From England to Iceland

In Short

Part travelogue and part social commentary, From England to Iceland follows a Victorian businessman on a summer steamship voyage to the remote North Atlantic. Setting out from Scotland aboard the Camoens, George Charles Sim journeys past the Westmann Islands to Reykjavík and into the volcanic interior. Through vivid observations of local customs, political history, and thermal landscapes, he records a resilient community thriving in isolation. The book remains a fascinating historical snapshot of nineteenth-century Arctic travel, offering clear insights into Icelandic society and the practical realities of Victorian maritime exploration.

The Story

George Charles Sim opens his journey aboard the steamship Camoens, sailing out of Granton toward the icy reaches of the North Atlantic. He frames his expedition not as a scientific survey or an adventurous quest, but as the summer holiday of a observant businessman keen to experience unfamiliar corners of the globe. As the vessel pushes higher into the northern latitudes, the daily routine of sea life gives way to the wonder of the midnight sun. The glowing disc hovers above the horizon without setting, painting the surrounding waters and distant snow-capped peaks in vibrant shades of gold, pink, and purple.

Approaching the coast of Iceland, the ship passes the treacherous sandbars of Orœfa and the dramatic basaltic formations of Portland Point. The captain drops anchor off the Westmann Islands, offering Sim his first close view of the island’s inhabitants. He marvels at the national head-dress worn by the women—the silk or wool hufa—and the sturdy sheepskin shoes used by the men. Here, Sim pauses to recount the history of the island, tracing its origins back to ninth-century Irish monks and Norwegian settlers who established an independent commonwealth.

Disembarking at Reykjavík, Sim finds a quiet, almost eerily silent capital where ships float idly in the roadstead. He arranges for guide Thorgrimur Gudmundsen to supply ponies for an expedition into the interior. Before setting out, Sim spends an evening at the local hotel participating in a musical "Sing Song" alongside fellow travelers, local newspaper figures, and a ostentatiously dressed American tourist.

The party sets off on horseback across barren lava fields and frost-mounded landscapes. They trek through rain and mist toward Thingvellir, the ancient plain surrounded by dramatic chasms where the Althing parliament first met in 929. Sim explores the historic Lögberg, or Law Hill, reflecting on how early settlers codified laws and transitioned from Paganism to Christianity. Moving further inland, he inspects the famous Geysirs, including Strokr and the dormant Great Geysir, comparing them critically to hydrothermal wonders he has witnessed in New Zealand and America. Along the way, he stops at local farms, gathering detailed notes on the island's agricultural practices, livestock values, educational traditions, and legendary hospitality.

On the return leg past Mount Snaefell and through coastal ports like Akureyri, Sim visits the agricultural college at Mödruvellir. He reflects on how past trade monopolies suppressed farming in favor of fishing, urging modern land reforms. Returning to the coast, he watches the ship’s crew lower hundreds of ponies safely into the hold for export to Scotland, concluding his voyage with deep respect for the island's honest, hardworking populace.

How It Unfolds

The Arctic voyage begins Departing from Granton aboard the steamship Camoens, the travelers cross the North Atlantic under the eerie, brilliant glow of the midnight sun. The captain guides the ship past dangerous reefs, water-worn basalt arches, and the volcanic hazards of the southern coast.

First encounters at the Westmann Islands Anchoring near Heimaey, Sim observes traditional Icelandic attire, including the silk-tasseled hufa caps and sturdy sheepskin footwear. He studies the island's turf-walled homes and reflects on historical records detailing early Irish and Norwegian settlements.

Arrival in Reykjavík and preparation The ship anchors off a strikingly quiet capital city, where Sim hires guide Thorgrimur Gudmundsen to organize a pony trek into the interior. After an enjoyable evening of music at a local hotel, the party prepares their equipment for the rough terrain ahead.

Trekking across the lava wastes The expedition rides across stone-strewn lava deserts and narrow rain channels, following cairns and trail marks carved into the rock. They navigate steep mountain paths to reach the historic rift valley of Thingvellir.

Standing at the ancient Althing At the Lögberg, Sim examines the deep water-filled fissures surrounding the natural amphitheater where Icelanders established their first parliament in 929. He contemplates the centuries of law, political history, and religious transitions enacted on the grassy mound.

Observing thermal springs and country life The party travels to the spouting Geysirs, triggering eruptions at Strokr while evaluating the local economy, farming methods, and high literacy rates maintained by rural families.

Homeward journey and pony trade Retracing their steps past Lake Thingvallavatn and coastal fjords, Sim visits an agricultural college before watching the ship's crew expertly load hundreds of Icelandic ponies into the hold for the voyage back to Scotland.

The People

• George Charles Sim: The author and narrator, an inquisitive Victorian businessman and seasoned world traveler. He views the journey through a practical lens, keen to study foreign trade, civil governance, and local customs while enjoying his summer holiday.
• The Captain of the Camoens: A warm, obliging shipmaster who ensures passenger safety across fog-bound Arctic routes. He entertains the passengers with his violin and shares colorful, informative lore regarding Icelandic navigation, trade, and social habits.
• Thorgrimur Gudmundsen: A tall, exceptionally capable Icelandic guide standing over six feet in height. He organizes the expedition's pony trains, navigates the treacherous lava fields, and introduces the travelers to local customs and historical landmarks.
• Dr. Jon A. Hjaltalin: An educated Icelandic scholar, author, and head of the agricultural college at Mödruvellir. He provides Sim with deep historical insights into early settlement, trade monopolies, and the vital necessity of modern agricultural education.
• The American Tourist: A flamboyantly dressed young traveler encountered in a Reykjavík hotel. Dressed in braided velveteen, tight knee-breeches, and silver buckles, his grand appearance and dramatic presence provide a humorous contrast to the rugged environment.

In Its Own Voice

"Deeper and deeper it sank, assuming a fiery red colour, and painting the snow-covered mountains with the most delicate touches of pink and purple."

Sim watches the breathtaking approach of the midnight sun while standing on the deck of the steamship.

"Imagine a low one-storied building, irregular in shape... the walls, built principally of rough undressed lava stones, imbedded in layers of turf which bind them together and fill up the chinks, are thick and substantial."

The author details the traditional architecture and turf construction of rural Icelandic dwellings.

"There is no path through this lava-desert, but the route is indicated by the scratches and marks made upon the rocks by the shoes of the trains of ponies that daily travel to and fro..."

Sim describes the rugged terrain and subtle landmarks guiding travelers across the interior wilderness.

What It's Really About

Beneath its narrative of coastal steamers and pony treks, From England to Iceland explores how human communities maintain cultural identity, order, and dignity in extreme isolation. Sim continuously contrasts the brutal, volcanic landscape with the deep civility of the Icelandic people. He highlights their absolute honesty, high literacy rates, and long tradition of self-governance dating back to the assembly at Thingvellir. As a nineteenth-century business mind, he also investigates how historical monopolies hindered agricultural progress, arguing that education and economic self-reliance are essential for any society to flourish. Ultimately, the book examines the balance between raw nature and human resilience, celebrating a quiet society that thrives on the fringe of the Arctic.

Why Read It Today

From England to Iceland offers a delightful, unpretentious window into late-nineteenth-century travel culture. Readers who enjoy classic travel Literature, historical geography, or Scandinavian history will find Sim’s practical, observant style deeply appealing. His narrative strikes a pleasing balance between sweeping descriptions of Arctic landscapes—such as midnight skies and steam-filled geysers—and precise reporting on local housing, livestock trade, and social customs.

The book’s appeal lies in its authentic, straightforward voice. Sim writes without grandiosity or dramatic exaggeration; he measures geothermal springs with a critical eye, writes warmly of the people he meets, and includes amusing anecdotes about aboard-ship musical gatherings and stubborn pack ponies. Modern readers should note that the text reflects typical Victorian framing, including frequent comparisons to British institutions and brief digressions into global economic affairs. However, these period elements only add to its charm as a historical document. Reading it feels like flipping through a well-preserved travel journal, leaving you with an enduring appreciation for Iceland’s austere beauty and the historic warmth of its people.