New Italian sketches

In Short

This volume is a refined collection of travel essays and historical sketches mapping journeys through the towns, coastlines, and historic sanctuaries of Italy. Readers are guided from coastal bays and secluded monasteries to Venetian canals and Renaissance court cities. Along the way, the narrative weaves together physical topography, local traditions, historical commentary, and art criticism. The work endures because it offers an evocative, deeply knowledgeable portrait of Italian culture and landscapes that captures both the timeless beauty and the historic weight of the places explored.

The Story

The narrative journey opens along the Italian coast, where travelers brave rolling breakers at Lerici to visit the seaside Casa Magni villa, lingering over memories of the poet Shelley. Moving into the interior, the route passes through quiet country villages where poor contadini farm sub-divided lands of grain, oil, and red wine under the oversight of monastic land agents. The traveler rests in windy convent corridors, observing how the surrounding landscape of olive trees and distant mountains reflects a somber, solitary beauty. In Montepulciano, the journey turns toward classic art and sculpture, lingering before the marble tomb of Bartolommeo Aragazzi to reflect on how Christian art captures the serene repose of death.

Continuing south toward the island of Ischia, the narrative captures dramatic coastal scenery where volcanic slopes, prickly pear, and vibrant blossoms drop to the sea against the distant backdrop of Vesuvius. The journey then moves across the inland plains of Umbria. At Foligno, a historic key to the Flaminian Way, the text examines how mediaeval strife and military geography shaped a town that still retains its ancestral layout. In the hill town of Gubbio, the traveler wanders past ruined ducal palaces and ancient vaulted cathedrals before enjoying traditional evening meals served on rustic linen in plain local inns.

From the Apennine valleys, the narrative moves on to Urbino, detailing the rise of Duke Frederick of Montefeltro, who built a prosperous, well-fortified state through military condotta, diplomatic skill, and generous governance. Arriving in Venice, the journey captures the city across shifting moods and seasons: the initial magic of arrival, quiet lodgings along southern canals where daily life unfolds on the water, and moonlit night wanderings from the Salute to the dark lagoon. The narrative pauses for a lively social gathering in an old palazzo gallery, where polite dinners dissolve into spirited conversation.

The later stages of the book transition into historical and artistic portraiture across Lombardy and neighboring regions. A broad historical overview outlines how fifteenth-century Italian states maintained balance through diplomacy and wealth before the onset of foreign conquests. The life of the celebrated condottiere Bartolommeo Colleoni is traced from camp rivalries to his triumph as a reliable, humane general for Venice. Finally, the journey explores the artistic heritage of northern Italy, studying the emotionally charged frescos of Gaudenzio Ferrari and the serene, harmonious paintings of Bernardino Luini inside monastic sanctuaries, before closing with a whimsical, dreamlike reflection on art, genius, and devotion.

How It Unfolds

The voyage begins Travelers set out along the coast near Lerici, visiting the white seaside villa of Casa Magni to evoke the memory and literary spirit of Shelley.

Across hill and sanctuary The journey turns inland to rustic farmsteads and windy monastic corridors, pausing in Montepulciano to contemplate the marble tomb of Aragazzi and the peaceful dignity of Christian funeral art.

Coastal lights and island shores Crossing to Ischia, the narrative describes dramatic sea cliffs, volcanic slopes, and vibrant coastal flora set against distant mountain ranges and the glowing eye of Vesuvius.

Through Umbrian valleys Wandering through Foligno and Gubbio, the traveler explores ancient Flaminian roadways, mediaeval public palaces, and quiet local inns where simple meals are served in the traditional Italian style.

The ducal realm of Urbino The narrative examines the rise of Duke Frederick of Montefeltro, chronicling his military campaigns, rivalries with neighboring tyrants, and the wealthy, peaceful rule he established in his court.

Venetian lights and shadows Arriving in Venice, the account details the rhythms of daily canal life, late-night gondola trips across the dark lagoon, and lively social dinners inside historic palazzos.

Captains and canvases The final chapters reflect on Italian history and art, detailing the career of the general Bartolommeo Colleoni alongside the magnificent wall paintings of Gaudenzio Ferrari and Bernardino Luini.

The People

• John Addington Symonds: The sensitive narrator and traveller who wanders across Italy, seeking out art, historic architecture, and local culture while meditating on memory and landscape.
• Christian Buol and Christian Palmy: The author's trusted travel companions who share the open road, rough sea crossings, and quiet nights in remote country lodgings.
• Percy Bysshe Shelley: The departed poet whose ghostlike literary presence hangs over the Casa Magni villa near San Terenzio, inspiring reflections on art and tragedy.
• Bartolommeo Aragazzi: The deceased noble whose marble effigy in Montepulciano embodies the quiet, noble sleep of Christian sculpture awaiting resurrection.
• Duke Frederick of Montefeltro: The prudent, wealthy ruler of Urbino who defends his realm through mercenary command while maintaining an honest, paternal rule over his subjects.
• Bartolommeo Colleoni: The famous military captain whose caution, daring, and unique honesty allow him to rise from camp rivalries to become the premier general of Venice.
• Gaudenzio Ferrari and Bernardino Luini: The northern Italian painters whose expressive frescos and serene altar pieces capture spiritual drama, human vitality, and majestic sweetness.

In Its Own Voice

"As we sat talking, I laughed to think of that luncheon party, when Shelley lost his clothes, and came naked, dripping with sea-water, into the room, protected by the skirts of the sympathising waiting-maid."

The author reflects on the playful, human history behind the seaside villa of Casa Magni.

"The wine stands in strange, slender phials of smooth glass, with stoppers; and the amber-coloured bread lies in fair round loaves upon the cloth."

A quiet dinner in a mountain hostelry in Gubbio captures the simple, artistic charm of old Italian hospitality.

"From the darkness they came; into the darkness they have gone."

A solitary boat slipping past the Venetian customs house at night becomes a brief, poetical meditation on mystery and shadow.

What It's Really About

Beneath its scenic travel descriptions, the book explores how human art, architecture, and memory interact with the physical landscape. It investigates the contrast between the transient struggles of history—such as mediaeval feuds, mercenary warfare, and political rivalries—and the enduring peace found in classical art and Christian monuments. By examining tomb sculptures, monastic frescos, and historic city plans, the narrative argues that artistic creation provides a lasting refuge against time and decay. It continually questions how place shapes human character, asking how the geography of Italian valleys, coastlines, and lagoons cultivated a unique national consciousness long before political unity existed.

Why Read It Today

This work appeals to classic travel literature enthusiasts, art history lovers, and readers who delight in quiet, contemplative prose. Reading it feels like walking through historic towns and museum galleries alongside an exceptionally learned, observant companion who notices details that casual tourists miss. The narrative paints a vivid picture of nineteenth-century European travel, balancing scenic landscapes with intellectual depth.

Readers should be prepared for a deliberate, descriptive pace that prioritizes thorough observation over fast-moving narrative drama. The text reflects nineteenth-century prose conventions, featuring detailed artistic analysis, occasional untranslated literary phrases, and formal period vocabulary. Yet for those willing to immerse themselves in its atmospheric flow, the reward is an enchanting journey through the history, art, and timeless beauty of Italy that lingers long after the final page.