The Art of Living in Australia: Together with Three Hundred Australian Cookery Recipes and Accessory Kitchen Information by Mrs. H. Wicken

In Short

This is a foundational work of Australian domestic literature, blending public health advocacy with a comprehensive cookbook. The author argues that Australians are fundamentally misaligned with their climate, consuming far too much tea and heavy butcher’s meat while ignoring the potential for fresh fish, market vegetables, and local wine. By combining scientific observations on hygiene and climate with hundreds of specific, budget-conscious recipes, the book serves as a blueprint for a more rational, healthier national lifestyle. Its historical significance lies in its early, conscious effort to define an "Australian" way of living that honors the unique local environment.

The Story

The narrative begins with a stark geographical diagnosis: Australians are living in a semi-tropical environment while maintaining the dietary habits of the cold United Kingdom. The author asserts that this disconnect is not merely a matter of taste, but a pressing health concern. He presents detailed meteorological tables comparing Sydney and Melbourne to cities in Europe, the United States, and India to prove that the Australian climate is more temperate and predictable than residents realize. From this premise, the argument pivots to the kitchen, which the author identifies as the heart of national improvement.

The middle section of the book systematically dismantles the common Australian reliance on heavy meat and tea. The author advocates for a revolution in the pantry, calling for the development of deep-sea fisheries, the cultivation of varied vegetables, and the elevation of local wine to a daily staple. To support this transition, the text shifts into a rigorous instructional phase, provided by Mrs. H. Wicken. This practical component outlines everything from the correct maintenance of a kitchen stove to the precise, step-by-step methods for preparing everything from "Jersey Soup" to "Cosmopolitan Salad."

As the work progresses, it expands its scope to encompass personal hygiene and domestic management. The author discusses the necessity of daily bathing—even in modest dwellings—and provides specific advice on the use of woollen garments to protect the body from sudden chills. He connects these domestic choices to broader societal outcomes, arguing that an educated housewife is the linchpin of a prosperous, stable nation. The text culminates in a focused plea for technical education, particularly for girls, who are to be the primary agents of this dietary and domestic reform. The book concludes with a vision for the future: a nation that has fully shed its "imported" habits to embrace the bounty of its own soil and seas. By the final pages, the reader is left with the sense that the author views the kitchen as a laboratory for nation-building, where the simple act of choosing a salad over a heavy roast is a patriotic duty. The argument is clear: by harmonizing personal habits with the natural environment, the Australian people will secure their long-term health and the development of their country’s great food industries.

How It Unfolds

The climate diagnosis The author compares Australian temperatures to those of Southern Europe and India, establishing the case for a distinct, localized diet. He highlights the "enervating" nature of humid sea breezes and the lack of violent temperature swings as reasons to abandon heavy, northern eating habits.

The call for domestic reform The focus shifts to the national diet, specifically the unhealthy overconsumption of meat and tea. The author identifies the lack of market gardening and the failure to exploit deep-sea fisheries as significant obstacles to national progress.

The technical kitchen manual Mrs. H. Wicken provides hundreds of recipes designed to be both nutritious and affordable for the average household. The instructions emphasize efficiency, from the correct use of a percolator for coffee to the precise mashing of salsify.

The hygiene and lifestyle guide The text moves toward personal health, advocating for the daily use of the sponge or plunge bath to harden the constitution. It includes a detailed defense of wool as the most essential fabric for the Australian climate, despite its aesthetic drawbacks.

The vision for the future The final chapters argue that the education of girls in domestic science is the key to a successful, independent society. The book ends by reiterating that with better technical instruction and local investment, Australia can produce world-class products, such as fine wines and fresh produce.

The People

The author, Philip E. Muskett, acts as the primary voice of reason and scientific inquiry. He is a man driven by a singular, patriotic ambition: to see his countrymen thrive by embracing their environment rather than fighting it. He is a critic of tradition who is not afraid to label certain habits as "deplorably neglected."

Mrs. H. Wicken serves as the practical counterpoint to the author's broad arguments. As a Lecturer in cookery, she represents the technical expertise required to turn lofty goals into tangible results. She is meticulous, demanding, and deeply concerned with the "order and neatness" that must govern the kitchen. Her recipes are the tools she provides to the reader to realize the author's vision.

Finally, the "Australian housewife" is the central figure for whom this entire project is intended. She is the person being asked to change her ways—to learn the nuances of a stove, to master the emulsification of oil and vinegar for a salad, and to prioritize health over outdated social customs. The author treats her not as a passive recipient of instructions, but as the essential architect of the nation's future, whose daily decisions in the kitchen will determine the health of the next generation.

In Its Own Voice

"For years past the fact that our people live in direct opposition to their semi-tropical environment has been constantly before me."

The author explains the primary motivation for writing this book in his preface, noting the disconnect between the local climate and the colonial diet.

"Order and neatness must reign in the kitchen as well as in the drawing-room, and it will help greatly to bring about this desirable state of affairs if all utensils are cleansed and put away immediately they are finished with."

In the section on kitchen management, this passage emphasizes the high standards of discipline required for a well-run household.

What It's Really About

At its core, this book is an argument for environmental adaptation. It explores the tension between inherited cultural habits and the realities of a new, different land. The author posits that a nation cannot truly flourish if its people refuse to acknowledge the climate in which they live. By examining the "food-habits" of the era, the text asks a fundamental question: what does it mean to live in a place? For the author, the answer is found in the soil, the sea, and the kitchen. He advocates for a "rational" existence, suggesting that true independence for Australia requires shedding the culinary and social baggage of the Northern Hemisphere in favor of local, sustainable, and scientifically informed living.

Why Read It Today

This book will appeal to those who enjoy social history, as it provides a vivid, granular look at the concerns and aspirations of late 19th-century Australians. Reading it feels like being lectured by a well-meaning, slightly impatient uncle who knows exactly how to fix the country but is frustrated by everyone’s attachment to tea and heavy roasts. The prose is precise, instructional, and filled with the earnest, sometimes rigid, optimism of its era.

Modern readers should be prepared for the book's period-specific attitudes, particularly regarding the rigid gender roles that define domestic life. The author’s insistence that a woman’s primary destiny is that of a "housewife" reflects the standard view of the time and may feel restrictive to contemporary sensibilities. Additionally, the sheer volume of recipes and the specific references to 19th-century kitchen tools and prices can be dense for a casual reader. However, the book remains a fascinating time capsule. It captures the struggle to define a national identity through the mundane, essential act of preparing a meal, and its advocacy for fresh produce, local wine, and a "rational" lifestyle feels surprisingly relevant to modern conversations about food security, local sourcing, and the importance of eating in harmony with one's surroundings.