Eight days in New-Orleans in February, 1847

In Short

This travelogue serves as a time capsule, documenting a brief 1847 sojourn in New Orleans. The author captures the city at a pivotal moment, balancing historical reflection with an observant eye for contemporary life. From the solemnity of the Cathedral to the cacophony of the bustling levee, the narrative catalogs the commerce, culture, and diverse populations that converged in the "Crescent City." It has endured as a primary record of the antebellum South’s urban character, providing a rare, immediate perspective on the social atmosphere and infrastructure of a rapidly expanding American gateway.

The Story

The narrative begins with the author’s arrival in New Orleans, framed by a necessary grounding in the region’s turbulent past. Before examining the bustling streets of 1847, the author traces the river’s history, from the tragic, secretive burial of Hernando de Soto in the Mississippi’s depths to the subsequent, often failed, attempts of European explorers to claim the delta. This historical prologue serves to emphasize the sheer resilience required to build a city upon such a shifting, challenging landscape.

The focus then narrows to the rise of the city under shifting colonial hands—French, Spanish, and finally American—and the enduring shadows of early disasters, such as fire and yellow fever. The author highlights the pivotal Battle of New Orleans, positioning General Andrew Jackson as the singular force who salvaged the city’s future through sheer strength of will when local morale had collapsed.

Moving into the 1847 present, the author transitions from historical summary to active observation. The reader is guided through the city’s architectural landmarks, most notably the ancient, dim Cathedral and the dedicated labor of the Sisters of Charity in their orphanages. The narrative expands to cover the technical marvels of the day, including the U.S. Branch Mint and the ambitious water works system, before descending into the vibrant, crowded markets where the bounty of the Mississippi Valley is displayed.

As the trip progresses, the author paints a portrait of a city that never sleeps. The theaters, the masked revelry of Mardi Gras, and the constant movement of drays and steamboats reveal a population that is increasingly international, wealthy, and hedonistic. The final arc of the journey coincides with Washington’s Birthday, an event that allows the author to reflect on the city's patriotic integration of various European immigrant groups. Yet, even amidst the parades and celebrations, an undercurrent of national anxiety persists, as news of the Mexican-American War looms over the festivities. The journey concludes with a look toward the future, as the author imagines the city’s inevitable expansion into the surrounding countryside, cementing its status as the eventual queen city of the continent.

How It Unfolds

The historical foundation The author establishes the city's context by recounting the grim fate of De Soto and the later, arduous efforts of French and Spanish explorers. This section frames New Orleans as a site of long-standing struggle against both nature and colonial instability.

The Jacksonian crucible The narrative examines the defense of the city during the War of 1812, emphasizing the dire circumstances faced by the commander. It argues that the city’s modern prosperity was only made possible by this singular, improbable military success.

The institutional landscape The author shifts to a guided tour of public life, exploring the solemnity of the Cathedral and the benevolent work of the Sisters of Charity. These descriptions highlight the intersection of religious tradition and the pressing humanitarian needs of the growing population.

The machinery of commerce Detailed observations of the Mint, the water works, and the overflowing markets provide a technical look at the city’s growth. These chapters underscore the industrial ambition that transformed the city into a global trade hub.

The social spectacle The book concludes with a vivid depiction of the city’s nightlife, the French theaters, and the public displays of the Carnival. The final scenes capture a city in the midst of celebration, juxtaposed against the backdrop of an ongoing war and the author’s vision of future expansion.

The People

The narrative is driven more by historical figures and archetypes than by personal companions. Don Andre Almonoster looms as a ghostly presence, his name and legacy tied to the Cathedral through a haunting, perpetual demand for prayer that the author finds both solemn and curious. General Andrew Jackson emerges as the book’s hero, portrayed as a "commander by the creation of his Maker" whose iron resolve prevented the city's collapse during its darkest hour. The Sisters of Charity represent the city’s moral and social core; they are depicted as selfless, tireless figures who find "pleasures" in the heavy burden of caring for orphans. Finally, the Governor of Louisiana appears as a figurehead of the city’s burgeoning identity, a majestic and "straight" leader whose public presence during the Washington’s Birthday parade symbolizes the pride and stability of the state, even while the nation is engaged in conflict elsewhere.

In Its Own Voice

To conceal his body from the brutalities of the natives, it was encased in an oaken trough, and silently plunged in the middle of the channel, at the dark and gloomy hour of midnight, and the muddy waters washed the bones of one of the noblest sons of Spain!

The author recounts the death of Hernando de Soto, marking the first time a European found a grave in the Mississippi.

In a conversation with the Duke of Wellington, not long since, that distinguished soldier remarked to Col. King, our Ex-Minister to France, "that taking into account the disparagement of the opposite forces and the number slain on either side, the battle of New Orleans was unrivalled in the annals of warfare."

The author cites a high-level military opinion to validate the historical significance of the battle.

What It's Really About

The central theme is the triumph of human enterprise over an inhospitable, fluid environment. The author views the city as a "magnificent emporium" destined for greatness, constantly overcoming the "impediments" of colonial mismanagement, disease, and geography. Underlying the descriptions is an argument for American manifest destiny, as the author tracks the rapid statistical growth of the city as proof of the superiority of the American system after the 1803 purchase. The book also implicitly questions the cost of such progress, noting the harsh conditions of labor and the ever-present threat of yellow fever, yet always concluding that the commercial and cultural rewards are worth the struggle of this "Crescent City."

Why Read It Today

Readers interested in the history of the American South or the evolution of urban identity will find this a fascinating, if dated, primary source. It captures the specific sensory details of 1840s life—the sound of the doleful Cathedral bell, the smell of the market, and the sight of diamonds in a theater dress circle. However, a modern reader must be prepared for the author’s period-specific, uncritical attitudes toward slavery and his occasionally dismissive tone regarding non-American cultural groups. The writing style is earnest and florid, typical of the mid-19th century, which provides an authentic "voice of the era" experience but can be dense for those accustomed to modern, minimalist prose. What remains with the reader is the author’s profound sense of wonder at the sheer speed of change; his prediction that New Orleans would one day "encompass within her limits every town and hamlet for miles around" mirrors the obsession with growth that continues to define the American urban experience. It is a rewarding read for those who want to see the past not through a historical textbook, but through the eyes of a contemporary traveler who is genuinely, perhaps even naively, struck by the grandeur of what he sees.