The Bible in Spain, Vol. 1 [of 2]

In Short

Sent by the Bible Society to distribute Protestant Scriptures across a devoutly Catholic nation, a bold English traveller journeys through Spain and Portugal during a era of brutal civil war. Crossing rugged mountains, vast plains, and ruined cities, he mingles with horse thieves, gypsies, soldiers, politicians, and cloistered nuns. Rather than a dry religious report, his chronicle forms a vivid tapestry of Peninsular life, marked by eccentric encounters, dangerous roads, and keen observations. It has endured for its fiery prose, its deeply human portraits of forgotten landscapes, and the sheer narrative force of a traveller at home among society's outcasts.

The Story

The author travels to the Iberian Peninsula as an agent for the Bible Society, charged with printing and distributing the New Testament in a region long dominated by traditional Catholic authority. Arriving in Lisbon, he sets out across Portugal toward the Spanish frontier. The journey immediately exposes him to the harsh realities of Iberian travel, from icy mud floors and desolate pine forests to drunken coachmen whose carelessness leaves their beasts dead in the road. Even in the countryside, historical decay and religious mystery shadow his path, whether he is exploring ancient military ruins or holding strange, tittering conversations through a convent's turning table with nuns who pass their idle hours baking cheesecakes.

Crossing into Spain at Badajoz, the nature of the expedition expands. To navigate a country fractured by the violent Carlist conflict and infested with highwaymen, he seeks out guides and allies from the margins of society. He forms an immediate bond with the Spanish gypsies, traversing dark roads alongside enigmatic companions whose secret lore and hidden languages match his own surprising fluency. Guided by these figures, he travels through towns like Trujillo and Talavera, sleeping in gloomy inns and avoiding local authorities who view any stranger with intense suspicion.

Reaching Madrid, he faces the formidable task of securing official government permission to print the Scriptures without Catholic commentary. He navigates a labyrinth of political intrigue, petitioning ministers, dukes, and stubborn secretaries who invoke centuries-old decrees from the Council of Trent to block his work. Only by leveraging British diplomatic influence does he manage to clear the bureaucratic hurdles and set the printing presses into motion.

With books in hand, he embarks on extensive, hazardous circuits through northern and western Spain. Riding powerful, untamed horses purchased at bargain rates during wartime roundups, he hauls his heavy cargoes of Bibles across the flinty hills of Castile, the rainy mountain passes of Galicia, and the coastal towns of the north. Everywhere he goes, his presence provokes reaction. Hostile innkeepers brand him a heretic or a Jew and demand extra payment to purify their rooms after his departure. Local officials quarrel bitterly over regional rivalries, while Carlist insurgents and brutal partisan bands terrorize the surrounding countryside. Yet, despite constant danger, suspicion, and physical exhaustion, he continues his march—distributing Testaments to willing readers, posting notices on church doors, and embedding himself deeply in the daily life of the ordinary people before eventually seeking temporary refuge in Tangier.

How It Unfolds

The journey begins The author arrives in Portugal and travels through rugged country toward the Spanish border. He dines in humble, chill-floored inns, converses with local figures on politics and literature, and observes the quiet decay of ancient mountain convents.

Disaster on the road While traveling toward Vendas Novas, a drunken driver entangles his guidance rope, causing a mule to fall and die in the dirt. The author reacts with fury at the driver's carelessness, forcing the party to wait on the roadside while a replacement mount is fetched.

Entering the underworld Crossing into Spain at Badajoz, the author aligns himself with a gypsy companion named Antonio. Traveling under the cover of night to avoid hostile towns and dangerous guards, he gains the trust of his guide by displaying an uncanny knowledge of secret tongues and customs.

Barriers in Madrid Reaching the capital, the author attempts to secure permission to print the New Testament. He meets with high-ranking politicians and hostile secretaries who refuse his request based on old religious decrees, until diplomatic pressure alters their stance.

Wartime preparations As civil war ravages the countryside around Madrid, the author purchases a wild black Andalusian stallion to haul his books up the northern hills. He reflects bitterly on the cruelty of partisan leaders who plunder the land under the guise of political ideals.

Venturing into the north Hauling his religious books across Castile and Galicia, the author faces deep suspicion from local hosts. Innkeepers mistake him for an evil presence, adding extra charges to his bill to cover the cost of spiritually purifying the house after he leaves.

Reaching the coast The journey concludes in the coastal towns of Galicia, where the author recruits local allies like a talkative notary in Pontevedra to sell Testaments. After enduring endless travel, harsh weather, and constant hazards, he eventually retires for a season to North Africa.

The People

• The Author: An intrepid English missionary and linguist who travels the dangerous roads of Spain and Portugal. He seeks to distribute the Scriptures, yet he is equally driven by a passion for strange encounters, unusual languages, and life among society's outcasts.

• Antonio: A Spanish gypsy who serves as the author's guide through hazardous territories. He wants to navigate the countryside safely without drawing the attention of local authorities, relying on his sharp wits and secret networks to bypass danger.

• Oliban: An Aragonese secretary in Madrid who stands as a bureaucratic obstacle to the author's mission. Bound by tradition and legal precedent, he firmly refuses to allow the publication of the Scriptures without Catholic commentary until political influence forces his hand.

• The Landlord of Cordova: A talkative innkeeper who thrives on the custom of foreign travellers. He navigates the shifting political winds of the civil war with cynical adaptability, caring far more about his business than the ideological battles fought around him.

• Señor Garcia: A brisk, patriotic notary public in Pontevedra who enthusiastically undertakes the sale of the author's Testaments. He is fiercely devoted to his home town and harbors a comical, bitter enmity toward the rival neighboring port of Vigo.

In Its Own Voice

“The fellow, in the recklessness of intoxication, seemed at first disposed to make light of his loss, saying, ‘The mule is dead; it was God’s will that she should die; what more can be said?’” The author responds to a drunken driver’s indifference after a carriage accident on a Portuguese road.

“I was, as I may say, from first to last adrift in Spain, the land of old renown, the land of wonder and mystery, with better opportunities of becoming acquainted with its strange secrets and peculiarities than, perhaps, ever yet were afforded to any individual...” The author reflects in his preface on the unique, unvarnished nature of his travels across the Peninsula.

“Innkeeper.—Muger, it appears to me that we have evil guests in the house. Wife.—You mean the last comers, the Caballero and his servant. Yes, I never saw worse countenances in my life.” Overheard conversation between a superstitious Castilian host and his wife regarding the author's arrival.

What It's Really About

Beneath its religious pretext, the book is an exploration of cultural encounter, independence, and human variety in a country torn apart by political violent conflict. While the nominal goal is the distribution of Protestant Bibles, the true core of the narrative lies in the author's deep fascination with marginalized communities—particularly the gypsies—and the unspoken codes that govern their lives. The text constantly contrasts rigid ecclesiastical and state authority with the wild, lawless freedom of the road. It asks whether genuine human connection is found in dogmatic institutions or in shared shelter, common struggle, and mutual understanding among strangers.

Why Read It Today

This narrative appeals to readers who appreciate classic travel literature, rich historical atmospheres, and character-driven adventure. Reading it feels like sitting beside a sharp-eyed, deeply eccentric companion who is entirely unfazed by physical hardship or societal rules. The prose moves with vigorous momentum, offering colorful glimpses into a 19th-century Iberian world that has long since vanished.

Modern readers should be prepared for its considerable length, period-typical religious biases, and occasional anti-Catholic sentiment, which reflect the author's Protestant background and mission. Furthermore, the narrative frequently shifts into local dialects, foreign phrases, and lengthy descriptions of regional squabbles. However, these quirks ultimately enrich the text rather than diminish it. What stays with you long after reading is not the religious debate, but the vivid sensory details: the taste of roasted rabbit on a cold mud floor, the glow of a cigar guiding two riders through pitch-black mountain passes, and the unforgettable portraits of ordinary people surviving in a land of beauty and turmoil.