Incidents of Travel in Yucatan, Vol. II

In Short

This volume documents the second half of a pioneering expedition into the heart of the Yucatán, where the author and his companions map the architectural wonders of Zayi, Chichen Itza, and beyond. It serves as both a detailed survey of pre-Columbian ruins and a candid travelogue of a region caught between its ancient heritage and a volatile, post-colonial political climate. Its enduring value lies in the intersection of careful documentation—rendered through precise descriptions and sketches—and the author’s keen, humanistic interest in the lives of the people he encounters along the way.

The Story

The narrative begins with a departure from the village of Nohcacab, marking the start of an arduous journey through the scrub and forest of the interior. The travelers—the author, the illustrator Mr. Catherwood, and Doctor Cabot—move from site to site, often guided by local Indians who hold a mix of reverence and apprehension regarding the ancient stone structures. Their progress is defined by the physical labor of clearing vegetation from massive stone mounds, a process that frequently reveals sophisticated, previously hidden architecture, such as the mysterious "Casa Cerrada" and the imposing, factory-like structures at Zayi.

As they move through the countryside, the narrative is punctuated by the practical challenges of survival: the scarcity of potable water, the persistent threat of tropical fevers, and the logistical difficulties of securing transport and labor in remote areas. The team’s discovery of a vast, subterranean reservoir at an aguada—restored by a local landowner—highlights the ingenuity of both the ancient inhabitants and the contemporary residents who rely on these remnants of a sophisticated hydraulic system.

The journey eventually leads to the legendary ruins of Chichen Itza. Here, the scale of the archaeological work intensifies. The explorers uncover bas-reliefs, temples, and residential structures that suggest a deep, cultural affinity with the civilizations of Central Mexico. The narrative captures the sensory reality of these sites: the smell of damp earth, the struggle to sketch under the oppressive heat, and the eerie silence of cities reclaimed by nature. Throughout these explorations, the group is caught up in the local political landscape, as the Yucatán is actively embroiled in a movement for independence from Mexico. The author observes the irony of a "patriotic" rebellion in the town of Tekax, where half-naked bands of Indians, driven by local grievances, rise up in the name of a revolution they barely comprehend.

As their resources dwindle and the season forces their hand, the travelers transition from the ruins to the urban centers of the state. The final act of the journey involves navigating both the hospitality of the local padres and the burgeoning bureaucracy of regional politics. The narrative concludes with the party preparing to leave via the port of Sisal, having successfully cataloged a monumental history while witnessing the precarious, often chaotic, formation of a modern state.

How It Unfolds

The voyage begins The party departs Nohcacab, encountering the ruins of Zayi and discovering the perplexing Casa Cerrada. They face immediate obstacles, including a lack of water and the superstitious caution of their Indian guides.

The struggle for documentation The team clears dense forest to reveal complex, multi-story buildings and subterranean chambers. Their work is a race against time and illness, as the tropical environment threatens both their equipment and their health.

The arrival at Chichen Itza The explorers encounter the vast, complex structures of Chichen Itza, which they recognize as a site of profound historical importance. They spend days clearing debris and mapping the intricate sculptures that decorate the temples.

Political unrest intervenes The narrative shifts to the external reality of a region in revolt. The travelers observe the confusion of local independence movements, noting the disconnect between the political rhetoric of the capital and the reality of the rural population.

The final surveys Before departing, the group visits the island of Cozumel, finding it largely reclaimed by the jungle, and finishes their final architectural studies. They navigate a series of social obligations and medical needs before securing passage on a ship bound for home.

The People

John L. Stephens serves as the tireless, observant narrator whose primary goal is the scientific documentation of the ruins. He is a man of intellectual curiosity, though he occasionally finds himself frustrated by the physical limitations of his team and the logistical failures inherent in travel. Mr. Catherwood is the quiet, essential artist whose ability to capture the ruins on paper provides the visual evidence for their findings; he is often the most cautious regarding the health risks of the journey. Doctor Cabot acts as the group’s medical support and, in his off-hours, a dedicated ornithologist who treats the trip as a chance to classify the birds of the region. The local Indians provide the essential labor force, often displaying a mix of skepticism and awe toward the ruins, while landowners like Don Pio Perez provide the scholarly connections necessary to interpret the Mayan calendar and manuscript fragments.

In Its Own Voice

"It was the first time I had been thoroughly disappointed; there were no subjects for the pencil, and, except the deep and abiding impression of moving among the deserted structures of another ruined and desolate city, there was nothing to carry away."

The author describes his reaction to a site that did not live up to the inflated expectations he had been given.

"As I looked upon the wild figures of the Indians standing round the hole, and their earnest faces, it was really exciting to hear them talk of the owner."

This reflects the tension between the author’s modern, analytical mindset and the enduring local folklore regarding the spirits of the ancient ruins.

What It's Really About

The book explores the tension between civilization and the wilderness, and the cyclical nature of human ambition. It asks whether these monumental ruins are merely "puzzles for posterity" or evidence of a once-thriving, complex society that has been unjustly erased from history. Beyond archaeology, the text is a meditation on the fragility of institutions. By contrasting the enduring, if ruined, stone architecture with the chaotic, ephemeral political revolutions of the 19th-century Yucatán, the author questions what truly constitutes a "civilized" state. He portrays the indigenous populations not as relics, but as living, vital participants in a landscape that they alone truly understand, even as they remain alienated from the administrative powers that govern them.

Why Read It Today

Readers with a passion for history, travel, and the raw, unpolished experience of discovery will find this volume compelling. It lacks the retrospective polish of modern travel writing, offering instead a vivid, immediate account of the frustrations, heat, and wonder of the 1840s. Its pace is deliberate, reflecting the slow, methodical labor required to uncover a city hidden under centuries of growth.

The book is an excellent window into the period’s "gentleman-explorer" mentality, though a modern reader must be prepared for the author’s mid-19th-century biases. His attitudes toward the local indigenous populations are often paternalistic, viewing them through the lens of colonial hierarchies; however, he remains consistently impressed by their local knowledge and survival skills. The prose is warm and personal, making the reader feel like a silent partner in the expedition. It is a work that rewards patience, as the true beauty of the book lies in its granular details—the way a ladder is constructed, the flight of a bird, or the sudden, startling sight of a stone face emerging from the vines. It leaves the reader with a profound sense of time’s passage and the sobering reality that even the most formidable empires eventually succumb to the slow, steady reclamation of the forest.