Following the Equator: A Journey Around the World. Part 4

In Short

This book documents an extensive lecture tour that spans New Zealand, Australia, and India, serving as both a travel diary and a collection of biting cultural critiques. Through a series of vignettes, the narrative explores the ironies of colonial expansion, the peculiarities of local laws, and the persistent, often humorous, failures of human nature. It has endured as a classic because it blends the intimacy of a personal journey with the sharp, cynical intellect of its narrator, capturing the shifting global landscape of the late nineteenth century with unparalleled clarity and warmth.

The Story

The journey unfolds as a deliberate, zigzagging exploration of the Southern Hemisphere. The narrator lands in New Zealand, where he is immediately struck by the contradictions of colonial life—such as the rabbit plague, which illustrates how misguided environmental management can undermine the very fabric of society. He observes the "fast" trains that barely move, the monopoly of local shipping companies that exploit passengers, and the complex, often tragic history of the Maori people. He views these developments with a skeptical eye, noting how British colonial rule attempted to balance progress with the displacement of native populations.

As he moves into Australia, the narrative shifts to the heat and the peculiar geography of the colonies. He explores the infrastructure of the rail systems—which he finds comically inefficient—and takes note of the strange, musical names of the towns, which he later transforms into a whimsical poem. Amidst the sweltering heat, he reflects on the ambitions of the Australian people, their growing desire for political independence, and the surprising cultural richness found in their public galleries and art societies.

The voyage continues toward the tropical opulence of Ceylon and India. Here, the tone transitions from the observational humor of the earlier chapters to a more sensory, reflective experience. He is captivated by the vivid, harmonious colors of the local dress, which he contrasts sharply with the "ugly" and "barbarous" Western clothing imposed by missionary schools. He finds himself caught between deep appreciation for the landscape and a restless, weary irritation with the noise and chaos of urban life. Throughout his stay, he encounters the local fauna—such as the persistent, gossiping crows—and reflects on the religious and social customs of the people he meets.

The narrative arc is not one of a hero’s transformation, but rather of a deepening understanding of the world’s complexities. By the time he leaves for his next destination, the narrator has moved from a position of detached observation to one of contemplative engagement. He concludes that while human progress is often a story of blunders, conflicts, and oddities, there is an enduring, vibrant beauty in the world that persists despite the mismanagement of governments and the rigid, often foolish, impositions of "civilization." The book ends not with a final resolution, but with the quiet acknowledgment that memory and experience are fluid, spanning distances and lifetimes in the blink of an eye.

How It Unfolds

Arrival in the Southern latitudes The journey begins at the southern tip of New Zealand, where the narrator finds that the climate defies his expectations. He immediately encounters the local rabbit infestation, using it as a humorous lens to examine the unintended consequences of colonial policy.

The frustration of travel The narrative details the absurdities of local logistics, from "express" trains that move at a glacial pace to monopolistic shipping lines that cheat their passengers. These experiences highlight the bureaucratic incompetence and the lack of competition that define life in these remote colonies.

Reflections on culture and history During his time in Christchurch, Nelson, and Auckland, the narrator visits museums and historical sites, offering a nuanced view of Maori history. He critiques the hypocrisy of colonial monuments and the "semi-civilization" that resulted from the British occupation.

The Australian heat and nomenclature Moving into Australia, the focus shifts to the intense climate and the distinct, lyrical quality of the local place names. The narrator uses this opportunity to comment on the nature of patriotism and the desire for colonial autonomy.

The splendor of the East The final leg of the journey lands in the lush, vibrant environment of Ceylon and India. The narrator experiences a profound sensory overload, contrasting the grace of native customs against the drab, stifling nature of European influence.

The People

The narrator serves as the primary lens through which the reader views these foreign worlds. He is a man of intellectual curiosity, deeply skeptical of authority and prone to finding the humor in life’s most frustrating moments. He wants to understand the "why" behind the oddities he encounters, though he is often thwarted by his own physical ailments—like a nagging cough—or the sheer unpredictability of travel.

The people he meets—from the "prime and pious" missionaries who impose their dress codes on local children to the "nobly-built" laborers in India—are presented as vignettes rather than static characters. He holds the Maoris in high regard for their military ingenuity and cultural resilience, contrasting their dignity with the "landsharks" who sought to swindle them. He also observes the "moral wrecks" reclaimed by the Salvation Army, finding in them a testament to the persistent capacity for human change. Throughout, he remains a sympathetic witness to those who are struggling, yet he never loses his edge when observing the powerful, the bureaucratic, or the simply ridiculous.

In Its Own Voice

The cold weather is not very cold, the hot weather is not very hot; and the difference between the hottest month and the coldest is but 17 degrees Fahrenheit.

The narrator describes the surprisingly temperate climate of Bluff, New Zealand, while comparing its latitude to Quebec.

In republics, neither the government nor the rich private citizen is much given to propagating art.

The narrator reflects on the unexpected flourishing of art societies in the colonies of Australasia.

Those clothes--oh, they were unspeakably ugly! Ugly, barbarous, destitute of taste, destitute of grace, repulsive as a shroud.

The narrator reacts with strong distaste to seeing native children forced to wear Western-style clothing in Ceylon.

What It's Really About

At its core, this book is an inquiry into the nature of "civilization" and the often-absurd disconnect between human ambition and actual results. The author questions the morality of conquest and the arrogance with which empires impose their customs on other cultures. Through his travels, he interrogates the value of progress, noting that what looks like advancement—railroads, missionary schools, or bureaucratic legislation—often masks profound foolishness or cruelty. It asks whether we, as humans, are capable of learning from our mistakes or if we are doomed to repeat them, whether in the form of "unperfected tapeworms" or the "moral fabric" of a cat. It is a meditation on the permanence of human eccentricity.

Why Read It Today

Readers who appreciate a sharp, observational wit will find much to admire here. The narrative feels remarkably modern in its skepticism of corporate monopolies and bureaucratic overreach, and the author’s descriptive power—especially regarding the vibrant colors of India—remains vivid and immersive. It is a book for those who enjoy the journey more than the destination, offering a rhythmic, conversational style that makes the reader feel like a traveling companion.

However, a contemporary reader should be prepared for the realities of the text. It contains the casual, sometimes jarring, period attitudes toward race and culture common to the late nineteenth century. The author’s perspectives on the Maori and other native populations are, for the time, relatively enlightened, yet they are still filtered through a colonial lens. The book is also quite long, filled with tangents and digressions that may test the patience of a reader looking for a tight, fast-paced plot. Nevertheless, if you are willing to embrace the author’s meandering, opinionated voice, you will find a rewarding portrait of a world in transition, captured by a master of the English language who understood that even in the most serious of times, there is always room for a laugh at our own expense.