History of the recent discoveries at Cyrene

In Short

This book recounts a mid-nineteenth-century archaeological expedition to the ancient and long-neglected ruins of Cyrene in Northern Africa. Written by R. Murdoch Smith alongside Commander Porcher, it details the journey from initial reconnaissance and local diplomacy to the excavation of buried temples and the eventual transport of recovered classical sculptures to the British Museum. The work has lasted as a meticulous firsthand record of early archaeological exploration in a difficult and little-known region.

The Story

The narrative opens with a description of the Cyrenaica, a fruitful yet desolate province of Northern Africa where ancient splendor lies buried beneath the earth and modern inhabitants remain restless under control. After reviewing earlier travelers who visited the country for scientific purposes, the author outlines the legendary foundation of Cyrene in B.C. 631 by Dorian colonists led by Battus, who settled the region in obedience to the Delphic oracle.

Moving to the spring of 1860, the project begins when the author, stationed at Malta, conceives a reconnoitring excursion using a small sailing schooner named the Kertch. Securing the cooperation of Commander Porcher and the necessary approvals, the expedition equips itself in Benghazi with horses, water skins called girbehs, and coarse-grained gunpowder to be used as bakshish. Traveling inland, they encounter deep ravines, massive pine forests, and the intimidating presence of local religious brotherhoods belonging to the Senoussy sect.

Upon reaching Cyrene, the travelers establish their residence in ancient rock-cut tombs and begin systematic excavations. They uncover various structures, including a small temple of Bacchus yielding a youthful statue of the god, and a temple of Apollo containing a large statue of Apollo Citharœdus. Throughout these operations, the explorers navigate tense relations with local Arab tribes and influential sheikhs who attempt to levy blackmail and restrict their movements. A serious regional disturbance arises when local sheikhs are imprisoned by a newly appointed governor, prompting an armed attack on the castle of Ghegheb by the local tribesmen.

As the excavations near completion, the transport phase begins. Antiquities and heavy cases are hauled across difficult terrain toward the coast, where naval assistance from the ship Assurance facilitates their final embarkation. Opposition from local figures like Sheikh Said—who attempts to blockade the mountain roads—is neutralized with the help of friendly local allies from the Haasa tribe. The narrative concludes with the successful dispatch of the recovered statuary, inscriptions, and architectural fragments to Malta and eventually London, accompanied by comprehensive descriptive catalogues of the archaeological finds and historical notes on the vanished silphium plant.

How It Unfolds

• The voyage begins: The project originates as a low-cost reconnoitring excursion conceived in Malta, utilizing a small sailing schooner named the Kertch to reach the untravelled shores of the Cyrenaica.
• Equipping for the interior: Arriving in Benghazi, the explorers acquire horses through a curious local auction method, stock up on essential supplies like water skins and gunpowder for presents, and secure guides for the journey inland.
• Encountering the land: The route takes them through deep, wooded ravines and past Islamic monasteries known as Zauyahs, leading them to the ancient site of Cyrene where they take up residence inside excavated rock tombs.
• Uncovering the temples: Systematic digging reveals ancient sanctuaries, including temples dedicated to Bacchus and Apollo, unearthing well-preserved statues, statuettes, and architectural fragments buried beneath the soil.
• Navigating local conflict: The work proceeds amidst delicate negotiations, threats of extortion from local sheikhs, and broader tribal uprisings against regional authorities that threaten the safety of the expedition.
• The final transport: Recovered antiquities are hauled across rough terrain to the coast, where naval support enables their successful embarkation for Malta, leaving behind a thoroughly documented landscape.

The People

• R. Murdoch Smith: An officer and archaeologist who initiates the expedition, manages its daily operations, and records the meticulous details of the geography and ruins. He wants to assess the feasibility of excavation and successfully recover antiquities, navigating complex local politics and logistical hurdles to finish the endeavor with his discoveries intact.
• Commander Porcher: The naval officer who joins Smith in the enterprise, sharing the responsibilities of the reconnaissance, camp life, and managing the logistical challenges of exploring hostile territory.
• Mustapha: The influential Sheikh of the Zauyah El Beidah, who represents local religious authority and fiercely restricts access to the north-eastern necropolis, posing a continuous diplomatic challenge to the explorers.
• Sheikh Said: A local leader who attempts to extort the expedition and block their retreat with felled trees, ultimately forcing the travelers to rely on regional alliances to clear their path.
• Husseim and Hadji Hassan: Head sheikhs of the Haasa tribe whom the explorers previously befriended; they intervene to remove obstructing adversaries and ensure safe passage for the expedition's retreating transport teams.

In Its Own Voice

• Describing the contrast between the visible landscape and its hidden history, the author notes:

"All the splendour of the ancient Cyrenaica, with few exceptions, lies buried below the surface of the earth; and here, over the palaces of kings and the remains of former magnificence, the Arabs pitch their tents and the camels browse."

• Highlighting the cautious approach required for local travel, the text explains:

"As the importation and sale of gunpowder are prohibited, it is smuggled on shore by the traders of Benghazi, who charge the Arabs a price proportionate to the risk they run in procuring it, or the sum they expend in bribing the officers of the Custom-house."

• Capturing the physical reality of their temporary dwelling space, the narrative records:

"We also bought a dozen Barbary mats, which added greatly to our comfort, both on the journey, and afterwards during our stay at Cyrene."

What It's Really About

The book explores the interplay between classical antiquity and the living nineteenth-century landscape of North Africa. Beneath its detailed archaeological catalog lies an inquiry into the fragility of civilization, evidenced by the disappearance of once-thriving Hellenic colonies and native plants like silphium under centuries of changing political and environmental pressures. It also examines the practical mechanics of imperialism and scientific exploration, demonstrating how nineteenth-century travelers negotiated unfamiliar legal, tribal, and geographical terrains to extract antiquity from the earth for European institutions.

Why Read It Today

Readers interested in the history of archaeology, Victorian travel writing, or classical antiquity will find this book a rewarding and direct window into the past. Reading it feels like accompanying a pair of determined observers across a rugged, untouched landscape, sharing in the quiet tension of camp life and the sudden thrill of unearthing ancient marble from the dirt. While modern readers must navigate the period attitudes and Eurocentric framing typical of mid-nineteenth-century travel literature, the text remains remarkably grounded, avoiding romanticized hype in favor of honest, precise documentation. What stays with you is the stark imagery of camels browsing over buried palaces, and the sheer persistence required to bring lost history back to light.