Pausanias' description of Greece, Volume II

In Short

This travelogue surveys four major regions of ancient Greece: Achaia, Arcadia, Bœotia, and Phocis. The narrative moves geographically from town to countryside, cataloging local histories, civic monuments, sacred sanctuaries, and regional mythologies. Along the way, historical accounts of battles—such as the decisive clashes at Leuctra and the Sacred War at Delphi—blend with local lore, artistic descriptions, and reflections on human nature. The work has endured because it serves as an irreplaceable topographical record of classical antiquity, capturing the lived geography, religious traditions, and artistic heritage of the ancient Mediterranean world before time erased them.

The Story

The text unfolds as an expansive itinerary across the ancient Greek mainland, beginning in Achaia along the Corinthian Gulf. It opens by tracing the early lineage of the land from king Ægialeus and the exile of Xuthus, whose descendants Ion and Achæus reshaped the region's identity. The narrative moves through political history, lamenting how internal treason consistently undermined Greek liberty, culminating in Callicrates subjecting the Achæans to Roman dominance. Alongside political commentary, local traditions emerge, such as the tragic love of Comætho and Melanippus at Artemis Triclaria’s sanctuary, which provoked divine plague and human sacrifice until Eurypylus brought a sacred chest containing Dionysus. Urban landscapes like Pellene reveal civic pride, featuring gold-and-ivory statues by Phidias, underground shrines, and athletic triumphs.

Passing into Arcadia, the route traverses rugged roads and sacred plains. At Mantinea, the narrative recounts the death of the brilliant Theban general Epaminondas, who watched his final battle from a vantage point called Scope before succumbing to his wound. Arcadian lore connects deeply to the gods: Mount Thaumasium claims the legend of Rhea hiding the infant Zeus from Cronos with the help of the Giants. In Tegea, history honors the bravery of local women who, led by Marpessa, ambushed Spartan invaders and captured King Charillus, establishing a unique sacrifice to Ares as the "Women's Feast."

In Bœotia, the narrative examines the dramatic shifting fortunes of Thebes, from its glorious victory over Sparta at Leuctra to its ruinous defeat by Alexander the Great, preceded by ominous black spiderwebs in Demeter's sanctuary. The journey visits coastal Tanagra, noting Orion's tomb, the meditating figure of Atlas, and a peculiar headless statue of a Triton killed after drinking local wine. At Haliartus, a critical assessment of the Spartan commander Lysander balances his tactical genius with his ruthless execution of Athenian prisoners.

The final leg explores Phocis, opening with military stratagems such as the Phocians smearing themselves with white plaster to terrify their Thessalian foes. Financial desperation drives Philomelus to seize the Delphi sanctuary, triggering a grueling ten-year Sacred War. The narrative catalogues prophetic figures across history, including the Sibyl Herophile and the Hebrew prophetess Sabbe. It recounts the dramatic defense of Greece against the invading Celts under Brennus, who were repulsed at Thermopylæ and Delphi. The work concludes at Delphi itself, describing its grand theatre and marble stadium before ascending Mount Parnassus to explore the lofty Corycian cavern, sacred to Pan and the Nymphs, where natural spring water drops perpetually from the high roof.

How It Unfolds

Surveying Achaia's legacy The journey commences along the Corinthian Gulf, tracing the tribal origins of the Ionians and Achæans from ancient royal successions. Historical reflection condemns the persistent vice of treason that eventually subjected the cities to Roman rule. At Pellene, civic shrines, Phidias's ivory Athene, and local athletic champions illustrate the cultural vitality of the towns.

Crossing Arcadian terrain Traversing the heart of the Peloponnese, the narrative visits battlefields and sacred mountains. At Mantinea, the death of Epaminondas is recounted alongside legendary origins, such as Rhea concealing the infant Zeus on Mount Thaumasium. In Tegea's marketplace, the story highlights the victory of armed local women who defeated Spartan invaders.

Observing Bœotia's triumphs and trials Entering Bœotia, the narrative records the dramatic political fortunes of Thebes, from its battlefield triumph at Leuctra to its fall before Alexander. Coastal towns like Tanagra present curious wonders, including Orion's tomb, Atlas meditating at Polus, and a headless Triton statue. At Haliartus, an appraisal of Lysander balances his tactical victories with his severe dishonor in executing captives.

Witnessing Phocian stratagems and wars In Phocis, the account recalls ingenious military tactics, such as soldiers painting themselves with white plaster during a night raid against Thessalians. Impoverished Phocians under Philomelus seize the sanctuary at Delphi, initiating a destructive decade-long Sacred War. The narrative also catalogs inspired prophetesses, from local Sibyls to international figures like Sabbe.

Repelling Celtic invasions at the oracle The defense of Greece reaches a dramatic pitch as the Celtic leader Brennus marches through mountain passes toward Delphi. Local forces and Greek allies unite to turn back the invaders with divine assistance and tactical harrying. The narrative captures the panic and resilience of local populations defending their sacred ground.

Reaching the heights of Mount Parnassus The expedition culminates at Delphi, surveying its famous theatre and the grand stadium restored with Pentelican marble. Leaving the urban sanctuary, the route climbs up Mount Parnassus to the remarkable Corycian cavern. The survey closes inside this spacious, light-filled cave, describing its dripping water, natural springs, and dedication to Pan and the Nymphs.

The People

Epaminondas seeks to elevate Thebes into a leading position among Greek states. Standing in his way are the entrenched military supremacy of Sparta and Athens. He achieves remarkable military glory, transforming the dejected Thebans into victorious leaders at Leuctra, but his ambition culminates at Mantinea, where he is mortally wounded and dies on the field after watching his soldiers prevail.

Lysander strives to secure total naval and political dominance for Sparta across the Mediterranean world. Standing in his way are Athenian fleets and ethical constraints. Although he demonstrates tactical brilliance at Ægos-potamoi and personal fairness in domestic disputes, his legacy is fundamentally corrupted by his cruelty, including the execution of four thousand Athenian captives and the installation of harsh decemvirates.

Philomelus aims to rescue the Phocian people from ruinous financial penalties levied by the Amphictyonic Council. Standing in his way is a desperate lack of resources and hostile neighboring cities like Thebes. He persuades his people to seize the sacred temple at Delphi to hire mercenaries, initiating a grueling decade of war that ends when he leaps off a precipitous crag in defeat.

Brennus desires to pillage the wealthy sanctuaries of Greece with his Celtic army. Standing in his way are steep mountain passes, persistent guerrilla warfare, and local defenders protecting Delphi. His headlong assault fails as local allies harry his rear guard and natural barriers halt his progress, leaving his invasion shattered.

In Its Own Voice

Addressing the fall of Achaia, the text reflects on the moral failings that doomed Greek political independence:

"But the most impious of all crimes, the betrayal of one’s country and fellow citizens for gain, was destined to bring about the destruction of the Achæans, a crime that has ever troubled Greece."

Recording early prophetic chants at Dodona, the narrative captures ancient devotional poetry dedicated to divine order:

"Zeus was, Zeus is, Zeus shall be. O great Zeus! Earth yields us fruits, let us then call her Mother."

Skepticism toward local claims of unblemished prosperity prompts a grounded reflection on human fortune:

"No doubt one man will have less trouble than another, as one ship will suffer less from tempests than another ship: but that a man should always stand aloof from misfortune, or that a ship should never encounter a storm, is a thing which does not answer to human experience."

What It's Really About

Underneath its topographical details, the work examines how cultural memory and religious worship sustain civic identity across generations. It investigates the tension between ideal divine order and human vulnerability, illustrating how sacrilege or moral failing invites catastrophe while piety and civic bravery offer protection. Political betrayal emerges as a recurrent tragic flaw, explaining how internal division continually leaves free cities open to external conquest by powers like Macedonia and Rome. Furthermore, the text explores the preservation of local traditions against the unifying pull of pan-Hellenic myth, documenting how isolated towns maintain distinct legends, unique titles for the gods, and local hero cults. Ultimately, it asks how a civilization records and remembers its sacred spaces before time and warfare diminish them.

Why Read It Today

Modern readers passionate about ancient history, classical archaeology, and regional folklore will find this volume an extraordinary window into antiquity. Reading it feels like walking alongside a patient, deeply observant guide who stops at every boundary marker, grave mound, and sanctuary to explain its significance. The prose combines geographic precision with anecdotal richness, transforming physical ruins into vivid stages for myth and historical struggle.

However, the text presents genuine challenges for a contemporary audience. The narrative style is exhaustive and non-linear, often interrupting political histories with detailed genealogical trees, local athletic records, and lists of statuary. Readers must navigate dense layers of obscure place names, archaic lineages, and ancient regional rivalries. Furthermore, the perspective is firmly rooted in its period context, reflecting ancient attitudes toward religious omens, divine retribution, and gender roles, alongside a credulous acceptance of local omens paired with occasional rationalist skepticism.

What endures is the profound sense of place and human memory. It offers an irreplaceable, firsthand tapestry of the Greek landscape where sacred myth, artistic beauty, and historical tragedy remain permanently etched into the soil.