In Barbary

In Short

In Barbary is Edward Alexander Powell’s 1926 travel narrative detailing an extensive expedition through Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco, and the northern reaches of the Sahara Desert. Crossing mountain ranges, coastal ports, and trackless sand dunes by motorcar and twelve-wheeled desert transport, Powell documents the dramatic geography, historical ruins, and varied populations of North Africa. He examines the legacy of ancient Empires like Carthage and Rome, traces the violent era of the Barbary corsairs, and analyzes the contemporary French colonial administration. The book endures as a vivid, detail-rich snapshot of the Maghreb during the early twentieth century, capturing a region poised between centuries-old traditions and rapid modern transformation.

The Story

Powell’s narrative begins on the Mediterranean, approaching the ancient shores of North Africa. His trek starts in Tunisia, where the visible remnants of antiquity immediately seize his attention. Surveying the landscape near Tunis, he observes the faint outlines of ancient Carthage—the military harbor of Hamilcar, the hill of Dido’s palace, and the battlegrounds where Roman and Carthaginian armies clashed. Wandering through the bustling souks of Old Tunis, he moves from the coastal modern quarters up toward the Kasbah, detailing how the ancient corsair stronghold once housed thousands of Christian slaves before its transformation into French military barracks.

From Tunis, Powell journeys further into the Tunisian interior, traversing countryside littered with the architectural echoes of Roman Byzacium. He examines colossal aqueducts, ruined amphitheaters, and subterranean dungeons, reflecting on how this arid landscape once served as the fertile granary of the Roman Empire. Crossing over to the island of Djerba, he observes the distinct customs of the local Berber inhabitants, their unique dress, and their austere religious practices.

The journey then pushes south and west into the formidable expanse of the Sahara. Traveling in heavily modified multi-wheeled vehicles, Powell describes the thrilling and harrowing experience of navigating giant sand dunes, plunging down precipitous slopes at breakneck speeds, and braving blinding sandstorms. In the desert oases, such as those of the Beni-M’zab confederation, he encounters isolated communities living under strict religious governance. In these remote settlements, he witnesses hypnotic dervish rituals, where devotees perform startling feats of self-mortification, swallowing live coals and driving steel skewers through their flesh in states of intense religious ecstasy.

Turning back toward the coast, Powell reaches Algeria. In Constantine, he marvels at the city perched dramatically above the deep gorge of the Rummel, contrasting modern luxury hotels with the deep chasm of historical time. He visits natural wonders like the boiling thermal springs of Hammam Meskoutine and historical sites like the Tombeau de la Chrétienne—the massive circular tomb of Juba II and Cleopatra’s daughter, Selene. In Algiers, he delves into the blood-soaked history of the Turkish viceroys and pirate admirals like Khair-ed-Din, who built massive sea moles using captive labor to shelter their corsair fleets.

Finally, Powell enters Morocco, a territory only recently brought under French control. He explores the sacred imperial cities of Fez and Mequinez, navigating their labyrinthine alleys, magnificent palaces, and ancient mosques decorated with intricate arabesques. He observes the French military schools for native princes and visits the holy, walled sanctuary of Mulai Idris en Zarhon. Moving along the Atlantic coast through Casablanca, he tracks the rapid rise of modern infrastructure alongside ancient trade routes. The narrative culminates in the high country of the Atlas Mountains and the southern outpost of Marrákesh, offering a complete picture of a vast territory defined by stark contrasts—snowy peaks overlooking scorching orange groves, and ancient Islamic traditions adapting to the modern world.

How It Unfolds

Sailing to Carthage Arriving by sea, the expedition encounters the coast of Tunisia, where a local priest points out the modest hills and lagoons that mark the vanished splendor of Carthaginian and Roman power.

Inside the Corsair Citadel Exploring Old Tunis, the narrative ascends from the modern European gates up to the ancient Kasbah, tracing its history from a feared pirate fortress to a modern French garrison.

Through the Roman Hinterland Traveling across the Tunisian country-side, Powell documents vast fields of Roman ruins, ancient olive groves, and the unique Berber communities on the island of Djerba.

Into the Great Dunes The trek ventures into the Algerian Sahara using heavy twelve-wheeled motor vehicles, tackling terrifying descents down steep sand precipices and surviving intense desert heat.

Among the Desert Sects In the remote M’zab oases, the author observes the rigorous life of the Mozabite tribes and witnesses extreme dervish ceremonies involving fire-eating and piercing rituals.

Along the Algerian Coast Moving through Constantine and Algiers, the journey balances natural hot springs and dramatic cliffside cities against the grim history of Spanish sieges and Turkish pirate rule.

The Sacred Cities of Morocco Entering Morocco, Powell navigates the crowded souks of Fez, the grand monuments of Mequinez, and the revered, highly restricted mountain shrine of Mulai Idris.

The Southern Frontier The journey concludes along the Atlantic port of Casablanca and inland to Marrákesh, taking in the towering peaks of the Atlas Range and assessing the reach of French colonial control.

The People

Edward Alexander Powell The author and intrepid travel writer serves as the central observer of the narrative. Seeking to dispel common Western misconceptions about North Africa, he approaches the terrain with acute curiosity, physical courage during dangerous motoring maneuvers, and a keen eye for historical context. His goal is to thoroughly document the geography, culture, and political reality of the region, emerging with a nuanced understanding of its complex history.

General Hubert Lyautey The French Resident-General in Morocco appears as a formidable administrative figure. Facing the sudden outbreak of the First World War and the removal of most European troops, Lyautey relies on strategic diplomacy, financial incentives, and pragmatic appeals to the Grand Caïds to maintain peace and build the infrastructure of modern Morocco.

The Barbary Corsairs and Turkish Pashas Historical figures such as Khair-ed-Din (Barbarossa) and pirate commanders dominate the historical retellings. Driven by wealth, religious conflict, and naval dominance, these leaders transformed coastal cities into fortified pirate republics, forcing European powers to pay tribute and leaving a legacy of captivity and warfare that defined the coast for centuries.

The Mozabites and Desert Dervishes The austere Beni-M’zab Berbers and desert ascetics represent the deep spiritual diversity of the Sahara interior. Despising worldly excess and maintaining strict communal moral codes, these religious groups struggle to preserve their traditional way of life and distinct creeds in the face of harsh desert environments and outside political pressure.

In Its Own Voice

Near the ruins of Carthage, an accompanying priest points toward the historic landscape and captures the weight of its fallen empire:

“Delenda est Carthago,” quoted the priest.

Describing the terrifying descent down a massive Saharan sand dune in an experimental motorcar, Powell vividly conveys the physical sensation of desert travel:

The little flags out front, then the hood, seemed suddenly to drop out of sight, and I was thrown forward with great abruptness to find myself looking down upon the top of the driver’s head.

Observing the distinct character of the isolated Mozabite communities living in the Saharan oases, the author notes their strict governance and religious isolation:

In their form of government, their extreme austerity of life, and their intolerance of other beliefs, as well as in their energy, industry, and commercial integrity, they strongly resemble the Puritans who settled on the shores of New England three hundred years ago.

What It's Really About

In Barbary is fundamentally an investigation into the cyclical nature of empire, culture, and power along the North African frontier. Beneath the vivid details of travel lies an exploration of how successive civilizations—Carthaginian, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, Ottoman, and finally French—have laid claim to the same narrow strip of fertile land and vast desert.

The book contrasts the architectural and historical ruins of ancient empires with the raw, energetic realities of twentieth-century French colonial expansion. Powell repeatedly poses implicit questions about progress and governance: how do modern infrastructure, roads, and motorcars alter lands that remained unchanged for centuries? At the same time, he highlights the resilience of indigenous Berber and Arab traditions, demonstrating that despite centuries of foreign conquest, the fundamental cultural, spiritual, and social patterns of Barbary remain fiercely independent.

Why Read It Today

In Barbary offers readers a fascinating time capsule of North Africa during the Interwar period, capturing a brief historical moment when ancient desert caravan routes were first meeting the era of the automobile and early aviation. Powell writes with an engaging, journalistic style that balances dramatic adventure with detailed historical context, making the geography feel immediate and vibrant.

Readers will enjoy the sheer variety of the journey, from heart-pounding motoring across Saharan dunes to quiet reflections inside ancient mosques and Roman ruins. However, modern readers should approach the text aware of its period perspective. Powell writes from the viewpoint of an early twentieth-century Western observer; his prose reflects the colonial attitudes of his time, often viewing European administration as an unquestioned force for progress while treating local customs with a mix of genuine fascination and distance.

For those interested in travel literature, African history, or the colonial era, the book remains a valuable, highly readable account. It leaves the reader with a lasting impression of a majestic, complex region where the echoes of ancient history are forever present beneath the desert sun.