Guide book to Williamsburg, old and new

In Short

This volume acts as a companion for visitors to Williamsburg, Virginia, during the early 1940s. It blends historical narrative with practical advice, detailing the town’s evolution from its origins as Middle Plantation to its role as a revolutionary capital and, eventually, a meticulously restored educational landmark. By emphasizing that Williamsburg is a living community rather than a mere museum, the text encourages a leisurely pace of exploration. It has endured as a primary source for understanding the ambitious restoration efforts initiated by John D. Rockefeller, Jr.

The Story

The narrative begins with the settlement of Middle Plantation in 1633, a strategic location between the James and York Rivers protected by a palisade. The story quickly centers on the establishment of the College of William and Mary, where the influential Rev. James Blair secured a charter and utilized the architectural vision of Sir Christopher Wren to create an intellectual heart for the colony. This early academic foundation provided the bedrock for the town’s later political prominence.

As the colonial government transitioned from the malarial conditions of Jamestown to the higher ground of Williamsburg, the town was formally laid out in 1699. The story follows the construction of the public institutions that defined the capital: the Capitol building, where democratic ideals were forged through debates involving George Washington and Thomas Jefferson; the Governor’s Palace, a symbol of royal authority that eventually hosted commonwealth leaders; and Bruton Parish Church, the spiritual anchor of the community. The author traces the growing friction between the Crown and its subjects, highlighting the Raleigh Tavern as a clandestine hub for revolutionary discourse and the Public Magazine as the site of the opening shots of the Revolution in Virginia.

Following the departure of the capital to Richmond in 1779, the town experienced a long period of relative stasis, which ironically allowed its architectural character to persist. The narrative then shifts to the modern era, detailing the monumental task of restoring these aging structures to their eighteenth-century glory. Through the efforts of Dr. W. A. R. Goodwin, who inspired the patronage of John D. Rockefeller, Jr., the town underwent a physical transformation. The author describes the painstaking process of uncovering original foundations, reconstructing lost buildings like the Governor’s Palace, and removing modern encroachments to reclaim the colonial atmosphere.

The account concludes by addressing the realities of Williamsburg during the 1940s—a small, historic town suddenly surrounded by wartime military installations and a swelling population. It depicts a place that must balance its identity as a repository of American heritage with its function as a modern, accessible community. By documenting both the restored sites and the surrounding modern developments, the story portrays Williamsburg not as a static relic, but as a place that successfully reconciles its past with the demands of the present.

How It Unfolds

The colonial foundations The narrative establishes the geographical and political necessity of moving the capital from Jamestown to Middle Plantation. It outlines the vision of the early planners who created a city centered on the College of William and Mary.

The center of revolution The author details the construction of the Capitol and the Raleigh Tavern, positioning them as the crucibles of American political thought. These buildings serve as the stage for the escalating tension between colonial leaders and the Royal Governors.

The architecture of authority The focus shifts to the Governor’s Palace and the Public Magazine, illustrating the physical manifestation of both royal power and colonial resistance. The account traces how these structures witnessed the final breakdown of foreign rule in Virginia.

The mission of preservation The text highlights the pivotal intervention of Dr. W. A. R. Goodwin and John D. Rockefeller, Jr. in rescuing the town from neglect. It explores the philosophical and practical challenges of restoration, including the choice between preserving original fabric and reconstructing lost landmarks.

The living city The final section addresses the town’s role during the war years of the 1940s. It provides a snapshot of a community balancing its duty to preserve historical integrity with the daily needs of citizens and visitors in a rapidly changing world.

The People

Dr. James Blair emerges as the most formidable figure of the early period, a man of intense conviction who served simultaneously as a college president, judge, and church rector. His struggles with Royal Governors—including a dramatic incident involving a schoolboy "lock-out" and a gun—illustrate the combative nature of colonial leadership. Lord Botetourt is presented as a more sympathetic character; though forced by duty to act against the interests of the colonists, his personal integrity earned him the lasting respect of the people of Virginia.

The restoration is largely attributed to Dr. W. A. R. Goodwin, whose deep, long-standing connection to Bruton Parish Church drove his vision of the town’s preservation. His partnership with John D. Rockefeller, Jr. is the catalyst for the town's physical renewal. Throughout the text, the author also highlights the anonymous laborers, researchers, and local residents who lived, worked, and debated in these spaces. Figures like the poet and shopkeeper Dr. Jesse Cole provide a human element to the history, representing the continuity of the town’s social life from the nineteenth century into the era of the restoration. These individuals, whether famous statesmen or local proprietors, collectively define the character of the town that the reader is invited to discover.

In Its Own Voice

Regarding the visitor's mindset:

If you come from New York or Chicago don’t think of going inside any ancient building until you have spent at least one day in getting calmed down to our tempo and learning to wander about instead of hustling.

Regarding the legacy of the restoration:

It has been suggested that an appropriate epitaph, referring not alone to the church but to the community, would be: If you would see his monument, look about you.

Regarding the eclectic nature of the town’s oldest shop:

There is not an Article whatever in the World which could not be found in it.

What It's Really About

The central argument of the book is that history is not merely found in archives but is embedded in the physical environment. The restoration is presented as a vital educational mission intended to reconnect modern Americans with the intellectual and political origins of their democracy. The author grapples with the tension between "authenticity"—the desire to see the past as it truly was—and the practical compromises required to maintain a functional, modern town. The book questions how a society values its heritage and whether a place can truly serve as both a living community and a monument to the ideals of the founders.

Why Read It Today

Readers who enjoy architectural history or the slow, deliberate pace of a travelogue will find much to admire here. It provides a unique, window-in-time perspective on the Williamsburg restoration project during its formative mid-twentieth-century years. The author’s writing is precise and deeply affectionate, capturing the specific mood of the town before the era of mass tourism transformed it into a global destination.

However, readers should be prepared for the book's period-specific context; the author reflects the social and political attitudes of the early 1940s, and the text occasionally adopts a tone of patriotic reverence toward the colonial founders that was common to its era. The book is not an exhaustive scholarly tome, but rather a warm, informative invitation to experience the town’s atmosphere. It will appeal most to those who appreciate the quiet dignity of a well-preserved street and the stories that haunt old houses. If you are interested in the evolution of historic preservation as a discipline, or simply want a companion that encourages you to step off the grid and appreciate a place that demands you "get into the spirit of the place," this book remains an insightful and charming guide.