Pencillings by the Way: Written During Some Years of Residence and Travel in Europe

In Short

Pencillings by the Way is a lively, wide-ranging travel memoir documenting an American author’s multi-year journey through France, Italy, Switzerland, and England during the 1830s. Moving from the high-society ballrooms of Paris and the grand art galleries of Florence and Rome to the literary salons of London, the author records his impressions of European life, culture, and famous personalities. The narrative balances vivid descriptions of architectural wonders and natural landscapes with keen social observations, candid accounts of continental poverty, and gossipy encounters with prominent figures. It endures as a charming, visually rich time capsule of nineteenth-century European travel, captured through the inquisitive eyes of an observant American outsider.

The Story

The narrative opens with a harrowing yet exhilarating crossing of the Atlantic Ocean. Emerging from a week of confinement in his berth during a storm, the author marvels at the majestic twelve-mile radius of heaving, colorful waves, establishing at once his romantic eye for visual detail and outdoor splendor.

Upon landing in Europe, he makes his way to Paris, a city of dazzling contrasts that serves as his initial cultural anchor. He spends hours wandering through the vast galleries of the Louvre, admiring its architectural perfection, and marvels at the opulent gaiety of the Palais Royal with its sparkling shops, colonnades, and central fountain. Yet his curiosity also draws him to the city's darker corners, such as the gruesome animal-fighting arenas in the suburbs, where bloodied dogs and mangled wild beasts reveal the rougher tastes of the populace. He attends grand royal balls at the Tuileries, where King Louis Philippe and the royal family mingle with glittering crowds, and reflects on the immortal legacy of Napoleon while visiting the Hôtel des Invalides and the unadorned tomb of Turenne.

Leaving Paris, the journey continues south through the French countryside. The author notes the stark, uncomfortable divide between extreme luxury and pervasive peasant poverty, expressing a longing for American thrift while acknowledging the picturesque charm of ancient churches and cathedrals like the one at Sens. Passing through Toulon and Antibes, he is captivated by the Mediterranean coastline, comparing its lush, garden-like scenery to the environs of Boston.

Crossing into Italy, the narrative assumes a softer, more poetic tone. In Florence, the author strolls among dark-eyed locals enjoying outdoor festivals in leafy glades, attends church services where sacred music echoes through grand arches, and studies famous artworks. His travels take him to Venice, where he experiences the grim history of state dungeons and walks across the Bridge of Sighs, and through ancient towns like Modena, Bologna, and Viterbo, where he observes a midnight vintage procession of singing girls bearing torches.

The journey reaches a peak in Rome during Holy Week. The author attends grand religious ceremonies at the Vatican, watching the Pope distribute palms in the Sistine Chapel, and explores classic ruins and private art collections, including the famed portrait of Beatrice Cenci. Traveling further south to Naples, he enters the city amidst the colorful chaos of the carnival and catches sight of the young, celebrated Queen of Naples.

After traversing the Alps via the Simplon Pass and visiting Voltaire’s estate at Ferney near Geneva, the author arrives in London. HereA spirited young American writer sets out to explore the historic sights, glittering salons, and shadowy alleyways of 1830s Europe, taking notes on everything from royal balls to dog fights.

In Short

Pencillings by the Way is a charming, wide-ranging travel narrative that records the observations of American author N. Parker Willis during his multi-year sojourn across Europe in the early 1830s. Journeying through France, Italy, Asia Minor, and Great Britain, Willis captures the physical landscapes, artistic treasures, and high-society dynamics of a rapidly changing Old World. Written originally as a series of lively letters for an American newspaper, the book balances detailed accounts of historic monuments and fine art with candid glimpses into royal courts and famous literary circles. It survives as a vivid, engaging time capsule of nineteenth-century European culture seen through the eyes of an observant American outsider.

The Story

The narrative opens with a dramatic transatlantic sea voyage. After enduring a week of stormy weather confined to his berth, the author ventures onto the deck, spellbound by the sheer splendor of the sunlit ocean swells and the exhilaration of the open sea. Upon arriving on the Continent, he makes his way to Paris, a city of jarring contrasts that immediately captures his imagination. He marvels at the architectural grandeur of the Louvre and the bustling, brilliant galleries of the Palais Royal, where glittering jewelers' shops sit alongside notorious gambling houses. Yet his curiosity also draws him into the grimmer corners of the French capital, including a brutal animal-fighting arena in the suburbs, where bloodied dogs and mangled wild beasts are set against one another for public entertainment. At the opposite end of the social spectrum, he attends a magnificent ball at the Tuileries Palace, observing King Louis-Philippe and the royal family amidst a sea of vibrant uniforms, nodding feathers, and blazing chandeliers.

Leaving Paris, Willis travels southward through the French countryside, passing poverty-stricken villages and ancient stone cathedrals, such as the moss-crusted structure at Sens. Reaching the coast at Toulon and Antibes, he is captivated by the Mediterranean climate, the vibrant damask roses, and the distant, snow-capped Alps. Crossing into Italy, the journey takes on a romantic, antiquarian tone. In Florence, he wanders through festival grounds where dark-eyed Tuscans feast under the trees, but he also notices the stark, somber contrast between the gilded interiors of Catholic churches and the impoverished, tattered worshippers kneeling upon the cold marble floors.

In Venice, Willis crosses the Bridge of Sighs and descends into the damp, dark subterranean dungeons of the old republic, shuddering at the historic instruments of execution and the tragic traces left behind by long-forgotten state prisoners. Heading further south toward Rome and Naples, he traverses mountain passes accompanied by fearful local guides and middle-aged priests who point out roadside crosses marking the sites of past robberies and murders. He witnesses the destruction caused by a recent earthquake in St. Angelo, where shattered cathedrals stand open to the elements, before arriving in Naples during the final days of Carnival to see the beautiful young Queen ride through cheering crowds. In Rome, he joins thousands of international travelers gathered for Holy Week, securing a place in the Sistine Chapel to watch the Pope present palms and perform ancient rituals.

After touring the historic ruins and art collections of Central Italy, Willis journeys north toward Switzerland and Great Britain. He passes through Bologna, where he catches a transcendent final performance by the famed opera singer Maria Malibran, and ascends the Simplon Pass across the Alps into Geneva. Settling eventually in London, his travelogue shifts from landscapes and antiquities to the intimate drawing-room culture of the British elite. Hosted by the prominent literary hostess Lady Blessington, Willis gains entry to an exclusive social circle. He provides sharp, memorable sketches of famous writers, editors, and artists of the day, listening to Tom Moore sing touching melodies at the piano and observing the peculiar social customs of the English gentry before concluding his European travels.

How It Unfolds

The voyage begins The author sets sail across the Atlantic, enduring severe weather before emerging onto the deck to marvel at the magnificent, shifting colors of the open ocean. He spends hours watching the tremendous waves, completely unbothered by the spray soaking his clothes.

Arrival in Paris Willis explores the vibrant French capital, visiting the expansive art galleries of the Louvre and the brilliant, bustling arcades of the Palais Royal. His wanderings lead him from royal palaces to the squalid outskirts, where he observes a bloody animal-fighting pit.

Journey to the Mediterranean Travelling through the French provinces, Willis observes the deep poverty of rural villages alongside ancient, moss-covered cathedrals. He reaches the coastal towns of Toulon and Antibes, delighting in the balmy air, fresh roses, and views of the blue sea backed by snow-capped mountains.

Exploring Northern and Central Italy In Florence, Venice, and Bologna, Willis immerses himself in Italian art, local festivals, and sobering historical sites. He descends into dark Venetian dungeons, marvels at classic temples along glassy streams, and navigates complex Austrian border checkpoints.

Rome and the Southern Capitals Willis witnesses the tragic ruin left by earthquakes in small towns before reaching Naples for Carnival and Rome for Holy Week. He attends elaborate ceremonies in the Sistine Chapel and tours classic ruins, ancient groves, and rich private art galleries.

Across the Alps to London Crossing the Simplon Pass into Switzerland, Willis bids farewell to the Continent and travels to England. In London, he enters the famous salon of Lady Blessington, spending his evenings among celebrated poets, politicians, and intellectuals.

The People

• N. Parker Willis (The Author)

An inquisitive, cultured young American writer who desires to see every facet of European life, from high political circles to obscure suburban haunts. Armed with an official attache commission that helps him bypass difficult border officials, he maintains a balance of aesthetic appreciation and republican pragmatism, often contrasting European poverty and aristocratic excess with the industry of his homeland.

• King Louis-Philippe

The ruler of France, seen hosting a grand ball at the Tuileries Palace. He maneuvers through the glittering crowd with an "eternal and painfully forced smile," attempting to make personal conversation with every second guest while surrounded by military guards and royal luxury.

• The Priest of Monte-Cimino

A fat, bald, middle-aged cleric whom Willis overtakes on a mountain road in Italy. Terrified of roadside robbers, he begs Willis to keep him company for protection, alternating between recounting gruesome tales of past murders and bursting into loud, booming laughter.

• Lady Blessington

A celebrated London literary hostess who gathers the most prominent figures of British intellectual and political life into her fashionable drawing room. She creates a warm, refined atmosphere where authors, editors, and artists assemble to debate politics and listen to music.

• Thomas Moore

The famous Irish poet and musician, who sits among Lady Blessington's guests at the piano. He performs poignant songs with such intense emotional clarity and tenderness that he leaves the entire room stunned and weeping in silence long after he departs.

In Its Own Voice

When looking out across the open ocean after days of confinement, the author reflects on the staggering, dynamic beauty of the water:

"I do not hesitate to say that the formation, progress, and final burst of a sea-wave, in a bright sun, are the most gorgeously beautiful sight under heaven."

Contemplating the grand, austere simplicity of Napoleon's memorial inside the Invalides, Willis notes the dramatic change made to a predecessor's monument:

"The emperor removed and replaced it by a small slab, graven with the single word TURENNE."

Observing the distinct, lively atmosphere of a rural Tuscan holiday, he describes the picturesque gathering of locals under the foliage:

"The scenes were peculiar and perfectly Italian."

What It's Really About

Beneath its charming accounts of picturesque views and famous figures, Pencillings by the Way explores the deep cultural contrasts between the Old World and the New. Willis continually measures the splendor of European aristocracy against the widespread poverty and political decay he finds in the surrounding cities and countryside. He scrutinizes the moral ambiguity of European civilization, noting how immense artistic genius, religious grandeur, and social refinement exist side-by-side with wretched squalor, brutal public entertainments, and historic tyranny. The text also investigates the nature of celebrity and public life, capturing how historical figures like Napoleon leave indelible marks on the landscape, while living icons like poets and monarchs navigate the rigid expectations of their respective societies.

Why Read It Today

Pencillings by the Way offers modern readers an unvarnished, immediate, and wonderfully atmospheric portal into 1830s Europe. Willis writes with the clean, energetic eye of a trained journalist and the sensitivity of a poet, rendering dynamic seascapes, crowded opera houses, and quiet mountain roads with remarkable visual clarity. Readers who enjoy nineteenth-century history, travel literature, or intimate glimpses of famous literary figures—such as Thomas Moore and Leigh Hunt—will find his personal sketches both illuminating and entertaining.

The book does reflect the casual biases, cultural assumptions, and period attitudes of an affluent nineteenth-century traveler. Willis expresses blunt disdain for local poverty, displays typical Protestant skepticism toward Catholic religious practices, and occasionally dismisses foreign customs with sharp American pragmatism. Yet his tone remains predominantly curious, open-hearted, and candid. Free of dry academic formality, his writings feel remarkably fresh, inviting readers to experience the grand tour of Europe precisely as it looked, sounded, and felt nearly two centuries ago.