Letters from Palestine: Written during a residence there in the years 1836, 7 and 8

In Short

Written as a series of letters during a residency from 1836 to 1838, this narrative documents a Presbyterian minister’s travels through Mount Lebanon, Damascus, Jerusalem, and down into Egypt. John D. Paxton moves through the region observing agricultural practices, local dress, monastic communities, and multi-religious populations. He blends a lifelong familiarity with biblical history with a pragmatic, critical curiosity about physical geography, trade, and social customs. The text remains compelling as an unvarnished 19th-century Western account of the Levant, capturing a period of political tension, administrative changes under Ibrahim Pasha, and daily life along ancient travel routes.

The Story

The narrative begins on the Mediterranean, where Paxton sails past Cyprus and watches the distant, snow-flecked ridge of Mount Lebanon emerge from behind a heavy fog. Upon landing, he settles into the mountainous terrain, using the village of Bhamdoon as a base. He travels through small settlements, visiting local coal mines, observing terraced vineyards, and noting the stark transition from forested lower heights to bare, rocky high peaks like Jebal Knee-se. He takes notice of the region's domestic life, remarking on everything from local silkworm cultivation to the distinct fat-tailed sheep tended in small plots.

From Lebanon, Paxton journeys inland to Damascus. His stay in the city is brief, curtailed by a prevailing season of sickness, yet he records the bustles of the regional trade hub: incoming caravans from Mecca and Baghdad, reports of desert travel toward Palmyra, and the green oases fed by the Barada River that contrast sharply with the surrounding arid expanse.

Returning to the coast, Paxton heads south toward Palestine. He passes ancient ports including Sidon, Tyre, and Acre, describing Mount Carmel’s long ridge before making his way up into the highlands of Jerusalem. Within the Holy City, he explores major religious landmarks, focusing intently on the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. He details its architectural layout, the shared custody among various Christian sects, and the Turkish guards stationed at the entrance. Outside the city walls, he investigates ancient rock-cut tombs, including the Tombs of the Kings and the Sepulchre of the Judges, measuring their chambers and inspecting their heavy stone doors.

His travels extend to the surrounding countryside, including trips toward Jericho, the Dead Sea, and the isolated monastery of San-Saba nestled above dry torrent beds. Throughout these excursions, he reflects on the physical condition of the soil, offering theories on how centuries of erosion and grazing altered a land famously described in scripture as rich and fertile.

After spending a second summer in the Lebanese mountains—where he engages in theological discussions with local villagers and monks—Paxton moves toward Jaffa to secure passage to Egypt. His departure is complicated by outbreaks of the plague and volatile maritime transport. Upon reaching Egypt, he travels by boat along the Nile toward Cairo, observing state-managed manufacturing towns like Atpi, the surrounding agricultural banks, and the practical indignities of river travel before concluding his account in Alexandria.

How It Unfolds

The approach to Lebanon Sailing from Cyprus, the author catches his first glimpse of Mount Lebanon rising above the horizon fog. Upon landing, he explores the high ridges, visiting coal operations at Corneil, noting the abrupt end of tree growth on the rocky slopes, and describing the domestic habits and livestock of the mountain villages.

Interlude in Damascus Traveling inland to Damascus during a period of widespread illness, the author limits his stay to two days. He observes the arrival and preparation of desert caravans, gathers reports on the route toward the Euphrates, and documents the contrast between the fertile river-fed plain and the barren eastern desert.

Coastal journey to Jerusalem Heading south along the Mediterranean shoreline, the vessel passes ancient Tyre and Mount Carmel. The author travels inland, ascending the steep elevation changes from the coast up to Jerusalem, noting the geological structures and agricultural condition of the terrain along the way.

Exploration of holy sites and tombs In Jerusalem, the author examines the interior compartments of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and visits the extensive rock-cut burial sites outside the city. He measures structural features, notes the presence of stone doors, and comments on the region's rocky soil compared to its historical reputation.

Excursions to the Dead Sea and Galilee Journeying through the harsh terrain toward Jericho and the Dead Sea, the author visits the remote monastery of San-Saba. Later travels bring him to coastal Saida and rural villages, where he encounters local residents, including a critically ill pilgrim at a church site who highlights the lack of available medical care.

Residency and departure through Egypt After spending a summer in the mountain village of Bhamdoon engaging in evening discussions with local residents and a Greek monk, the author travels to Jaffa. Delayed by plague fears and high passage fees, he sails to Egypt, completing his journey via the Nile's canal routes toward Cairo and Alexandria.

The People

• John D. Paxton: The author and narrator, an American Presbyterian minister. Raised in a mountainous region with a deep grounding in biblical texts, he approaches the Levant with a mix of religious reverence, practical curiosity, and western prejudices. He continuously evaluates the landscape, agricultural potential, and local customs through a lens of pragmatic observation.
• Mr. B.: Paxton’s traveling companion and interpreter during various inland excursions. He facilitates conversations with local residents, navigates regional customs, and shares humor at the cultural misunderstandings that arise between the Western travelers and the people they meet.
• Hykel: Paxton’s language teacher in the Lebanese village of Bhamdoon. He regularly attends evening gatherings at Paxton’s residence, participating in long theological and philosophical discussions with local villagers.
• The Village Monk: A well-informed religious figure in Bhamdoon who assists an elderly blind priest. He frequently visits Paxton to read and debate passages from the New Testament, delivering allegorical sermons to the local congregation while adhering strictly to traditional external rites.

In Its Voice

"The upper part of the fog was breaking into irregular masses and rolling off; at times the mountain could at some points be seen very clearly; then, again, the fog or clouds would close in upon it, and hide it from our view."

"They pointed out to us a good place to spread our carpets, gathered us some fruit, and sat down near us, and conversed pleasantly and cheerfully."

"The more I see of Palestine, the more I am persuaded that it was once one of the first countries in the world. The time was, I doubt not, when all these rocks were covered with a fine vegetable mould."

What It's Really About

At its core, the book examines the tension between ideal biblical expectations and the physical, political realities of 19th-century Palestine. Paxton constantly measures the landscape he encounters against the imagery of scripture, attempting to reconcile present-day deforestation, rocky soil, and ruined structures with ancient descriptions of abundance. Beyond geography, the text investigates the mechanics of cultural and religious life under Ottoman and Egyptian governance. It contrasts the external rituals of various Christian sects with the author's own Protestant sensibilities, while capturing how local populations adapt to taxation, forced labor in state-run mines, and the unpredictable threats of disease and regional conflict.

Why Read It Today

This volume appeals to readers interested in historical travel literature, 19th-century Middle Eastern history, and early American perspectives on the Levant. Paxton writes with a matter-of-fact directness that avoids romanticized Orientalism, focusing instead on observable details: the dimensions of an ancient stone hinge, the cost of boat passage during an outbreak of the plague, or the exact manner in which mountain villagers cool their sheep at evening springs.

The book's appeal lies in its plain-spoken clarity and its capture of daily life during a transitional era in the region's history. Modern readers must navigate the author's unyielding 19th-century Protestant biases—he is consistently critical of Eastern Christian rites, local labor habits, and regional dress—but these perspectives themselves offer clear historical insight into the mindset of early Western travelers in the region.