Our Hawaii

In Short

This book serves as both a travelogue and a deeply personal reflection on the Hawaiian Islands during the early 20th century. Originally compiled from the journals of the author and the articles of her husband, Jack London, the work documents their extended stays in the islands, ranging from leisurely days at Waikiki to challenging treks across rugged volcanic landscapes. It endures as a vivid historical snapshot, detailing local customs, the social dynamics of the period, and the authors' own quest for a place of repose, all while framed by an enduring, heartfelt affection for the people and the land.

The Story

The narrative begins with the author’s reflections on her life with her husband, Jack, as they transition from their adventurous sailing days on the ketch Snark to a more grounded, though no less curious, exploration of Hawaii. The arc of the book is defined by the couple’s return visits, moving from their initial discovery of the islands to their eventual immersion into the social and physical geography of the Territory. As they navigate Honolulu’s refined social circles and the rustic, isolated beauty of the outer islands, the text documents a wide variety of experiences: the couple enjoys the hospitality of local families, learns the intricacies of surfing, and engages in spirited intellectual debates with island elites.

The tone shifts frequently, moving from the lighthearted camaraderie of garden parties and the discovery of native delicacies like poi to the stark, somber reality of visiting a leper settlement, where the author observes the isolation of the residents with profound empathy. This balance between the idyllic and the difficult continues as they traverse hazardous mountain trails and explore the raw, elemental power of volcanic craters. Throughout these travels, the author depicts a Hawaii in the midst of transformation, where the influence of the "inevitable white man" is felt alongside the fading, yet persistent, echoes of the indigenous culture.

As the narrative progresses, the focus narrows to the couple’s desire for a permanent refuge. They plan for a future in the islands, romanticizing the potential for quiet work and seclusion in lush valleys or high-altitude ranch houses. However, the shadow of external pressures—such as the persistent misrepresentation of Jack’s political views and the general fatigue of public life—permeates their later days in the islands. The story reaches its conclusion with the author’s departure from Honolulu, a poignant moment marked by the traditional generosity of the Hawaiian people. As she boards the ship, surrounded by floral wreaths and the strains of Aloha Oe, the narrative solidifies into a final, bittersweet farewell. It is a work that captures the transition from "Our Hawaii"—a shared discovery—to "My Hawaii," a deeply personal sanctuary of memory and affection that remained with the author long after the physical journey ended.

How It Unfolds

The arrival of the outsiders The author introduces the premise of the book, positioning it as an evolution of her previous journals and a collection of her husband’s observations. They begin by establishing their presence in the islands, highlighting the contrast between their seafaring background and their newfound life among the local residents.

The social and cultural landscape The narrative moves into detailed descriptions of the couple’s integration into Honolulu’s social life, including their interaction with native Hawaiian nobility and the colonial elite. The author meticulously documents the customs they encounter, from the preparation of food to the revival of traditional sports like surfing.

The encounter with the rugged wild The focus shifts to the physical challenges of the archipelago, particularly the dangerous ascent of the pali to visit a leper settlement and the taxing exploration of volcanic regions. These sections illustrate the author’s keen eye for natural beauty, even in the midst of extreme environmental difficulty.

Reflections on power and society The book examines the political and social tensions of the era, including Jack London’s public lectures and the complexities of labor and class in a plantation-dominated territory. The author acknowledges the colonial influence while simultaneously seeking to honor the dignity of the local people.

The final farewell The conclusion centers on the author’s eventual departure, reflecting on the profound impact the islands had on her and her husband. The final scenes emphasize the emotional resonance of the local hospitality and the lasting, idealized connection the author feels toward the region.

The People

The book is anchored by the presence of the author, Charmian London, and her husband, Jack London. Charmian acts as the observant, warm-hearted narrator, deeply concerned with capturing the nuances of their environment and the genuine hospitality they receive. Jack is portrayed as an energetic, intellectually restless figure who seeks both stimulation and escape from the public scrutiny that often misrepresents his character. Their shared desire for adventure is tempered by a growing need for a place where they can find "quietude and work," a goal that remains elusive.

Surrounding them is a diverse cast of local figures, including the "kamaaina"—long-time residents—and the indigenous Hawaiians who represent the cultural heart of the islands. Figures like the aging Queen Liliuokalani appear as poignant symbols of a "close and vivid past," treated with a reverence that highlights the couple’s deep respect for the history they are witnessing. Other characters, such as the enthusiastic promoter Alexander Hume Ford or the resilient local families who host the couple, provide a sense of the social fabric of the territory. These interactions serve as the primary obstacles and facilitators of their journey; the couple’s ability to move through these varied layers of society—from the royal veranda to the labor camp—depends entirely on their willingness to set aside preconceptions and engage with the people on their own terms.

In Its Own Voice

"Like the invading whites who dispossessed the native Hawaiians of their land, so did the lantana to the native vegetation."

The author uses this metaphor to describe the aggressive nature of introduced plant species that threatened to overtake the natural landscape.

"I think the Hawaiians are quick to detect a meretricious gayety or any patronizing, overdone familiarity; and to make them feel one’s genuine interest in their customs is the only means by which to establish a basis of confidence."

This observation highlights the social sensitivity required to navigate the cultural divide between the newcomers and the local population.

"As I had been welcomed for two, so I departed for two; and my speeding was two-fold."

Reflecting on her final departure, the author acknowledges how the island’s influence remained with her as a source of comfort and personal meaning.

What It's Really About

At its core, the book is a meditation on the tension between the transient nature of the traveler and the desire for a permanent, idealized home. It asks how one can truly know a place when they are an outsider—a malihini—in a rapidly Westernizing society. The argument is not a formal one, but rather an experiential series of questions: How do the vestiges of a royal past coexist with a modernizing, plantation-driven economy? How does the "alien good" of development balance against the "alien ill" of introduced diseases and invasive species? The work grapples with the inherent melancholy of witnessing a culture in flux, suggesting that while the islands offer a profound sense of beauty and belonging, that peace is fragile, constantly threatened by the inevitable march of external, globalizing forces.

Why Read It Today

Readers who enjoy immersive, turn-of-the-century travelogues will find much to admire in these pages. The prose is rich and observational, capturing the specific quality of light in a volcanic crater or the precise way an island meal is prepared. It feels like stepping into a private journal, one filled with the sensory details of a world that has since been transformed by decades of tourism and development.

However, the modern reader should be prepared for the realities of the period. The text carries the era’s unquestioned colonial attitudes, and the language occasionally reflects the paternalistic perspectives of the early 20th century. While the author’s empathy for the Hawaiian people is genuine and consistent, the book remains a document of its time, sometimes struggling to reconcile the couple’s romanticization of the land with the harsh, often exploitative reality of the sugar industry and labor imports.

Ultimately, what stays with you is the sense of longing that permeates the narrative. For those interested in the history of Hawaii, the biography of the Londons, or simply the experience of reading a beautifully rendered, if occasionally dated, account of a life in transit, this book provides a rare, intimate perspective on a transformative moment in island history.