Riviera Towns

In Short

This book is a collection of essays documenting a series of excursions through the towns of the Alpes-Maritimes region in the early 20th century. Accompanied by his artist friend, the author explores places like Grasse, Cagnes, and Saint-Paul-du-Var, balancing architectural observation with philosophical musings on the nature of tourism and the pace of modern life. It has lasted because of its evocative, atmospheric prose, which captures the distinct light and enduring character of the Riviera before mass tourism fundamentally altered its quiet, medieval core.

The Story

The journey begins at the author’s home base in Théoule, where he observes the nearby hill town of Grasse as a constant but neglected temptation. The arc of the book follows a series of day trips taken by the author and the Artist. They travel from the high, fortified streets of Grasse to the bustling, tram-connected modernism of Cagnes, and eventually to the medieval stone mazes of Saint-Paul-du-Var and Villeneuve-Loubet. Throughout these travels, the two men seek out the authentic experience of the region, often finding themselves at odds with the "cosmopolitanism" that threatens to erase the unique local character of these ancient settlements.

As the narrative progresses, the author moves between the high-altitude silence of mountain villages and the busy, international atmosphere of coastal resorts like Nice and Monte Carlo. He reflects on the irony of modern travelers, who flock to the Riviera seeking escape from the very machines and schedules they rely on in their daily lives. The story is not one of a single, linear mission but rather a cumulative education in "seeing." The author learns to appreciate the specific, arid beauty of the region—the lack of water-fed green, the intensity of the light, and the way the colors of the landscape shift with the sun.

The narrative reaches a point of synthesis at Fréjus and Saint-Raphaël. Here, the author stops trying to separate the historical past from the present reality. He acknowledges that the aerodromes and modern transit networks are simply the latest layer in a long history of human movement, from Roman armies to Saracen raids. The book concludes back at the Villa Étoile in Théoule. After all the exploration, the author finds contentment in the simple act of watching the sea, having accepted that the beauty of the Riviera lies in its constant, shifting presence. He admits that while he once pursued the thrill of the "untouched," he now understands that the most profound experience comes from learning to belong to the place as it actually is, in all its complexity.

How It Unfolds

The temptation of the nearby The author acknowledges how easily we ignore the wonders at our own doorstep, choosing to travel to distant lands while Grasse remains unexplored for months. He eventually decides to cross the threshold, setting the stage for a journey rooted in the local rather than the exotic.

The shift from ancient to modern The transition between the centuries is marked by the presence of the electric tramway. The author contrasts the quiet, stone-walled existence of the hill dwellers with the "clang of tramway gongs" that characterizes the world below.

The discovery of the hill towns In Saint-Paul-du-Var and Villeneuve-Loubet, the rhythm slows to the pace of walking and climbing. The author observes the women at the public fountains and the way the architecture is dictated by the steep, rocky terrain of the mountainside.

The critique of the cosmopolitan coast In Nice and Monte Carlo, the author reflects on the lack of a strong "national consciousness," noting how a influx of foreign residents has diluted the local culture. He argues that these areas have lost their connection to the true spirit of the Midi.

The synthesis of the present At Fréjus, the author makes peace with the modern world, accepting the presence of military planes alongside ancient Roman ruins. He realizes that a place cannot be dissected; to understand it, one must embrace its entire, messy evolution.

The People

The author acts as a thoughtful, inquisitive guide who is constantly questioning his own motives for travel. He is a man who loves the history of a place but is prone to bouts of romanticism, which he often checks with dry humor. His companion, the Artist, provides a visual counterpoint to the author’s literary observations. The Artist is obsessed with "subjects"—the play of light on a mountain or the curve of a building—and is quick to express his frustration when the realities of life, such as social interruptions, interfere with his work.

Mademoiselle Simone represents the intersection of the old world and the new; her presence in the author’s story of Cagnes highlights the charm of the locale, yet she also embodies the modern, vibrant world that the author eventually realizes he must return to. The "oldest inhabitant" of Cagnes, who speaks with pride about the health benefits of climbing the hill, serves as a bridge to the past, reminding the author of the revolutionary spirit that once shaped the region. Finally, the "wife and critic," who accompanies the family on excursions, serves as the grounding force. She is the one who insists on accuracy, challenges the author’s romanticized views, and prevents the book from drifting too far into mere indulgence.

In Its Own Voice

"When we thank God unctuously that we live not as our ancestors lived and as the 'uncivilized' live today, we are displaying the decay of our mental faculties."

The author reflects on the arrogance of progress while staring at a chaotic, centuries-old building in Grasse.

"The Old Town takes you far from the psychology of cosmopolitanism and the philosophy of hedonism."

The author describes the profound shift in perspective that occurs when one leaves the modern coast for the high, quiet streets of a medieval town.

What It's Really About

The book is a meditation on the tension between our desire for the "authentic" and our comfort in the "familiar." It questions the value we place on progress, arguing that the modern world—with its railways, newspapers, and machine-driven speed—often blinds us to the subtle, enduring qualities of the landscape. The author suggests that the true value of travel is not in finding something new, but in developing the sensitivity to see the places we visit as part of a continuous, living history. It is a critique of the superficial tourist experience, urging the reader to move beyond the aesthetic "rave" and toward a deeper, more patient engagement with the world.

Why Read It Today

Readers who enjoy travelogues that prioritize atmosphere over itineraries will find this book deeply rewarding. It reads like a long, leisurely conversation with a well-traveled, slightly opinionated friend. The prose is precise and elegant, carrying a warmth that makes the reader feel the heat of the sun on the red shale and the chill of the mountain air. It is a wonderful companion for anyone interested in the history of the Riviera, particularly those who prefer the rugged, inland hill towns to the glitz of the coast.

However, modern readers should be prepared for the author’s period-specific attitudes, including the occasionally dismissive tone toward the "cosmopolitan" or foreign influences that define the region today. There is also a distinct lack of interest in the perspectives of the local people outside of their function as historical curiosities or local color. The book does not offer a modern guide; it offers a historical snapshot of a mindset. Its true power lies in its descriptive capacity; you will likely finish it with a sharpened eye for how architecture, light, and geography interact. It leaves you with the lingering, quiet realization that even the most "modern" places are built upon deep, ancient foundations that are well worth the effort to discover.