Ski-runs in the High Alps

In Short

This 1913 mountaineering manual and travelogue captures the pioneering era of high-Alpine ski touring in Switzerland. Author F. F. Roget balances technical advice on equipment, route planning, and avalanche mechanics with vivid narratives of multi-day mountain traverses. Blending practical instruction with romantic reflections on Alpine geography, history, and national character, the book serves as both a functional guidebook for early twentieth-century skiers and an evocative portrait of winter adventure. It endures as a foundational text documenting the birth of ski mountaineering, written with scholarly charm and firsthand authority.

The Story

The narrative opens with an intimate personal origin: in 1905, François Frédéric Roget buys a small pair of deal skis for his young daughter and a rougher pair for himself, inadvertently launching a second youth spent conquering the high Alps in winter. What begins as modest outings evolves into ambitious high-altitude expeditions alongside experienced companions, porters, and fellow pioneers like Arnold Lunn.

Roget establishes the core philosophical and tactical shift required for winter mountaineering. He argues that winter belongs to the ski-runner, who must break free from rigid summer routines, avoid the bottom of snow slopes, and dominate the high ridges. He details the technicalities of ascending long slopes using skins and mechanical aids, and emphasizes safety through curved downhill runs rather than dangerous, direct descents.

As the text progresses, Roget guides the reader through a series of grand Swiss expeditions. He chronicles harrowing misadventures, such as an evening rescue operation in the frozen Sanetsch gorge where an injured companion must be carried down an icy path on the back of a highland porter under lantern light. He details a glorious six-day traverse from Kandersteg to Guttannen, crossing high glacier passes like the Petersgrat and Grünhornlücke, resting in drafty mountain huts, and navigating the vast snow deserts around the Finsteraarhorn.

Interspersed among these expedition accounts are deep excursions into local geography, place-name origins, and culture. Roget demystifies romantic Alpine names—explaining that roots like Rosa refer to plain rocks rather than pink sunsets—and reflects on how the isolation of mountain life shaped the self-reliant, neutral character of the Swiss people.

The narrative culminates in pioneering traverses across the Valais and Bernina regions, including the historic first ski-run from Bourg St. Pierre to Zermatt. Along the way, Roget records the triumphs and tragedies of early winter mountaineering, noting both the thrill of sweeping descents over moonlit glaciers and the ever-present dangers of severe frostbite and fatal avalanches. He closes with technical analyses of gear and avalanche risks, offering timeless guidance for safely navigating the high snows.

How It Unfolds

The voyage begins Prompted by the purchase of a nine-franc pair of toy skis for his daughter, an aging scholar takes to the snow and discovers a passion for winter mountaineering. He outlines the essential mindsets and technical precautions necessary for moving safely across high glaciers.

A night rescue in the Sanetsch After a misadventure leaves a team member injured on a remote pass, the party relies on local villagers and porters to carry the casualty down an icy gorge on foot. The ordeal highlights the severe consequences of winter errors and the resilience of highland rescuers.

Crossing the high glaciers Joining forces with Arnold Lunn, Roget embarks on a grand six-day expedition across the Oberland snowfields, lodging in drafty huts near the Finsteraarhorn. They measure their vertical progress in thousands of feet while enjoying exhilarating, moonlit descents over glazed snow slopes.

Unraveling Alpine myth and history Pausing the journey at serene spots like Vermala, the author explores the Celtic origins of Swiss place names and meditates on the independent, stoic spirit of the Swiss people. He contrasts romantic literary myths with the harsh, practical realities of mountain life.

Traversing from Bourg St. Pierre to Zermatt The expedition team completes a ground-breaking ski passage across complex passes and glaciers, arriving in Zermatt to a warm welcome of spiced wine. The victory is soon shadowed by news of deadly accidents and severe frostbite striking other contemporary expeditions.

Understanding the dynamics of snow The author breaks down the physical mechanics of avalanches, explaining how temperature shifts, wind pressure, and layered snow strata turn steep slopes into deadly traps. He provides rigorous practical rules for reading snow conditions and selecting safe terrain.

Refining the equipment Roget evaluates the evolving technology of the sport, offering a meticulous critique of metal ski-bindings, leather wire-sleeves, and climbing sealskins. He concludes with a foundational primer on winter clothing, ropes, and mountain etiquette for future runners.

The People

• F. F. Roget

The narrator and author, a middle-aged Swiss scholar who takes up ski-mountaineering late in life. He seeks the exhilarating freedom of high-altitude winter travel while advocating for methodical preparation, safety, and respect for nature’s forces.

• Arnold Lunn

A prominent British ski-pioneer and frequent expedition companion. He seeks efficient, long-distance glacier routes and tests new equipment—such as sealskins and novel binding designs—bringing a rigorous, organized approach to winter mountaineering.

• Ernest Marti

An exhausted companion during the Sanetsch pass misadventure. He endures the physical strain of an emergency retreat, carrying lamps and ropes through dark, frozen terrain to secure aid for his injured party.

• Louis Theytaz

A skilled local guide and mountain worker from Zinal who assists in pioneering the high route to Zermatt. He embodies the quiet competence of Alpine professionals, though his tragic death on a nearby glacier shortly after highlights the constant peril of winter work.

• Dr. König

A distinguished Geneva mountaineer who swiftly replicates Roget’s pioneering routes. Driven by a desire to push boundaries, his subsequent climbs inspire further winter assaults on formidable peaks like the Matterhorn.

In Its Own Voice

"The watchword of the good runner will always be—at those heights and distances where so much that is ahead must remain problematical—move onward on curves..." Roget emphasizes that safety on unpredictable high-altitude snow slopes requires continuous, flexible maneuvering rather than reckless speed.

"Somehow the memories of those six days have the power to impart something of the magical colourings of a winter sunset to the drab dullness of lowland evenings." Reflecting on a long glacier traverse, the author describes how the sublime beauty of the winter mountains provides lasting spiritual nourishment long after returning to daily life.

"A stratum of snow on a steep open slope is like a piece of cardboard balanced on your finger." In his explanation of avalanche mechanics, Roget uses a vivid physical analogy to illustrate how easily delicate snow layers lose their equilibrium.

What It's Really About

Behind its practical advice for ski-runners, the book explores the transformation of human relationship with the winter landscape. Roget argues that skis are not merely sporting toys, but instruments of liberation that allow humans to overcome the harsh constraints of nature. He examines how winter travel demands a shift in consciousness: one must abandon rigid summer habits and learn to read subtle environmental cues—wind, ice texture, and snow cohesion. Underneath the descriptions of pass traverses lies a meditation on self-reliance, national character, and the quiet moral strength forged by facing the silent, eternal forces of the high mountains.

Why Read It Today

Ski-runs in the High Alps appeals to historical enthusiasts, ski mountaineers, and lovers of classic travel literature. Reading it feels like sitting in an Alpine hotel parlor with an erudite, warm-hearted mentor who combines precise technical knowledge with a philosopher's soul. Roget’s prose is cultured and confident, rich with poetic observations of nature alongside practical tactical advice.

Modern readers should be prepared for archaic equipment discussions, occasional dense geographic details, and period assumptions about mountain guides and local peasantry. However, these historic quirks only enrich the book's authentic charm. What remains with you is the book's quiet wonder—the thrill of gliding across vast, untrodden snow deserts under the January moon, and the timeless reminder that winter mountains offer a profound sanctuary from the commonplace routines of modern life.

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