East of the sun and west of the moon

In Short

This chronicle records a 1925 scientific hunting expedition across the Himalayas, Central Asia, and the Pamir Mountains, undertaken by Theodore and Kermit Roosevelt. Traveling thousands of miles on horseback, foot, and yak, the brothers push through high mountain passes, arid deserts, and ancient oases to secure big-game specimens—most notably the elusive Ovis poli—for the Field Museum of Natural History. The narrative endures because it balances the raw, physical grit of classic wilderness exploration with vivid observation, capturing a bygone era of Central Asian travel, local mountain cultures, and the stark beauty of remote landscapes.

The Story

The narrative follows an ambitious scientific expedition from its initial preparations through a grueling circuit of Central Asia and back. Before setting out, complex logistics must be arranged, from gathering specialized gear to securing hounds and organizing transport to India. Once on the ground, the expedition journeys into the Vale of Kashmir, where the travelers assemble their caravan and begin the long, steep ascent into the rugged highlands. The trek immediately tests their endurance as they cross snow-drenched Himalayan passes like the Zoji La, navigating treacherous slopes alongside local guides, baggage animals, and accompanying travelers.

Descending into Ladakh, the scenery shifts to high-altitude barrens dotted with ancient Buddhist monasteries and remote mountain villages. Here, the brothers adjust to high-altitude hunting, pursuing swift burrhel across brown rock and dirt. Pushing further north, the caravan tackles the immense, windswept heights of the Sanju Pass, losing pack animals to the brutal terrain just as winter conditions threaten to lock down the route.

Beyond this final barrier, the expedition emerges into the sweeping plains, dusty deserts, and lush oases of Chinese Turkestan. They traverse historic trade routes, lodging in centuries-old caravansaries, encountering local musicians, and witnessing the harsh, medieval realities of local justice and prison life. Moving onward toward the Tian Shan range, the terrain turns into lush river valleys and dense fir forests. In this rich hunting ground, the brothers split up and stalk big game through rain, mud, and heavy snow, securing record-sized ibex and massive Asiatic wapiti, which they carefully skin and preserve for museum collections despite severe weather and sudden rockslides.

The climax of the journey takes place in the high, frozen expanses of the Pamir Mountains—the legendary "Roof of the World." Driven by the primary goal of the expedition, the hunters endure freezing gales and thick mountain fogs to stalk the magnificent, spiral-horned Ovis poli. Navigating the delicate borders between Chinese and Russian territories, they track herds through deep snowdrifts, facing blizzards and physical exhaustion until they successfully secure their prized specimens. Their objective achieved, the expedition turns southward, descending through the rugged mountain domains of local rulers, braving shattered trails and failing equipment, until they finally return safely to Kashmir.

How It Unfolds

Preparations and departure The journey begins with frantic preparations, packing lists, and complex transport arrangements across oceans. Back home, family members manage wild cougar hounds and heavy gear before the equipment is shipped directly to Karachi.

Ascent into the Himalayas Setting out from Kashmir, the expedition climbs toward the Zoji La pass alongside colorful mountain caravans. Monasteries cling to distant cliffs, and the travelers cross from Moslem valleys into the Buddhist strongholds of Ladakh.

Hunters in high barrens At Panamik, the party bathes in hot soda springs and negotiates for yaks with local pony-owners. They venture into steep, brown ridges to stalk swift burrhel alongside native mountain guides who are as tough as leather.

Crossing the final barrier A long caravan of over a hundred animals winds up mist-cloaked peaks to conquer the treacherous Sanju Pass. Deep snows nearly trap the expedition, but they clear the pass just before it closes, descending into the plains of Turkestan.

Deserts, serais, and oases Travel along ancient trade routes introduces dirty caravansaries, evening ballads by local musicians, and relentless desert pests. The route weaves past sun-scorched rocks, advancing sand dunes, and the grim sights of medieval prison life.

Into the Tian Shan The landscape changes dramatically as the hunters reach green prairies and mountain gorges filled with fir trees. Traversing treacherous glaciers and icy cliffs, they hunt massive ibex and Asiatic wapiti through heavy rains and sudden rock avalanches.

Stalking on the Roof of the World Reaching the icy Pamir Mountains, the brothers push through freezing fog and waist-deep snow drifts to pursue the great spiral-horned Ovis poli. Despite blinding snowstorms and freezing temperatures, they successfully secure their primary scientific specimens.

The long journey home Descending from the high Pamirs, the expedition travels through mountain states damaged by severe windstorms. They rely on local hospitality, navigate crumbling trails with disintegrating shotguns, and eventually reach Gilgit and Kashmir.

The People

• Theodore Roosevelt seeks to lead a successful scientific expedition, overcome severe mountain weather, and secure big-game specimens for museum display; despite dangerous river crossings and freezing mud, he remains cheerful and succeeds in taking massive wapiti and ibex.
• Kermit Roosevelt wants to track elusive game across extreme terrain and maintain caravan progress; facing physical exhaustion, misheard calls of danger, and freezing snowstorms, he pushes through long stalks to claim record ibex and Ovis poli.
• Suydam Cutting and George Cherrie seek to support the expedition's scientific mission through surveying and small-mammal collecting; Cherrie tirelessly sets traps and repairs failing gear in camp every night, while Cutting handles heavy logistics and box-marking.
• Rahima and Khalil want to guide the brothers safely through dangerous precipices and spot hidden game; relying on exceptional mountain eyesight and endurance, they navigate treacherous scree and avalanches, ending up triumphant alongside the hunters.
• Nadir Beg seeks to efficiently manage the advance caravan through high mountain territory; his firm leadership ensures baggage and food reach remote snow huts before severe weather sets in.

In Its Own Voice

"The bath was a great luxury, for it was the first hot water we had had for about four weeks."

Theodore remarks on the rare comfort of finding a hot soda spring at Panamik while traveling through Ladakh.

"They crossed what looked like an impassable precipice, springing from rock to ledge with apparent ease."

Kermit describes the incredible agility of a herd of ibex fleeing up a sheer cliff near the Muzart glacier.

"Their great spiral horns flared out magnificently, their heads were held high. Every line was clear cut against the white of the snow."

Theodore captures the breathtaking sight of giant Ovis poli rams running through deep snowdrifts in the Pamirs.

What It's Really About

At its core, the narrative explores the relentless human drive to penetrate the earth's most remote corners in pursuit of natural knowledge and sport. It contrasts the ancient, slow-moving rhythms of Central Asian trade routes with the methodical, high-stakes precision of an early twentieth-century scientific expedition. Underneath the daily thrills of the hunt lie deeper questions about endurance, team reliance, and human vulnerability when matched against indifferent, unyielding wilderness. The book documents a transition period in exploration, where ancient caravans meets modern scientific collecting, capturing a world of open frontiers, harsh local governance, and unmapped mountain passes that was soon to vanish forever.

Why Read It Today

Readers who enjoy classical travelogues, wilderness survival, and historic alpine exploration will find this record deeply engaging. Reading it feels like sitting beside a crackling campfire after an exhausting day on the trail; the prose is clean, direct, and unpretentious, grounding every high-altitude struggle in precise visual detail. You share the biting cold of freezing drifts, the welcome warmth of tea in a Kirghiz yourt, and the sudden adrenaline of a mountain avalanche.

Modern readers should remain mindful of period realities. The expedition operates firmly within early twentieth-century views on big-game hunting, where collecting wild specimens involved heavy shooting that contrasts with today's conservation standards. Additionally, the narrative reflects the stark, unvarnished perspectives of foreign travelers encountering medieval prison systems and impoverished local villages. Yet for those who appreciate authentic history, raw adventure, and rugged landscapes, the journey offers an unforgettable glimpse into the wild heart of Asia.