Spain in 1830, vol. 2

In Short

This second volume of Henry D. Inglis’s travel journal follows his journey through the southern and eastern regions of Spain in 1830. Traveling by carriage, horseback, and foot, Inglis records the daily rhythms of local life, from the majestic architecture of Seville and Granada to the impoverished rural hovels of La Mancha and Murcia. He evaluates regional economies, religious institutions, and political undercurrents, providing an eyewitness account of a country caught between its historic grandeur and nineteenth-century stagnation. The work endures for its observational detail, balanced tone, and vivid preservation of local customs, landscape, and everyday social realities.

The Story

Inglis begins his journey southward from Madrid through the historical region of La Mancha, crossing the rugged Sierra Morena to enter Andalusia. Stopping in small settlements like Manzanarez and Val de Peñas, he remarks on local winemaking, the severe poverty left in the wake of past wars, and sites linked to Cervantes. Navigating the mountain passes with local escorts, he makes his descent into Andalusia, observing a dramatic shift toward a warmer, more fertile landscape filled with olive groves and aloes.

Upon arriving in Seville, Inglis settles in near the Cathedral and the Alcazar. He observes Andalusian society, documenting evening traditions like the oracion prayer pause on the Paseo, the local orange trade along the Guadalquivir, and the city's celebrated art collections. Leaving Seville, he travels under armed escort across wild, uncultivated hills to Port St. Mary and crosses the bay to Cadiz. In Cadiz, Inglis notes the compact, sea-bound nature of the fortress city and reflects on its reputation for local elegance and vibrant nightlife.

Continuing his journey through Southern Spain, Inglis encounters logistical hurdles, strictly guarded city gates, and suspicious guides as he makes his way toward Gibraltar and Malaga. The dramatic coastal ascent out of Malaga brings sweeping views of sea and vine-covered valleys. In Granada, Inglis visits the Alhambra, reflecting on its historical associations with the Moorish empire and exploring the surrounding countryside, including hill-side hovels inhabited by the city's poorest residents.

Heading east toward Murcia, Valencia, and Catalonia, Inglis observes regional economic conditions. He tracks local prices, inspects state-run industries like saltpetre manufacturing, and details the agricultural productivity of the irrigated huertas. In Valencia, he notes how widespread begging is sustained by convent charity, contrasting this with Catalonia, where he finds greater commercial activity, safer roads, and a strong sense of tenant ownership. Arriving in Barcelona, Inglis examines the decline of foreign trade at the port, concluding his travelogue with historical reflections on regional conflicts before exiting the country.

How It Unfolds

Across La Mancha to Andalusia Leaving the capital behind, Inglis travels through the plains of La Mancha, noting small towns rebuilding from war and stopping at local inns. He hires mules to navigate the Sierra Morena pass, observing the sudden change in climate and vegetation as he descends into the Andalusian plain.

Seville and the Guadalquivir Inglis establishes himself in Seville, spending his days exploring its architectural landmarks, orange groves, and riverbanks. He documents urban life, including religious customs, local commerce, and the evening routines of the city's residents.

The Bay of Cadiz Traveling with an armed caravan for protection against highway robbers, Inglis reaches Port St. Mary and sails across the bay to Cadiz. He explores the densely built peninsula, its seawalls, and the social gatherings held in its public squares.

Coastal Trails to Granada Navigating rugged coastal paths and guarded town gates, Inglis moves eastward through Malaga before ascending into the mountains. In Granada, he spends days exploring the courts of the Alhambra and the excavated cave dwellings on the nearby hills.

Through the Eastern Huertas to Catalonia Moving through Murcia and Valencia, Inglis records market prices, agricultural irrigation systems, and the influence of religious institutions. Crossing into Catalonia, he observes an increase in local industry and concludes his trip in Barcelona, analyzing the city's declining maritime commerce.

The People

Henry D. Inglis The author and narrator, an observant Scottish travel writer seeking an accurate picture of Spanish society in 1830. He aims to document local agriculture, commerce, and daily life, routinely pushing past comfort to explore hidden sites and talk with locals.

Polinario A former highway robber who has abandoned his past life. He manages travel arrangements, offers advice on safe lodging, and ensures the narrator passes securely through bandit-prone territory.

The Orange Merchant of Seville A prominent local trader who hosts Inglis in Seville. He supplies detailed information regarding the harvest, economics, and export trade of Andalusian citrus.

The Young Cave-Dweller A impoverished woman living in an excavated hovel on the hills outside Granada. She provides Inglis with a glimpse into the stark living conditions of the region's lowest socio-economic class.

The Muleteers and Fellow Travelers A varied group of merchants, local workers, and drivers who accompany Inglis on the road. They share regional wine-skins, navigate mountain paths, and offer insight into local attitudes and daily struggles.

In Its Own Voice

"The whole multitude stands still; every head is uncovered; the laugh and the jest are silent; and a monotonous hum of prayer rises from the crowd: but this expression of devotion lasts but a moment--the next, it is past; heads are covered; every one turns to his neighbour, and says, 'Buenas noches;' and the multitude moves on."

Inglis describes the daily pause for the evening oracion on the crowded public promenade in Seville.

"A remarkable wild country stretches between Ecija and Carmona--most of it is crown land--and I believe few serious attempts have been made to people and fertilize it."

The author remarks on the wide, uncultivated expanses of land encountered along the main travel routes.

"Give to the labourers of the earth an interest,--a property in the land which they cultivate, and the world would become one wide extended garden."

Inglis reflects on the comparative industriousness of Catalonian farmers compared to those in other Spanish provinces.

What It's Really About

Beneath its narrative of daily travel, the book investigates the root causes of national prosperity and decline. Inglis continually contrasts the natural fertility and rich cultural heritage of Spain with the poverty, uncultivated land, and administrative stagnation he encounters. He examines how land tenure, trade monopolies, religious institutions, and local governance directly shape the well-being of the population. By comparing regions like Andalusia, Murcia, and Catalonia, Inglis argues that economic vitality relies on individual incentive, security, and productive land distribution rather than institutional charity or historical prestige.

Why Read It Today

This volume appeals to readers of historical travel literature, modern European history, and cultural geography. Reading Inglis feels like taking a deliberate, observant journey through a bygone era, guided by a writer whose calm precision balances the romance of early nineteenth-century travel. His descriptions of Andalusian orange groves, Moorish architecture, and coastal waters carry a quiet sensory appeal.

The text presents few barriers to the modern reader; Inglis writes in clear, accessible English with minimal archaic jargon. While his perspective remains tied to that of a nineteenth-century Northern European traveler—occasionally displaying a critical view of local religious practices and administrative inefficiency—his observations are grounded in direct experience rather than broad caricature. Readers willing to follow his methodical pace will gain a nuanced, highly visual portrait of Spain at a crucial historical crossroad.