Letters from China and Japan

In Short

This collection of informal, observant letters chronicles an extended 1919 journey through Japan and China. Originally intended only for the authors’ children, the correspondence captures a pivotal moment in history: the rise of Japanese liberal movements and the birth of modern Chinese nationalism. Through vivid descriptions of daily life, academic lectures, and intimate dinners, the book provides a rare, grounded look at the collision of Eastern tradition and Western democratic influence. It remains a valuable historical document for its candid, unpolished perspective on a world on the brink of transformation.

The Story

The journey begins in early 1919 as a planned pleasure trip to Japan, but it is immediately transformed when the author is invited to lecture at the Imperial University in Tokyo. The narrative follows the couple as they settle into the rhythm of Japanese life, moving from the appreciation of cherry blossoms and the "semi-magic" atmosphere of ancient gardens to the complexities of a society grappling with rapid modernization. The letters detail an environment where traditional stoicism meets new, often cynical, political maneuvers. The couple navigates a landscape of "educated" missionary teachers, influential Buddhist priests, and a Japanese public sphere dominated by discussions of representative government and the exclusion of women from the new educational reforms.

By May, the authors are so captivated by the unfolding events in China that they extend their stay indefinitely. The focus of the narrative shifts to the struggle for a unified, independent Chinese democracy. They arrive in a country they describe as being full of unused resources, yet constrained by poverty, deforestation, and foreign encroachment. The letters record their interactions with "returned students"—those educated in the West—who are attempting to reconcile their new ideals with the reality of a fragile, corrupt, and often stagnant governing system.

As the summer of 1919 progresses, the tone shifts from observational to urgent. The couple witnesses the "birth of a nation" in the form of student-led protests in Peking. They describe with admiration how students, once viewed as children, organize to challenge the government’s surrender to foreign interests and the military-led seizure of universities. The narrative documents the students’ tactical use of strikes, speeches, and boycotts to embarrass the ruling cliques. Interspersed with these political upheavals are mundane, humanizing details: the frustration of waiting for slow mail, the intricacies of learning Chinese, the peculiar customs of "spirit" beliefs among educated officials, and the elaborate social dinners that serve as the stage for political discourse.

The arc ends with the couple still deeply embedded in the life of Peking. They have moved from being detached tourists to active participants and analysts of a society in flux. The final letters reflect on the resilience of the students, the return of the University Chancellor, and the persistent, often humorous, cultural disconnects between East and West. The narrative leaves the reader with a sense of the immense, ongoing labor required to build a nation, concluding on a note of cautious hope and intellectual curiosity about the future of the republic.

How It Unfolds

The voyage begins The couple embarks on a leisurely trip to Japan, expecting a quiet academic exchange. They quickly find themselves immersed in the social and intellectual life of Tokyo, balancing official lectures with local sightseeing.

A society in transition The narrative explores Japan’s internal conflicts, including the rise of liberal sentiment and the government's strained relationship with the United States. Observations on education, gender roles, and traditional customs provide a nuanced view of a country attempting to modernize while guarding its past.

Arrival in China The authors transition to China, where they encounter a vastly different set of challenges. They contrast the organized, if opaque, nature of Japanese society with the chaotic, drifting, yet vibrant energy of the Chinese political scene.

The student movement The narrative reaches a peak as the couple witnesses the student-led protests in Peking. The letters describe the brave and carefully planned tactics of the students who confront military occupation and government corruption with startling effectiveness.

The ongoing struggle The final section examines the aftermath of the protests and the slow progress of reform. The authors reflect on the complexities of Chinese politics, the enduring influence of tradition, and their own deepening connection to the people they meet.

The People

John Dewey and Alice C. Dewey are the primary observers. As an American academic and his partner, they bring a background of Western democratic theory to their travels. They are characterized by a profound curiosity and a willingness to be "thawed out" by the local culture, though they maintain a critical distance regarding the political machinations they observe.

The "returned students" are the most prominent supporting figures. Educated in America or Japan, these young men and women are the catalysts for the democratic reforms the authors witness. They struggle against the indifference of the ruling officials, the lack of infrastructure, and the internal friction between different factions of activists. Their desire to modernize China is met with both enthusiasm and deep-seated hostility from the traditional power structures.

The officials and military leaders the couple encounters act as the primary obstacles to progress. These figures are often portrayed as cynical opportunists, comfortable in their corruption and resistant to the democratic aspirations of the students. Their actions, such as the seizure of the University or the suppression of speech, provide the conflict that drives the narrative forward. Through the authors' interactions with these diverse groups—from the "commanding" grandmother in a Tokyo home to the scholarly but superstitious ex-Minister of Finance—a complex portrait of a society divided between a desire for change and the weight of history emerges.

In Its Own Voice

"Any country is old where birth and death are like the coming and dropping of leaves on a tree, and where the individual is of as much importance as the leaf."

The author reflects on the deep antiquity of Japan while observing the cycle of life in the countryside.

"To think of kids in our country from fourteen on, taking the lead in starting a big cleanup reform politics movement and shaming merchants and professional men into joining them."

The author expresses admiration for the initiative and moral courage shown by the students in Peking during the protests.

"The Chinese do not juggle with foreigners as the Japanese do, in the conscious sense, they simply drift, they juggle with themselves and with each other all the time."

The author compares the distinct political temperaments of the two nations during the summer of 1919.

What It's Really About

The central theme is the friction between modernization and tradition. The book interrogates the viability of transplanting Western democratic ideals into ancient, hierarchical societies. It examines the "birth pangs" of a modern nation-state—the chaos of revolution, the struggle for freedom of speech, and the power of organized youth to challenge institutional inertia. Underlying the narrative is a question about the nature of democracy itself: is it merely a system of government, or a social habit that must be practiced? By observing the "returned students" and the cynical maneuverings of the ruling classes, the authors argue that the process of change is neither linear nor easily directed, but rather a messy, organic, and often dangerous labor.

Why Read It Today

Readers interested in the intersection of philosophy and history will find this volume particularly rewarding. It reads like a private diary, filled with the immediacy and occasional inconsistencies of someone trying to make sense of a world that is shifting under their feet. The warmth of the authors' observations creates a sense of intimacy, making the reader feel like a witness to their discoveries.

However, the book demands patience. It is an unedited collection of letters, meaning it contains repetitive descriptions and the occasional rambling thought. Readers should also be aware that the authors express the attitudes and prejudices typical of a 1919 Western perspective, including a tendency to generalize about "Oriental" traits. These period attitudes are present but often softened by the authors' genuine, humble efforts to understand those they meet. What stays with you is not just the political history—the "twenty-one Demands" or the student strikes—but the small, human moments: the shared meals on the floor of a restaurant, the frustration of a broken mail system, and the realization that the people living through these epochal changes were just as confused, hopeful, and resilient as we are today. It is a vital, honest look at a world that feels both distant and strikingly familiar.