Haifa

In Short

Originally written as a series of letters for the New York Sun over three years of residency, this book offers a detailed firsthand examination of nineteenth-century Palestine. Laurence Oliphant bridges the gap between scholarly, technical surveys and popular travel writing. Moving beyond standard tourist routes, he explores classical and biblical sites, documents recent archaeological discoveries, and analyzes the agricultural and economic developments changing the region. His account captures the lived realities of diverse local populations—including Druse, Jewish, Moslem, and Christian communities—alongside the struggles of foreign agricultural settlers, offering a remarkably grounded perspective on a region in rapid transition.

The Story

The book opens with an introduction setting out the author's intent: to provide an insider's view of Palestine that fills the space between brief tourist impressions and overly technical, expensive scientific reports. Settling near Mount Carmel, the narrative establishes its baseline in Haifa, documenting the arrival and stubborn perseverance of the German Temple Society. These European settlers, seeking to build agricultural communities, face harsh climate conditions, unfamiliar farming practices, local skepticism, and opposition from regional authorities and local monastic orders. Despite these formidable obstacles, their effort expands to Jaffa, Sarona, and Jerusalem, establishing a recurring theme of modern enterprise taking root in ancient soil.

From his base in Galilee, Oliphant embarks on extensive field excursions across the countryside. He investigates ancient burial caves, crawling on hands and knees through narrow passages to inspect tiers of rock-cut chambers, while noting the earlier marks left by British military surveyors. His travels take him across the fertile Plain of Esdraelon, where he describes the massive scale of agricultural operations dominated by the Ottoman Sultan and wealthy Beyrout banking families like the Sursocks. Here, he highlights the economic pressures driving the movement for modern infrastructure, such as proposed railways to transport grain from the Hauran to coastal ports.

The narrative frequently turns to the cultural and religious life of Mount Carmel and the surrounding towns. Oliphant visits the Carmelite monastery overlooking the sea, detailing its history, its financial operations through the sale of indulgences, and its role under French protection. In ancient ports like Acre, he retells dramatic historical episodes from the eras of brutal governors like Jezzar Pacha, "The Butcher," while evaluating the town's reduced modern fortunes. In Shefr Amr, he observes a mixed population of Greek Christians, Moslems, Druses, and native Jews living amid decaying medieval fortresses offered for sale by the government.

As the journey expands across Galilee and Judea, Oliphant records unique cultural gatherings. He attends Druse council gatherings marked by elaborate, highly stylized etiquette and mutual compliments, and observes vibrant Jewish religious festivals at Tiberias and Safed, noting the distinct social divisions between Sephardic and Ashkenazic communities. To escape the oppressive summer heat, he describes constructing a permanent stone home at the hill village of Daliet-el-Carmel, detailing the practicalities and local social dynamics of building on Mount Carmel.

The latter portion of the account moves through the Jordan Valley, the Sea of Galilee, and Judea. Oliphant identifies forgotten synagogue ruins, measures ancient aqueducts around Jericho, and critiques administrative policies that hinder local education and development. He records dramatic personal interactions, such as tense encounters with local holy men and vivid portrayals of local customs, including a three-day Druse wedding celebration followed by a stark family feud. The work concludes with observations on the ongoing, inevitable transformation of Palestine, driven by foreign capital, infrastructure, and changing imperial governance.

How It Unfolds

A resident's perspective The author outlines his plan to share three years of resident observations, translating technical survey findings into accessible dispatches on Palestine's topography and history.

The Templar settlements German colonists establish an agricultural village near Haifa, confronting harsh climate, hostile local authorities, and monastic opposition to build a successful enterprise that expands across the region.

Exploring ancient tombs Squeezing through choked rock openings on hands and knees, the writer inspects ancient embalming chambers and loculi, noting former visits by Royal Engineers.

Grain of Esdraelon A tour across the great plain reveals vast grain holdings managed by Syrian bankers and the Sultan, underscoring the urgent economic pull for a modern railway to the coast.

Monastery on Carmel The author details the history and influence of the rebuilt Carmelite monastery, noting its financial revenue, political protection under France, and memories of past military massacres.

Tales of Acre Reflections on the historic port town bring forth stories of past Egyptian occupations and the tyrannical rule of Jezzar Pacha, handed down by descendants of his inner court.

Druse hospitality Welcomed into a mountain council house, the writer experiences the elaborate, formal salutations, coffee rituals, and distinct social politeness characteristic of Druse leadership.

Festivals of Galilee At Tiberias, the narrative captures chaotic religious celebrations and sharp cultural divides between Sephardic and Ashkenazic pilgrims gathered at sacred sites.

Building on Carmel Seeking shelter from severe summer heat, the writer undertakes the construction of a permanent stone retreat at Daliet-el-Carmel, observing local labor and rural life.

Aqueducts of Jericho An inspection of the Jordan Valley highlights extensive ancient irrigation networks and aqueducts, demonstrating the extraordinary agricultural potential left dormant by poor administration.

A Druse wedding and tragedy The narrative describes three days of loud wedding celebrations and village processions, which are soon contrasted by a grim local dispute following a broken betrothal.

The People

• Laurence Oliphant: The author and observant resident, who spends three years travelling through Palestine, exploring ruins, engaging with diverse communities, and documenting the region's changing physical and social landscape.
• The German Templars: A dedicated group of Christian agricultural colonists led initially by figures like Mr. Hoffman and Mr. Hartegg, who struggle against local opposition, harsh climate, and bureaucratic hurdles to establish flourishing settlements at Haifa, Jaffa, and Jerusalem.
• Captain Conder: A Royal Engineers officer whose extensive field surveys for the Palestine Exploration Fund provide the baseline scientific data and architectural discoveries that the author frequently consults and popularizes.
• The Sursock Family: Wealthy Beyrout bankers who own vast tracts of the Plain of Esdraelon, driving local grain transport and advocating for railway development to connect inland crops to coastal ports.
• Jezzar Pacha ("The Butcher"): The infamous former Governor of Acre and Sidon whose ruthless historic rule and sudden rise from slavery form the basis of local oral histories told in Acre.
• Sheik Saleh: A wealthy Druse village leader at Mount Carmel whose family betrothal and domestic affairs offer a vivid look into local customary law and community life.

In Its Own Voice

"The experience and investigation of the last three years, however, have only served to convince me that the field of research is far from being exhausted..." Reflecting on the vast potential for future archaeological excavations across the Holy Land.

"In order to get from one chamber to another it was often necessary to drag yourself along at full length upon the ground." Describing the physical exertion required to explore unexcavated rock tombs.

"As, with the exception of the Japanese, the Druses are the politest and most courteous people I have ever met, a great part of our time is taken up in salutations and compliments." Observing the refined social etiquette during a formal meeting with village sheiks.

What It's Really About

Beneath its detailed descriptions of ruins and landscapes, the book argues that Palestine is a living country poised on the threshold of modern economic and social transformation. It contrasts the static, traditional governance of the Ottoman administration with the energetic, albeit difficult, introduction of Western agricultural methods and infrastructure investments. Oliphant examines how historical memory, religious tradition, and physical geography shape the daily realities of its diverse populations. He explores the tension between preserving ancient heritage and embracing technological progress, such as railways and improved irrigation. Ultimately, the work frames Palestine not merely as a museum of biblical history, but as an active arena of geopolitical interest, cultural diversity, and latent material wealth waiting to be developed.

Why Read It Today

Modern readers interested in travel literature, Middle Eastern history, or historical archaeology will find this account exceptionally grounded and readable. Oliphant writes with crisp, journalistic clarity, avoiding romanticized idealizations in favor of sharp, practical observations. He candidly details the physical discomforts of field exploration—such as crawling through dirt-choked subterranean vaults or navigating difficult local customs—making the reader feel genuinely present on the trail.

The text reflects typical late nineteenth-century European perspectives on governance, administration, and regional development, which provides valuable historical context for understanding early modern settlement patterns in the region. Readers willing to engage with its period tone and dense topographical detail will be rewarded with an intimate, highly specific portrait of a land in transition long before the dramatic geopolitical shifts of the twentieth century.