Glaciers of the Rockies and Selkirks, 2nd. ed.: With Notes on Five Great Glaciers of the Canadian National Parks

In Short

This text is a foundational guide to the mechanics, landscape, and observational history of the glaciers in the Canadian Rockies and Selkirks. Written in the early twentieth century by pioneering geologist A. P. Coleman and expanded by topographer A. O. Wheeler, it walks readers through mountain ecosystems, explains how snow compresses into ice and moves under gravity, and catalogs specific field sites accessible by rail. It endures as an authentic snapshot of alpine geography, combining rigorous geological field notes with an infectious appreciation for the wild high country.

The Story

The narrative opens along the path of the transcontinental railway, where travelers leave the dry western prairies and enter the formidable front wall of the Rocky Mountains. Although the low pass routes chosen by railway engineers provide only glimpses of the higher peaks, stepping off the train at mountain stations reveals a world dominated by ice. From these valley bases, the text leads the reader upward through distinct altitude zones, beginning in dense evergreen forests before crossing the timberline at roughly 7,500 feet. Here, dwarfed vegetation gives way to high alpine meadows carpeted with wild blossoms, which quickly yield to the permanent snowfields, or névés, that cap the ranges.

Having established the setting, the book details the life cycle and mechanical work of a glacier. It traces how year-round snow accumulation compresses underlying layers into dense, banded ice that slowly flows downward like a rigid yet plastic body. The text explains the structural features created by this movement: open bergschrund chasms where the snowfield pulls away from rock, dangerous crevasses and shattered ice pinnacles known as seracs over steep drops, surface meltwater streams plunging into vertical shafts called moulins, and the heavy loads of rock transported as marginal, medial, and terminal moraines. Beneath the ice, stones frozen into the sole act as grinding tools, polishing the bedrock floor and producing fine rock flour that turns glacial rivers a milky, opaque blue.

Moving from general mechanics to specific geography, the text surveys the primary icefields accessible to travelers. It details the contrasts between the drier eastern Rockies and the western Selkirk Range, where heavy Pacific moisture produces immense snowfalls and depresses the snowline. Key regions are systematically introduced, including Lake Louise, the Yoho Valley, the Selkirks near Rogers Pass, and the massive, remote Mount Robson district, where icefalls plunge directly into alpine lakes whose waters divide between the Pacific and Arctic drainage basins.

The closing section features systematic field notes by A. O. Wheeler documenting five major glaciers: the Yoho, Victoria, Wenkchemna, Illecillewaet, and Asulkan. Wheeler records precise historical measurements of surface flow rates and year-by-year margin fluctuations, noting that nearly all the region's glaciers are undergoing steady retreat, with rare exceptions caused by protective rock debris. The work concludes by placing these Canadian ranges alongside the European Alps, asserting their unique value as a vast, pristine wilderness for scientific study and personal renewal.

How It Unfolds

The approach to the heights The journey begins at the prairie edge, entering the mountain wall by rail and ascending on foot past the timberline into high alpine meadows.

The anatomy of ice in motion The text details how snow compresses into névé and ice, explaining the formation of bergschrunds, crevasses, and meltwater moulins as gravity pulls the mass downhill.

Sculpting the mountain floor The focus shifts to geological work, illustrating how glaciers carry rock moraines on their surface while scouring the bedrock beneath to create cirque basins and glacial rivers.

Surveys across the great ranges The narrative moves through key geographic regions, comparing the drier Canadian Rockies with the snowy Selkirks and highlighting major peaks like Mount Robson.

Field measurements of retreat A detailed observational survey tracks five specific glaciers, recording precise yearly rates of recession, ice flow velocity, and local terrain changes.

The People

A. P. Coleman The primary author and alpine enthusiast who seeks to explain the living machinery of the ice world to the public. He wants readers to experience the invigorating atmosphere of the high mountains, understand the geological forces that shaped the continent, and appreciate the scientific marvels of glacial erosion.

A. O. Wheeler The Director of the Alpine Club of Canada, who contributes detailed technical notes on specific glaciers. He wants to establish systematic, repeatable measurements of ice movement and recession, documenting environmental changes over time through physical markers and precise data collection.

The Vaux Family A family of nature photographers and researchers from Philadelphia—brothers George and William, and their sister Mary—who systematically mark boulders and photograph glacier snouts year after year. They want to gather precise empirical evidence of whether the ice is advancing or retreating, establishing a crucial historical baseline for the region.

The European and American Mountaineers Experienced climbers who travel to the Canadian ranges seeking the thrill of unexplored peaks. They want the challenge of virgin wilderness, using ice axes and ropes to navigate crevasses, negotiate seracs, and map territory untouched by previous surveys.

In Its Own Voice

"The plant just freed from their winter covering are all bursting into bloom together, bees are humming, butterflies lazily flutter past and a humming bird poises over a blossom..." — On the sudden explosion of life in high alpine meadows during the brief summer.

"There is a dazzling gleam on the moist, polished rock which craftsman Glacier has just handed over to the daylight..." — On the continuous sculpting and polishing of bedrock beneath moving ice.

"In its advance, it has encroached on the living forest and has crushed and thrown down the green timber." — Observing the rare advance of the Wenkchemna Glacier against surrounding woods.

What It's Really About

At its core, the book is an inquiry into the dynamic, living nature of the earth's surface. It reframes mountains not as static piles of rock, but as active geological workshops where ice, water, frost, and gravity continuously carve and reshape the terrain. By comparing the ancient Ice Age that molded Canada's prairies with the modern glaciers still at work in the high ranges, the text demonstrates that landscape formation is an ongoing process rather than a finished historical event. Beneath its practical guidebook structure lies a defense of wilderness preservation, arguing that direct contact with untamed alpine nature provides essential physical vigor and intellectual clarity.

Why Read It Today

This volume appeals to historical geography enthusiasts, hikers, and anyone fascinated by the natural history of North America. It offers a clear, highly readable vintage perspective on mountain exploration, writing with an unpretentious warmth that makes complex geological concepts instantly accessible.

Reading it today provides a poignant historical baseline. Because the authors recorded exact distances from marked boulders and specific landmarks in the early 1900s, modern readers gain a vivid sense of how significantly these icefields have altered over the past century.

The prose is straightforward and free of dense modern jargon, though it reflects the period's travel conditions, relying on mountain railways, packtrains, and early chalet networks. It captures a moment when the western ranges were transitioning from an uncharted wilderness into national parks, making it an engaging slice of historical field science.