Narrative of the Circumnavigation of the Globe by the Austrian Frigate Novara, Volume I: (Commodore B. Von Wullerstorf-Urbair,) Undertaken by Order of the Imperial Government in the Years 1857, 1858, & 1859, Under the Immediate Auspices of His I. and R. Highness the Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian, Commander-In-Chief of the

In Short

This first volume chronicles the opening leg of the Austrian Navy's celebrated 1857–1859 round-the-world expedition aboard the frigate Novara. Written by expedition naturalist Karl von Scherzer, the travelogue details the ship's journey from its Adriatic departure through Gibraltar, Madeira, Rio de Janeiro, the Cape of Good Hope, isolated Indian Ocean outposts, Ceylon, and mainland India. Combining rigorous scientific measurements—from ocean temperatures to magnetic dip—with lively ethnographical observations, the account offers a comprehensive nineteenth-century picture of global commerce, natural history, and varied human cultures. It remains a classic of imperial scientific literature, noted for its rich detail, broad intellectual scope, and vivid descriptions of distant environments and societies.

The Story

The narrative opens under the patronage of Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian, Commander-in-Chief of the Austrian Navy, who dispatches the frigate Novara under the command of Commodore Bernhard von Wullerstorf-Urbair. Tasked with advancing global geography, natural science, and commercial intelligence, the expedition sets sail from the Adriatic Sea. Early in the voyage, life aboard ship establishes its rhythm: brief alarms over a missing sailor end in laughter when he is found hiding among benches, while green sea-farers slowly adjust to rougher waters as the frigate moves past the southern tip of Italy toward Gibraltar.

At Gibraltar, an outbreak of small-pox aboard the accompanying vessel Caroline disrupts plans for joint travel, prompting strict medical precautions and re-vaccinations. Steeling onward, the Novara reaches Madeira, where Scherzer and his colleagues thoroughly examine the island's unique ecology, agricultural practices, and distinct botanical zones. They climb through lush belts of broom, heath, and ancient laurel woods to the high peak of Pico Ruivo before descending through fog and steep mountain paths.

Crossing the Atlantic to Brazil, the expedition embeds itself in the life of Rio de Janeiro. Scherzer records the city's commercial vigor, noting the significant contributions of German immigrants who manage major printing houses and publish comprehensive administrative almanacs. The crew observes the heated, unruly debates inside the Brazilian Chamber of Deputies, journeys by steam and rail to the mountain retreat of Petropolis, and gathers botanical and geological samples across the region.

Leaving South America, the ship follows oceanic wind cycles toward the African continent, accompanied by flocks of albatrosses and petrels. Upon reaching the Cape Colony, the travelers visit Stellenbosch, a pristine Dutch-style town where thousands have gathered to watch the Governor review local volunteer troops. Scherzer notes the deep-rooted Dutch heritage of the region alongside the complex cultural mix of the Cape, including the sacred traditions of the local Malay population and the incense-scented tomb of Sheikh Joseph.

The Novara then ventures into the vast stretches of the Indian Ocean, stopping at the desolate, windswept volcanic island of St. Paul. There, the crew encounters an old French fisherman named Viot and searches in vain for news of sailors lost from the shipwrecked Meridian. Naturalists scramble over basaltic rocks and tufa cliffs, cataloging the island's sparse vegetation and penguin-inhabited shores.

Sailing northeast, the expedition reaches Ceylon (Sri Lanka). Scherzer documents the island's botanical wealth—where cinnamon, nutmeg, and breadfruit flourish together—and explores venerable Buddhist temples like Dadále Panzela under the shade of ancient, sacred Bo-trees. He observes the perilous operations of the pearl fisheries, where divers risk encounters with sharks to harvest the seabed. The narrative culminates with an ascent toward Adam's Peak and an exploration of mainland India, where the team examines the extensive collections and living menageries of the Madras Central Museum, before concluding with a detailed study of the intricate rock-cut temple sculptures and ancient relief carvings at Swami.

How It Unfolds

The voyage begins The Austrian frigate Novara sets sail from the Adriatic under Commodore Wullerstorf-Urbair to undertake a global scientific survey. Early mishaps and bout of seasickness give way to routine as the ship proceeds past Italy toward the Atlantic gateway of Gibraltar.

Atlantic stops and mountain ascents After medical quarantines alter ship movements in Gibraltar, the expedition anchors at Madeira to study its agricultural limits and botanical zones. Scherzer and his fellow naturalists trek through dense belts of giant heath and laurel woods to collect samples at the summit of Pico Ruivo.

Observations in South America Crossing to Rio de Janeiro, the naturalists inspect local political institutions, document the influence of German immigrant publishers, and travel inland to Petropolis. Their scientific work continues through marine fishing excursions and geological sampling along the Brazilian coast.

At the southern tip of Africa The ship crosses to the Cape Colony, arriving during a festive military review in the historic Dutch town of Stellenbosch. Scherzer investigates local agricultural practices and records the religious customs and sacred sites of the Cape Malay community.

Islands of the Indian Ocean In the far reaches of the southern sea, the ship lands at the crater island of St. Paul to survey its geology and wildlife. They consult with a lone French fishing overseer and inspect the treacherous, rocky shores for signs of recent shipwrecks.

Encountering Ceylon and India Reaching Ceylon, the expedition documents lush spice gardens, ancient Buddhist monasteries, and the mechanical operations of pearl-diving operations. Moving to the Indian mainland at Madras, they study civic museums, living zoological collections, and elaborate rock-cut relief temples.

The People

Commodore Bernhard von Wullerstorf-Urbair The venerable Commander-in-Chief of the expedition seeks to guide the Novara safely around the globe while gathering extensive navigational and meteorological data. He coordinates the vessel's movements, maintains order among the crew, and provides comprehensive daily journals and hydrographic reports that form the backbone of the expedition's official record.

Dr. Karl von Scherzer A dedicated member of the scientific corps and author of the narrative, Scherzer aims to record and publish a detailed account of the journey. He collects extensive observations on geography, ethnography, trade, and natural history at every landfall, tirelessly exploring mountain peaks, local markets, and cultural landmarks.

Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian The Commander-in-Chief of the Austrian Navy acts as the enlightened royal patron of the entire enterprise. He provides the political backing and organizational impetus for the voyage, aiming to elevate Austrian scientific prestige and expand the empire's commercial connections across the globe.

Viot An aged, weather-beaten French sailor serving as overseer of a remote fishing establishment on the lonely island of St. Paul. Living in the desolate wilderness, he provides the visiting naturalists with crucial firsthand intelligence regarding the island's conditions and the tragic fate of nearby shipwrecks.

In Its Own Voice

"A feeble voice was even heard, which endeavoured to prove from this phenomenon that man is a creature made for terra firma, and not for the watery element; but this excellent idea came rather late..."

Describing the humorous reaction of seasick crew members as rough weather catches the ship off the southern coast of Italy.

"In a single enclosure, not much larger than an ordinary house-garden, we saw coffee-trees, cinnamon-bushes, clove-trees, nutmeg-trees, oranges, lemons, pine-apples, and bread-fruit trees flourishing in wildest profusion."

Reflecting on the extraordinary ecological fertility encountered while exploring a temple grove in Ceylon.

"Anyone not aware of the fact that these animals have been rendered harmless by the extraction of their poison-fangs, must experience a feeling of terror and astonishment at the sight of this brood of malign, stealthy-moving, hissing serpents, with a naked Hindoo in their midst!"

Observing a handler casually cleaning the glass inside a crowded snake exhibit at the Central Museum in Madras.

What It's Really About

Behind its chronicle of nautical miles and exotic ports, the book addresses the systematic cataloging of the natural world and human society in an era of rapidly expanding global connections. It investigates how empirical observation—measuring ocean currents, tracking magnetic shifts, and indexing plant species—can bring order to unfamiliar environments.

The narrative constantly balances pure scientific inquiry with practical economic analysis. Scherzer examines trade statistics, crop yields, and immigration patterns alongside geological formations and ancient religious architecture. Underneath the daily routine of sea life lies a core argument for international scientific cooperation, demonstrating how rigorous data collection and cross-cultural contact advance human knowledge across political and geographical boundaries.

Why Read It Today

Readers who enjoy classic 19th-century travel writing, naval history, and scientific exploration will find this narrative exceptionally rewarding. Scherzer writes with an unpretentious clarity and sharp eye for detail that brings historical landscapes to life. Rather than indulging in romanticized sensationalism, the text offers an authentic, ground-level view of a world in transition—where traditional sacred sites coexist with new railways, telegraphs, and expanding global markets.

The reading experience feels like stepping onto the deck of an active research vessel. Scherzer captures the quiet humor of daily life at sea alongside the genuine excitement of landing on unfamiliar shores. Modern readers must navigate nineteenth-century imperial perspectives and lengthy technical data regarding magnetism and temperature, but these details only enrich the book's authenticity. It remains an absorbing document for anyone interested in how naturalists surveyed the globe before the modern era.