on any land.

How It Unfolds

The foundation of the craft The text establishes the necessity of professionalizing dairy work by treating milk as a precise chemical medium. It emphasizes that consistent outcomes rely on controlling variables like temperature and timing, rather than relying on guesswork.

The science of the curd The author provides a detailed diagnostic manual for common failures like "hove" or "spongy" cheese. He explains that these defects are usually the result of rushing the fermentation process, which traps air and causes the cheese to blister or shatter internally.

The secrets of the rennet A significant portion of the book is dedicated to the preparation of maw-skins, emphasizing the need for absolute cleanliness and patience. The author debunks the use of old whey or foul brine, insisting on pure, well-salted materials to avoid taint.

The ecology of the pasture The final section shifts the perspective from the dairy-room to the field, linking the health of the cow to the quality of the milk. By cataloging toxic plants and suggesting medicinal herbs for sowing, the author connects environmental management to the bottom line of cheese production.

The People

The book centers on two figures: the "Dairy-Woman" and the "Factor." The Dairy-Woman is the primary subject, the skilled practitioner whose knowledge, if properly applied, dictates the success or failure of the farm. She is often depicted as needing refinement—not because she lacks skill, but because she lacks the scientific understanding of why certain traditional methods result in failure. The author treats her with deep respect, acknowledging that his own knowledge was gathered from the most experienced women in the trade.

The Factor is the voice of the market and the author himself. As a dealer who has handled thousands of cheeses, he serves as the judge of quality. He is the one who notices the "amazing difference" in batches and identifies which dairies are producing excellence and which are wasting good milk. He stands in the way of complacency; he is the person the Dairy-Woman must impress to secure a higher price at the fair. Through their interaction, the reader sees the bridge between the quiet, rural labor of the dairy-house and the competitive, discerning world of the wholesale trade.

In Its Own Voice

The real design of this Work, is to assist those who are not fully acquainted with the most proper methods, necessary to be used in the management of a DAIRY; I have made it my endeavour to render every part as plain and intelligent as possible.

The author clarifies his goal of standardizing dairy practices for those seeking to improve their results.

A good way to prevent this disorder, of what is called Cheese heaving in the Press, from taking a bad effect... when the Cheese has first been in the Press an Hour or more, let the Press up and if you find the Cheese swell, or blister, take a large Needle, or fine Skewer, of Wood or Iron, and pierce it in many places to let the Air out.

This advice offers a practical, if slightly desperate, intervention for a common production failure.

What It's Really About

At its core, this book is an argument against the idea that farming is a static tradition. It posits that dairy production is a technical, scientific enterprise that demands constant observation and empirical testing. It asks the reader to look beyond the "time immemorial" ways of doing things and instead interrogate the biological and chemical processes occurring in the tub. The book challenges the belief that poor quality is simply bad luck, asserting instead that every defect—from a "honey-comb" texture to a rank smell—has a traceable, preventable cause. It is a work about the dignity of labor, arguing that when a dairy-woman shifts from blind adherence to informed practice, she elevates her role from a mere laborer to a skilled artisan.

Why Read It Today

Readers interested in the history of food, agricultural science, or the transition toward modern production methods will find this book deeply rewarding. It provides an intimate, granular look at the eighteenth-century rural economy, capturing a world where the difference between a profitable year and a loss was measured in needles and skewers. There is a profound, quiet satisfaction in reading these instructions; the author’s voice is warm, pragmatic, and remarkably encouraging, even when he is discussing the "excrements of cheese-making" or the dangers of deadly nightshade.

The book is not without its hurdles. The language, while plain, reflects the orthography and phrasing of the 1780s, which may require a moment of adjustment. Furthermore, some of the specific advice—such as the use of maw-skins—is largely historical, as modern cheese-making has replaced these with standardized, laboratory-produced enzymes. However, the author’s commitment to "precept upon precept, and line upon line" ensures that the reader never feels overwhelmed. If you enjoy texts that value common sense, meticulous record-keeping, and the belief that anything worth doing is worth doing with excellence, you will find this manual a rare, grounding pleasure. It stays with you not as a dusty relic, but as a reminder of the immense, detailed labor required to bring the simplest comforts to the table.