Hand-book on cheese making

In Short

This professional manual serves as a comprehensive instructional guide for the late 1880s American cheese maker. Written by an experienced factory operator, it details every step of the manufacturing process, from the necessary tools and milk testing to the nuances of curd coagulation, heating, and curing. More than a simple set of instructions, the work functions as a spirited defense of the American dairy industry, arguing that through technical precision and the rejection of short-sighted shortcuts like skimming cream, American producers can reclaim their global reputation for excellence.

The Story

The narrative begins with a clear mission: the restoration of American cheese to its rightful place of prestige in the global market. The author acknowledges a period of "consternation" among domestic dairymen, who fear that Canadian producers have seized the advantage in quality and market value. Rather than wallowing in defeat, the author frames this as a call to action. He asserts that the United States possesses the most favorable dairy regions on earth and that the current competitive pressure should serve as a catalyst for reform. He explicitly rejects the "theorists," grounding his advice instead in the daily, messy realities of the factory floor.

The arc of the book moves systematically through the life cycle of a cheese. It starts with the factory environment itself, detailing the essential machinery required for success—from the boilers and vats to the specific types of thermometers and curd knives. Once the hardware is established, the author guides the reader through the "lacteal fluid's" journey. He explains how to prepare milk for coagulation, how to apply color, and the critical science of using rennet. The story of the curd continues through the delicate "cooking" phase, where the author emphasizes the importance of heat and the proper use of a hand rake to ensure even, gentle processing.

As the product reaches its final form, the narrative shifts to the "acid" stage—the most delicate part of the maker’s art—and the subsequent pressing and curing processes. The author is deeply concerned with the physical integrity of the cheese, explaining how to properly bandage the product to avoid spoilage and the invasion of flies. Throughout, he maintains a focus on the business of dairying, providing examples of sales statements to show how the modern factory must function as a transparent, data-driven operation.

The progression ends with a broader look at the industry’s future. The author discusses the history of the export trade to England, the decline of inefficient "home dairy" methods, and the necessity of keeping the "skimmer" (the practice of removing cream before cheesemaking) out of the factory. He concludes that the era of hit-or-miss production is over; the future belongs to the educated maker who views their work as both a scientific endeavor and a moral responsibility. By adhering to rigorous standards of hygiene and technique, the author believes a "cheese millennium" is not only possible but inevitable.

How It Unfolds

The foundation of the factory The author begins by listing the essential inventory for a modern establishment, including specialized scales, testing glass, and specific curd-handling tools. He insists that a professional environment, rather than a makeshift one, is the primary requirement for consistent results.

The alchemy of curd The process moves to the transformation of milk, where the author details the precise application of coloring and the temperature-sensitive introduction of rennet. He emphasizes the need for extreme gentleness during these early stages to preserve the fragile structure of the curds.

The art of the scald The author provides granular instructions on how to use a wooden hand rake to agitate the curd during the cooking phase. He warns against aggressive techniques that "bruise" the product, arguing that patience and uniform heat are the only ways to ensure quality.

The mastery of acid The narrative shifts to the use of the "hot iron test," a method for gauging acidity that the author considers essential for any serious maker. He explains how to read the curd’s development to prevent both under-cooking and over-souring.

The final polish The closing sections address the mechanics of pressing, bandaging, and the long-term care of the cheese in the curing room. The author concludes by critiquing the current state of the industry, calling for a unified, standardized approach to production to secure a future for American exports.

The People

The book centers on two distinct types of figures: the "practical maker" and the "agricultural cipher." The former, represented by the author himself, is a person of deep, empirical knowledge. He is observant, disciplined, and constantly refining his technique. He wants his peers to succeed and is willing to share his expertise to elevate the entire profession. His adversary is not a person, but a mindset: the "know-it-all young maker" who favors mechanical gadgets over human intuition, or the "slovenly" producer who ignores basic sanitation.

There are also the "patrons"—the dairy farmers who provide the milk. They occupy a middle ground of potential. They are often subject to the temptations of short-term profit, such as selling milk that has been skimmed of its cream, which the author views as the primary threat to the industry. The author’s goal is to turn these patrons into informed partners who understand that their own prosperity is inextricably linked to the quality of the final, finished cheese. By educating them through the transparent reporting of sales, he hopes to nudge them toward a more professional, long-term outlook.

In Its Own Voice

The author describes the necessity of maintaining a high standard of cleanliness, noting that the milk-handling process is essentially biological:

“Cleanliness is next to godliness” about a factory, because, milk being an animal fluid it is of nitrogenous composition, and the waste that accrues from it on decomposition becomes the most fetid carrion.

He offers a firm opinion on the common, albeit misguided, tendency of inexperienced makers to over-work their product during the cooking phase:

If you have an idea that curd wants to be stirred all of the time through the scalding period, at once disabuse your mind of it.

Finally, he captures the technical precision required for testing acidity, highlighting the importance of the tools used in the trade:

I do not know what cheese makers would do nowadays without the hot iron to guide them in evenly maturing curd.

What It's Really About

At its core, this book is an argument for professionalization in the face of industrial transition. It posits that cheese making is a science that demands both technical skill and moral character. The author challenges the reader to view their work not as mere labor, but as a contribution to a national identity—the "prestige" of American goods. It addresses the tension between tradition and innovation, suggesting that while the "Cheddar system" is the gold standard, its success depends entirely on the maker's willingness to abandon "primitive" habits. Underlying every instruction is the question: how can a decentralized, agricultural industry organize itself to compete on a global stage without sacrificing the integrity of the product?

Why Read It Today

Readers with an interest in culinary history, artisanal food production, or the evolution of American industry will find this a fascinating document. It offers a rare, ground-level view of how a once-homely farm task was transformed into a standardized, scientific, and global enterprise. You will feel the warmth of the factory floor, the smell of the rennet jars, and the frustration of a master maker dealing with "skipper flies" and "slovenly" neighbors.

Be aware, however, that the book is a product of its time. The prose is utilitarian and occasionally dense with technical jargon specific to the late 19th-century dairy trade. The author’s tone is unapologetically didactic and, at times, blunt regarding the failings of his contemporaries. It is not a light, narrative-driven read; it is a technical handbook designed for people who take their work—and their cheese—very seriously. You will walk away with a profound respect for the labor, science, and rigorous sanitation that went into the food supply of the Victorian era, and perhaps a new appreciation for the simple wedge of cheddar in your own refrigerator.