The Blackmore Country

In Short

This book is a topographical and literary exploration of the region immortalized by novelist R. D. Blackmore. It guides the reader through the Devon and Somerset landscapes—from the village of Culmstock to the wild expanses of Exmoor—that form the backdrop of Lorna Doone and The Maid of Sker. By blending local history, architectural observation, and anecdotes about the area’s residents, the work illuminates the real-world settings behind the author’s fictional aliases. It remains a valuable resource for those seeking to understand the deep, atmospheric connection between this storied English countryside and its most famous literary chronicler.

The Story

The narrative begins in the quiet, pastoral surroundings of Culmstock, where the young R. D. Blackmore spent his formative years. This section establishes the author’s intimate bond with the local arts, crafts, and "rude realities," which he later distilled into the settings for Perlycross and other tales. The account moves from these fertile lowlands into the history of the region’s manors and the often-troubled local lore, such as the grim tradition of public executions and the ancient squabbles of abbots and lords over the grisly symbolism of the gallows.

As the journey progresses, the focus shifts to Tiverton and Bampton, towns shaped by fire and centuries of industrial change. Here, the reader learns of the interplay between physical ruins and the imaginative reconstruction of the past, as well as historical figures like the courageous Lady Harriet Acland, who risked her life to find her wounded husband during the American Revolution. Her story, marked by hardship and devotion, serves as a bridge to the broader, more rugged history of the region.

The narrative then ascends into the heart of the moor, exploring Simonsbath, the Bagworthy valley, and the legendary stronghold of the Doones. The book systematically separates the myth of these outlaws from the agricultural reality of the yeoman farmers, such as the real-life Snow family, whom Blackmore famously (and controversially) caricatured. The journey continues toward the coast, stopping at Porlock, where the presence of poets like Southey and the preservation of local church monuments offer a glimpse into the endurance of tradition.

Finally, the pilgrimage reaches the northern heights of Dunkery Beacon, a natural barometer and signal point for the countryside, before winding through Parracombe and the abandoned ancient churches of the coast. The journey concludes not with a finality, but with a descent back into the "world of commonplace" via the Lynton railway. Throughout the arc, the book consistently weighs the "poetic essence" of the land against the historical facts, correcting misconceptions about the origin of local names and the identity of the families who inhabited these farms, ultimately grounding the reader in a landscape that is both a physical location and a literary construct.

How It Unfolds

The approach The author sets the scene in the village of Culmstock, detailing the slow, serpentine railway travel through the vale. He introduces the reader to the "poetic essence" of the region, noting how Blackmore transformed these deceptive, fictionalized locales into the settings of his novels.

Historical echoes The narrative pivots to the darker traditions of the area, including the case of Tom Musgrove, a local thief whose life ended at the gallows. This section grounds the reader in the social realities of the past, contrasting pious pretensions with the brutal law of the time.

The town of the two fords Shifting to Tiverton and Bampton, the book examines how catastrophic fires and quarrying have altered the landscape. It analyzes the remnants of castles and ancient courts, connecting the physical structures to the historical families who once governed the region.

The heart of the moor The journey climbs toward the high, wild ground of Exmoor, identifying the real-life inspirations for the Doone valley. The author carefully corrects literary myths, providing an accounting of the actual yeoman class, like the Snows, against their fictional counterparts.

Coastal traditions and conclusions The final stages move toward the sea, covering Porlock, the beacon of Dunkery, and the quaint hamlets of Parracombe. The book ends by acknowledging the transition from the romanticized, wild landscape back into the mundane reality of modern travel.

The People

R. D. Blackmore himself stands at the center of the work as a keen observer, a man capable of wringing deep meaning from the "rude realities" of his home. His father, a man of modest means and priestly duties at Culmstock, provides the biographical foundation for the author’s early life. The book also introduces the reader to local figures like the notorious Tom Musgrove, whose blend of religious hypocrisy and criminal activity offers a stark, grounded counterpoint to the romanticized bandits of fiction.

The narrative also resurrects historical figures like Lady Harriet Acland, whose display of courage during the American war highlights the grit of the region’s inhabitants. Conversely, the book examines families like the Snows and the Quartlys, who represent the sturdy, land-owning yeoman class. The author is particularly protective of these real-world families, often stepping in to clarify their true status and historical record, especially when Blackmore’s own fiction has unfairly caricatured their ancestors. Through these portraits, the book emphasizes a tension between the fictionalized "farmer" archetypes in literature and the actual, respected individuals who tended the soil of Devon for generations.

In Its Own Voice

“Above all, he had the enviable gift of being able to distil from the rude realities their poetic essence--the prize of loving intelligence.”

The author describes Blackmore’s unique ability to observe the mundane details of his childhood home and transform them into literature.

“The level champaign traversed by the caricature of locomotion is remarkable for its fertility, and for many other things redolent, I wot, to the ordinary resident of nothing but the meanest bathos--so deadly in use!”

Reflecting on the slow, local train line, the author contrasts the traveler's sense of novelty with the resident's potential indifference.

“Grey and sad, grey and sad, / With a rain-wrought veil are thy shoulders clad: / Sad and grey, sad and grey, / Weird is the mist creeping up to-day.”

A local poem is included to capture the atmospheric, brooding nature of Dunkery Beacon, which serves as both a landmark and a weather predictor.

What It's Really About

The central theme is the intersection of local geography and literary imagination. The book asks how much of a landscape is defined by the history lived upon it, and how much is constructed by the writers who describe it. It explores the struggle between the "poetic essence" of a place—the intangible, romantic spirit that attracts readers—and the hard, historical facts of agrarian life, church records, and boundary disputes. By meticulously fact-checking the myths of the Doones and the origins of the yeoman farmers, the work argues that the true "Blackmore Country" is not merely a stage for fiction, but a complex, enduring site of human labor, family history, and traditional lore that demands respect beyond its literary fame.

Why Read It Today

Readers who hold a deep affection for the works of R. D. Blackmore will find this book an essential companion, as it acts as a bridge between the printed page and the physical terrain. It is a rewarding read for those who enjoy the feeling of "literary tourism"—the desire to walk the paths that inspired a favorite story. The book’s tone is warm and conversational, making the reader feel like a guest on a guided pilgrimage through the West of England.

However, modern readers should be prepared for the book's period-specific style. The author employs a somewhat formal, occasionally ornate vocabulary, and the text is deeply immersed in the local dialect and social hierarchies of the early 20th century. There are instances where the narrative assumes the reader has an existing, intimate knowledge of the novels, and the occasional reliance on long-forgotten family feuds or genealogical debates may prove slow for those looking for a quick travel guide. Nevertheless, for anyone interested in the endurance of place and the way landscapes hold onto their ghosts, the book offers a rich, tactile experience. It captures a version of England that, while partially transformed by time, still offers the "scent-laden breezes" and rugged vistas that continue to define the charm of the Devon countryside.