Early voyages and travels in the Levant

In Short

This collection of diaries preserves the vivid, firsthand accounts of early English travelers to the Levant, most notably Thomas Dallam and Dr. John Covel. Sent to the Ottoman Empire for trade and diplomacy, these men recorded their encounters with Sultan Mahomed IV, the intricate politics of the Levant Company, and the day-to-day realities of life in Constantinople, Smyrna, and Adrianople. Through their keen observations of foreign customs, landscapes, and the ever-present danger of the plague, they provide an authentic, unfiltered look at the intersection of East and West during a transformative century.

The Story

The narrative arc begins with the ambitious voyage of Thomas Dallam in 1599. An organ-maker by trade, Dallam travels to Constantinople with a mechanical organ intended as a gift for the Sultan. His journey is a sensory immersion; he tracks the shifting weather, observes the "infinite company of porpoises," and marvels at the lush, green landscapes of the Barbary coast. Upon reaching the capital, he faces a daunting setback: his intricate instrument has been ravaged by the heat and humidity of the ship’s hold. The narrative follows his frantic, skilled efforts to repair the organ, ultimately winning the favor of the Sultan’s court. Through his eyes, the reader gains an intimate perspective on the grandeur of the Seraglio, the spectacle of the Feast of Bairam, and the daily life of a foreigner navigating a powerful, enigmatic empire.

Decades later, the focus shifts to Dr. John Covel, whose diaries capture the mid-seventeenth-century Levant. Covel arrives during a period defined by the dominance of the Kiuprili viziers, who effectively governed in place of the weak-willed Sultan Mahomed IV. His account is less about singular feats of engineering and more about the scholarly and social life of the English merchant community. Covel documents the diplomatic dance between the English ambassadors and the Ottoman officials, detailing the acquisition of capitulations—the legal agreements securing trade rights for the Levant Company. He moves through the empire with a scientific, almost detached curiosity, recording everything from the architectural beauty of Greek monasteries to the gruesome reality of the plague in Adrianople.

The arc of these travelers is one of gradual assimilation and sobering experience. They move from the initial wonder of the "tallest camels" and "fair towns" to the grimmer realities of survival. By the end, the tone matures; they no longer look upon the East as a mere curiosity but as a complex society. They grapple with the unpredictability of travel, the threat of "discontented" sailors, and the unsettling indifference of locals toward the deadly epidemics that sweep through the crowded cities. The journey concludes not with a singular climax, but with a collection of hard-won wisdom, reflecting on a world where the lines between the familiar and the foreign are constantly blurred by trade, religion, and the shared vulnerability of the human condition.

How It Unfolds

The voyage begins Travelers set out from Plymouth, facing harsh, cold weather only to be met by the sudden, blooming heat of the Mediterranean within days. They describe the sea with wonder, tracking whale sightings and the tactical maneuvers of ships passing through the Straits.

The mechanical challenge Upon arrival in Constantinople, the traveler discovers his delicate organ has been ruined by the intense heat of the ship's hold. He describes the frantic, high-stakes repair process, ultimately securing a commission to ensure the instrument is perfected for the Sultan’s court.

Navigating the Ottoman bureaucracy The focus shifts to diplomatic missions, where English ambassadors negotiate trade rights and manage relations with the Viziers. Descriptions of elaborate processions and audience chambers reveal the intricate social hierarchies and the underlying tension of foreign influence in the empire.

The reality of the plague As the travelers settle into life in cities like Adrianople, the narrative takes a darker turn, documenting the recurring outbreaks of the plague. They observe the fatalistic attitude of the locals and the grim, everyday presence of death as they continue their work amidst the contagion.

Reflections on a foreign land The accounts conclude with detailed observations of local customs, from wrestling matches and fireworks to the architecture of mosques and monasteries. The travelers offer a final, measured look at the Ottoman Empire, documenting a life defined by both incredible hospitality and profound, alien hardships.

The People

Thomas Dallam serves as the reader’s initial guide, an observant, practical artisan who views the world through the lens of craftsmanship. He is driven by the desire to complete his work for the Sultan, despite the "amazement" of his peers when they see his ruined organ. His resilience defines the early chapters.

Dr. John Covel acts as the more intellectual counterpart, a man of scientific curiosity who methodically records the social structures of the Ottoman court. He is deeply interested in the "capitulations" and the political power held by the Kiuprili viziers. Covel’s voice is measured and observant, remaining calm even when confronted with the "filthy sores" of the plague.

The Sultan, Mahomed IV, remains a distant, enigmatic figure of authority. Described as a "man of weak character" who preferred the "chase" to statecraft, he nonetheless holds the fate of the English mission in his hands. His detachment leaves room for the viziers to wield the real power, creating a complex political landscape for the English diplomats to navigate.

Finally, the English ambassadors, such as the Earl of Winchilsea and Sir Daniel Harvey, represent the professional face of the Levant Company. They are tasked with the delicate balance of maintaining trade, securing favors through bribes, and navigating the unpredictable temperaments of Ottoman officials. They appear as figures of status, often surrounded by their "train of Englishmen," yet they are ultimately just as vulnerable to the disease and political instability as the common sailors.

In Its Own Voice

"The 24 we saw 2 or 3 greate monstrus fishis or whales, the which did spoute water up into the eayere, lyke as smoke dothe assend out of a chimnay."

Travelers often documented the remarkable sights of the Mediterranean during their long, uncertain sea passages.

"There was a fellow gave me a dish of coffee who had then about him 2 filthy sores; and after he had served us with coffee, by chance talking with some of our Merchants... told them that he had lost three children the week before."

Covel records the unsettling, casual reality of the plague, which persisted even during formal diplomatic interactions.

What It's Really About

The text is a profound examination of the "other"—the process of encountering a civilization that is simultaneously advanced and entirely alien to the English perspective. At its heart, the book explores the tension between trade and culture. It asks how one maintains their identity while operating within a powerful, foreign bureaucracy that views the outsider with a mixture of curiosity and disdain. There is a deep, underlying inquiry into the nature of resilience: how the human spirit persists in the face of environmental disasters, political instability, and the constant, encroaching threat of illness. It questions the meaning of "civilization," contrasting the rigid structure of Ottoman governance with the loose, often chaotic merchant life of the English travelers.

Why Read It Today

Reading these accounts feels like stepping into a time machine that has not been polished for modern sensibilities. You will encounter the raw, unvarnished prose of the seventeenth century, complete with its archaic spellings and period attitudes that do not shy away from the harsh realities of the time—whether it be the "nasty sport" of wrestling or the indifference toward the dead.

Those who enjoy historical journals, the history of diplomacy, or the slow, rhythmic pace of early travel narratives will find this volume deeply rewarding. The writing is precise and observant, moving away from the grand, sweeping generalizations of modern histories to focus on the small, human details: the smell of the sea, the cost of a melon, or the fear of a plague-ridden room. While the archaic language may require a moment of adjustment, the reward is an intimate connection to the individuals who lived through these transformative voyages. What stays with you is the sheer tenacity of the human experience; these men did not merely travel, they navigated a world that tested their skills, their health, and their resolve, leaving behind a legacy of discovery that remains vital for anyone interested in the foundational exchange between the East and the West.