Notice of Runic Inscriptions Discovered during Recent Excavations in the Orkneys

In Short

This nineteenth-century archaeological report documents the unearthing of Maeshowe, a massive prehistoric chambered cairn in the Orkney Islands. Author James Farrer details the physical excavation of the mound and nearby barrows, presenting a pioneering study of the extensive Runic inscriptions found scored into the stone walls. It has lasted as a foundational text in British archaeology because it captures the thrill of discovering the largest collection of Norse Runic carvings in Europe, preserved alongside early translations by leading Scandinavian scholars of the era.

The Story

The narrative follows an ambitious antiquarian enterprise in the summer of 1861, set against the stark landscape of the Orkney Islands near the Stones of Stenness. James Farrer, backed by local landowner David Balfour and supported by experienced antiquarians and engineers, sets out to breach the imposing mound of Maeshowe, long rumored in local folklore to be an ancient tomb inhabited by a supernatural guardian. Opening the western slope of the hillock, the excavation team clears away fallen earth and flagstones to expose a long, narrow stone-lined passage leading directly into a massive, roofed central chamber.

As the heavy debris is removed from the interior, the researchers discover that the drystone walls are covered in hundreds of carved Runic characters, along with detailed artistic scratchings of a dragon, an otter, and complex knotwork. Realizing the significance of finding Norse carvings in a region where none had previously been recorded, Farrer meticulously transcribes and measures the staves. He expands his exploration to surrounding sites, excavating smaller barrows at Bookan, Stenness, and Tenstone, where he discovers stone kists containing human remains, flint spearheads, and ancient micaceous stone urns filled with burnt bone.

The second half of the book shifts from field excavation to intellectual synthesis. Farrer compiles the readings of three prominent nineteenth-century runologists—Professors George Stephens, P. A. Munch, and Carl Christian Rafn—to decipher the text carved into Maeshowe's walls. The translation process reveals a lively spectrum of voices: Scandinavian Vikings, crusaders, and treasure-seekers who broke into the barrow centuries after its prehistoric construction. The inscriptions record personal names, boasts of carving skill, references to legendary figures like Ragnar Lodbrok, and provocative claims of hidden gold buried nearby.

Ultimately, Farrer weaves these varied scholars' hypotheses into a broader analysis of Orkney’s history. While the experts debate whether the mound served as a sorcery hall, a tomb for a noblewoman, or a Viking refuge, Farrer concludes that the barrow itself predates the Norsemen, who later repurposed and vandalized the ancient tomb, leaving their signatures as lasting monuments of their passage.

How It Unfolds

The expedition gathers Farrer initiates the excavation in July 1861 with permission from David Balfour, organizing a team of local contractors and visiting Edinburgh scholars to breach the mysterious tumulus at Maeshowe.

Breaching the tomb Workmen clear the western face of the mound, exposing a narrow, slab-lined entry tunnel that leads into a towering central chamber built of drystone masonry and supported by massive corner buttresses.

Discovering the runes While clearing piles of debris from the interior, sharp-eyed team members spot the first delicate Runic inscriptions carved high up on the stone walls, alongside etchings of dragons and intricate serpentine designs.

Opening neighboring barrows Farrer expands his dig to nearby sites at Bookan and Tenstone, unearthing ancient burial kists, distorted human remains, flint implements, and fragile micaceous stone urns filled with ash.

Translating the staves Copies of the 935 Runic letters are sent to leading Scandinavian scholars, who offer competing readings that range from simple graffiti to records of crusaders, legendary heroes, and buried plunder.

Synthesizing the past Farrer weighs the experts' conflicting theories, concluding that Maeshowe is a prehistoric burial mound that was breached and inscribed by Norse raiders and travelers centuries after its creation.

The People

James Farrer The driven Yorkshire politician and amateur archaeologist who finances and directs the excavation. He wants to uncover the secret history of the Orkney mounds and present an accurate, unvarnished record of facts to the scholarly community.

George Petrie A meticulous local antiquarian who provides essential measurements, architectural plans, and guidance throughout the dig. He aims to protect Orkney's heritage while assisting Farrer in documenting every physical detail of the structure.

Joseph Robertson An Edinburgh scholar whose keen eye first detects the faint Runic carvings on the chamber walls. He seeks to establish the historical connection between Scandinavian Norsemen and Scottish antiquities.

Professors Stephens, Munch, and Rafn The trio of eminent European runologists who analyze the inscriptions. Each strives to decipher the obscure letters, fiercely debating whether the texts describe magical sorcery halls, Viking fortresses, or crusader raids.

The Norse Carvers The historic travelers—such as Tholf, Vemund, Hermund Hardaxe, and Gauk Traenaldson—who broke into the chamber centuries prior. They sought shelter, treasure, or fame, carving their names, jokes, and boasts across the ancient stones.

In Its Own Voice

"The important fact of the existence of Runic inscriptions in Orkney, where none had hitherto been found, was at once established."

This sentence captures the moment of discovery inside the newly opened chamber, marking a turning point for Scottish archaeology.

"Many a woman has wandered stooping in here (although) ever so haughty."

Carved onto the low stone entrance, this translated line reflects the playful, human observations left behind by medieval Norse visitors.

"I desire only to give a plain statement of facts, in the hope that attention may be drawn to this interesting discovery..."

Written in the preface, Farrer outlines his goal to present physical evidence to the public without embellishment or unwarranted speculation.

What It's Really About

Beneath its dry technical measurements and cataloged inscriptions, the book is about the layering of human history across a single landscape. Farrer explores how an ancient, prehistoric sacred site—built by forgotten hands without mortar—was reinterpreted, reused, and written upon by later generations of Norse travelers. The book examines the intersection of physical archaeology and linguistic decay, showing how time erodes both stone and word. By placing conflicting scholarly interpretations side by side, Farrer subtly highlights the uncertainty of historical translation, demonstrating how a handful of carved runes can evoke wildly different visions of the past.

Why Read It Today

This volume appeals to readers fascinated by archaeology, Nordic history, and the raw romance of discovery. Reading Farrer feels like stepping into a cold, newly opened stone vault alongside nineteenth-century gentlemen in tweed, holding lanterns up to mysterious carvings untouched for centuries. The book offers a firsthand look at the birth of modern excavation methods, balancing field reporting with early linguistic analysis.

Modern readers should be prepared for its formal Victorian prose and scientific cataloging. Large portions of the text consist of dimensional measurements, technical descriptions of stone slabs, and line-by-line comparative translations of Old Norse staves. Yet, this precise detail is precisely what makes the book memorable. The contrast between the cold, careful measurements of the Victorian excavators and the coarse, boasting graffiti of the medieval Vikings—bragging about their axes, their women, and their search for gold—creates an unforgettable portrait of human nature spanning a thousand years.