In the Track of R. L. Stevenson and Elsewhere in Old France

In Short

In the Track of R. L. Stevenson and Elsewhere in Old France is a travelogue by J. A. Hammerton that retraces Robert Louis Stevenson's journey through the Cévennes Mountains and explores other picturesque regions of France. The book combines vivid descriptions of landscapes, cultural insights, and historical anecdotes, offering readers a glimpse into the charm and diversity of old France.

The Story

The narrative begins with Hammerton's journey through the Cévennes Mountains, following the route Stevenson took in his famous travelogue, Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes. Hammerton vividly describes the rugged beauty of the mountains, the quaint villages, and the warm hospitality of the locals. He reflects on Stevenson's experiences and observations, often comparing his own impressions with those of the renowned author.

From the Cévennes, Hammerton ventures to other regions of France, each with its unique character and allure. He explores the route of Stevenson's An Inland Voyage, a canoe trip along the rivers and canals of France and Belgium. Hammerton captures the tranquility of the waterways, the charm of the towns, and the rich history that permeates the landscape.

The journey continues to Le Puy, a town Hammerton describes as the most picturesque in Europe. He marvels at its architectural wonders, including the cathedral and the Rocher de Corneille, and delves into its cultural and historical significance. The book also takes readers to the country of the Camisards, a region steeped in the history of the Huguenot wars and the struggle for religious freedom.

Hammerton's travels lead him to the Wonderland of France, the valley of the Tarn, where nature's grandeur is on full display. He describes the dramatic landscapes, the ancient towns, and the unique cultural heritage of the region. The journey then takes a literary turn as Hammerton visits Tarascon, the town immortalized by Alphonse Daudet in his stories of Tartarin.

The book also explores the vibrant festivals of France, such as La Fête Dieu in Orléans, and delves into the local customs and traditions. Hammerton's narrative is enriched by his encounters with the people, his observations of their way of life, and his appreciation for the beauty and diversity of old France.

How It Unfolds

Through the Cévennes: Hammerton begins his journey by retracing Stevenson's route through the Cévennes Mountains, describing the rugged landscapes and the warm hospitality of the locals.

Along the Route of "An Inland Voyage": The narrative shifts to Hammerton's exploration of the rivers and canals Stevenson traveled by canoe, capturing the tranquility and charm of the waterways.

The Most Picturesque Town in Europe: Hammerton visits Le Puy, marveling at its architectural wonders and cultural significance.

The Country of the Camisards: The journey takes readers to the region steeped in the history of the Huguenot wars and the struggle for religious freedom.

The Wonderland of France: Hammerton explores the valley of the Tarn, describing its dramatic landscapes and unique cultural heritage.

The Town of "Tartarin": The narrative turns to Tarascon, the town immortalized by Alphonse Daudet, capturing its literary charm and local customs.

La Fête Dieu: Hammerton describes the vibrant festival in Orléans, delving into the local traditions and customs.

Round About a French Fair: The book explores the lively atmosphere and unique attractions of a French fair.

The Palace of the Angels: Hammerton concludes his journey with a visit to Mont St. Michel, a unique and enchanting monument of the Middle Ages.

The People

J. A. Hammerton: The author and narrator, Hammerton is a keen observer and a passionate traveler. He is deeply interested in the history, culture, and landscapes of France, and his narrative is enriched by his personal reflections and insights.

Robert Louis Stevenson: Although not physically present, Stevenson's presence is felt throughout the book. Hammerton frequently references Stevenson's works, comparing his own experiences with those of the renowned author.

The Locals: Hammerton encounters a variety of locals, from innkeepers and farmers to monks and festival participants. Their warmth, hospitality, and unique ways of life add depth and authenticity to the narrative.

In Its Own Voice

"To those who have not seen this work of the poor hill-folk it is not easy to convey a proper idea of its effect on the landscape."

This passage highlights Hammerton's appreciation for the labor and ingenuity of the local people in shaping the landscape.

"The buildings of Our Lady of the Snows are quite devoid of any architectural beauty. They are set four-square in the hollow, and the hills trend gently upward on every side richly clad with trees..."

Here, Hammerton describes the monastery of Our Lady of the Snows, emphasizing its simplicity and harmony with the surrounding nature.

"The word Camisard in the south of France, like Covenanter in Scotland, recalls 'Old, unhappy, far-off things, And battles long ago.'"

This quote underscores the historical significance of the Camisards and their struggle for religious freedom.

What It's Really About

In the Track of R. L. Stevenson and Elsewhere in Old France is about the beauty and diversity of France, seen through the lens of a traveler who is deeply appreciative of its history, culture, and landscapes. It is a celebration of the country's rich heritage, from its architectural wonders to its vibrant festivals and traditions.

The book is also about the power of travel to connect us with the past and to deepen our understanding of the world. Hammerton's journey is not just a physical one but also an intellectual and emotional exploration, as he reflects on the works of Stevenson and the history of the regions he visits.

Why Read It Today

This book will appeal to readers who love travel literature, history, and cultural exploration. Hammerton's vivid descriptions and personal reflections make it feel like you are traveling alongside him, experiencing the charm and beauty of old France.

The book offers a unique perspective on France, combining historical insights with personal observations. It is a great read for those interested in the works of Robert Louis Stevenson, as it provides a deeper understanding of the landscapes and cultures that inspired him.

While the book may reflect some period attitudes and assumptions, its appreciation for the beauty and diversity of France remains timeless. The narrative is engaging and accessible, making it a pleasure to read for anyone interested in travel, history, or literature.

For those planning a trip to France, In the Track of R. L. Stevenson and Elsewhere in Old France can serve as a wonderful guide, offering insights into lesser-known regions and attractions. It is also a great read for armchair travelers who want to explore the world from the comfort of their own home.

In conclusion, In the Track of R. L. Stevenson and Elsewhere in Old France is a captivating travelogue that combines history, culture, and personal reflection to create a rich and immersive reading experience. Whether you are a fan of Stevenson, a lover of France, or simply a traveler at heart, this book is sure to delight and inspire.