Tempting curry dishes

In Short

This instructional volume serves as a practical manual for integrating curry into an American kitchen at the close of the nineteenth century. Far from being a dry collection of measurements, it functions as a manifesto for flavor, arguing that curry powder acts as both a tonic and a transformative agent for soups, sauces, and main courses. The book remains a fascinating historical artifact of the Gilded Age, capturing a moment when global spices were shifting from exotic luxuries to essential staples for the home cook and the professional chef.

The Story

The narrative arc of the book begins with an appeal to history, grounding the modern reader in the culinary traditions of ancient Hindoo kings. By elevating curry to a regal, near-mythical status—citing its use by legendary figures who possessed the secret to health and longevity—the text establishes a foundation of authority. The author positions these historical "mysterious powders" not as remnants of the past, but as essential tools for the contemporary kitchen.

The journey continues through a rigorous, almost clinical evaluation of the market. The author recounts a blind taste test conducted by the New York Chafing Dish Club, where experts sampled over forty varieties of curry powder. This section functions as a bridge, moving from the mythic origins of the spice to the practical reality of the grocery shelf. By identifying a single, superior commercial product as the "official" choice of the experts, the book establishes a clear, unified standard for the reader to follow.

Once the standard is set, the story unfolds into a comprehensive exploration of application. The author does not simply provide recipes; he builds a curriculum. He begins with fundamental techniques, such as the preparation of curry-infused oils, vinegars, and essences. These are the building blocks, intended to provide the cook with a shelf of ready-to-use flavor enhancers. From there, the text branches out into the preparation of complex soups like Mulligatawny, moving systematically through a vast array of proteins—from humble fish and eggs to game, venison, and assorted meats.

The progression is purposeful. The author moves from the "family method" of soup making to more elaborate preparations for shellfish, game, and even vegetable dishes. Along the way, he addresses the common pitfalls of the amateur cook, most notably the technical challenge of boiling rice so that every grain remains distinct. The book culminates in a series of "deviled" preparations and sandwiches, demonstrating that curry is not just for formal seated dinners, but for every level of dining, from breakfast to light luncheons. The final pages leave the reader with the impression that curry is an inexhaustible subject, a "mysterious powder" that, when mastered, offers the home cook a lifetime of varied and toothsome results.

How It Unfolds

The mythic heritage The text opens by situating curry within the legendary practices of ancient kings, suggesting that these spice blends were once the secret to vibrant health. This historical framing sets a tone of culinary reverence that carries through the subsequent practical instructions.

The marketplace selection The author details a blind competition held by professional epicures to determine the most wholesome and effective curry powder available. This segment serves to narrow the reader’s focus, recommending a specific commercial product to ensure success in the kitchen.

The fundamental pantry A series of instructions on creating curry-based oils, vinegars, and essences provides the foundational tools for the rest of the book. These preparations are designed to make the integration of spice into daily cooking effortless and consistent.

The application of technique The central chapters move through a wide variety of proteins, emphasizing the necessity of fresh ingredients and proper heat control. The author provides specific, step-by-step methods for handling everything from delicate frogs and scallops to robust meats like beef and mutton.

The mastery of grains and accompaniments The book concludes by addressing the essential, yet frequently botched, art of preparing rice to accompany curry. By providing these final technical details, the author ensures the reader can present a complete, professional-looking dish that satisfies the requirements of a proper curry service.

The People

The book is driven by the voice of the Author, who acts as both a stern mentor and a connoisseur. He is a man of high standards, impatient with the "uninitiated" who cannot boil rice without turning it into a clump. He wants to save the reader from mediocrity, positioning himself as the arbiter of taste who has already done the difficult work of vetting the ingredients.

Opposing him are the "uninitiated" cooks, the home practitioners who struggle with simple techniques or who rely on inferior, damp-weather spice blends better suited for foggy England than for the American climate. These cooks are not characters in a drama, but rather the intended beneficiaries of the author’s wisdom. They represent the current state of culinary ignorance that the author seeks to rectify.

Finally, there are the "experts" and "English epicures" who participate in the blind taste test. They function as the Author's witnesses, providing the external validation necessary to prove that his chosen curry powder is indeed the gold standard. They leave the text having reached a consensus, their collective opinion serving as a seal of approval that the reader is invited to trust and adopt.

In Its Own Voice

"The secret of the cuisine of these noted cooks was a mysterious powder, which, when added to their dishes, cured disease, as well as appeased the appetite."

The author establishes the historical importance and medicinal reputation of curry powders in his opening remarks.

"The essential point to be gained is that after boiling, each grain must be distinct and unbroken, yet tender and to every appearance fairly ready to burst."

While explaining the proper method for preparing rice, the author highlights the technical precision required for even the most basic accompaniments.

"It will surprise the uninitiated when they compare the bulk of the rice before and after cooking."

The author offers a brief, confident observation on the transformative nature of correct cooking techniques.

What It's Really About

The central argument of the book is that culinary success depends upon the marriage of high-quality, standardized ingredients with precise, disciplined technique. Beneath the recipes lies a broader question: how can the home cook elevate simple, everyday food into something extraordinary? The author proposes that curry is the answer, acting as a bridge between the historical legacy of "celestial food" and the modern, commercialized kitchen. The book argues that flavor is not a matter of luck, but a matter of chemistry—one that requires the right oil, the right spice, and the right degree of heat to achieve the desired result.

Why Read It Today

Readers with an interest in culinary history will find this volume deeply rewarding. It offers a rare, unfiltered look at the Victorian-era obsession with spices, as well as a window into the specific brand-name marketing of the late 1800s. The voice is remarkably consistent—authoritative, slightly brusque, and deeply passionate about the "proper" way to perform a task.

While some of the ingredients, such as specific commercial bouillon or proprietary sauces, may be difficult for a modern cook to replicate precisely, the core techniques for braising meats and creating emulsified sauces remain highly relevant. The reader will need to navigate the author's occasional reliance on brand-name products, which serves as a reminder of the book's original intent as a promotional guide. However, for those who enjoy the ritual of the kitchen and the history of flavor, the book provides a unique, concise look at the early integration of global flavors into the American home. It is a brisk, informative read that values technique above all else, leaving the reader with a lasting respect for the effort required to make a simple dish truly excellent.