The Land of the Long Night

In Short

Paul Du Chaillu recounts a rigorous expedition through the snowy expanses of Lapland and the Arctic reaches. Traveling by horse-drawn sleigh, reindeer, and skees, the narrator journeys through severe blizzards, visits rural farms, and stays with nomadic Lapp communities. He learns to navigate the harsh environment, participates in deep-snow leap contests, fishes for cod, and witnesses the seasonal shift as daylight returns. The book endures for its enthusiastic, firsthand observation of traditional Arctic life, cold-weather survival tactics, and the quiet resilience of Northern cultures.

The Story

The narrative opens with an invitation to young readers to leave equatorial forests behind and enter a realm dominated by snow, wind, and prolonged darkness. Starting his travels through Scandinavia, the author journeys from post station to post station by horse-drawn sleigh. He encounters sudden blizzards, unearths buried farmhouses alongside local boys, and learns to appreciate the warmth of northern hospitality, simple meals of barley porridge, and home-spun textiles. As he travels further north, the terrain demands a change in transportation. Abandoning horses for reindeer, he learns the mechanics of driving different types of boat-like wooden sleighs, such as the kerres, lakkek, and akja.

Moving deeper into the Arctic regions, the author meets nomadic Lapp families and earns their trust. He learns the nuances of managing reindeer, observing how speed and stamina vary with the temperature and the texture of the snow. Discussions turn to constant threats, particularly wolf packs that threaten to scatter and destroy entire herds. The arrival of a woman on skees warning of nearby wolves puts the encampment on high alert, leading to hunts across the frozen wilderness. Beyond daily survival, the narrator witnesses the athletic feats of the local people, particularly high-speed skee-leaping across treacherous mountain gullies and frozen rivers.

Continuing north to locations like Lake Givijaervi and Karasjok, the author documents the varied lifestyles of both Nomadic and Sea Lapps, as well as local storekeepers. He describes log hamlets, distinct tall stature among certain groups, and unique winter wear, including dragoon-style helmets worn by women. Conversations with local hunters yield insights into bear behavior during winter torpor and their ravenous spring emergence. The expedition faces its most dangerous phase when descending steep, mountain slopes toward the Arctic Ocean, where reindeer slide and leap past abrupt drops at breakneck speeds.

Reaching the coast, the narrator boards a vessel to navigate dark ocean waters illuminated by phosphorescent animalculae. He joins local fishermen on rough seas, hauling in cod lines while dodging tangled tackle and enduring brutal hail and sleet storms. After lodging in turf-built gammes shared with small livestock to preserve heat, the author experiences the arrival of spring. As the sun rises higher, the snow softens, ptarmigans and arctic foxes shed their white winter coats for gray and blue fur, and the long Arctic night finally gives way to daylight.

How It Unfolds

The voyage begins The author travels through snowy Scandinavian post roads by horse, learning to trust the instinct of speed-loving horses as massive blizzards approach. He helps local farm families clear snow-buried dwellings, shoveling trenches down to doors and barn entrances.

Adapting to Lapland Moving past horse-accessible roads, the narrator encounters small-stature Lapps who teach him how to steer various light, wooden sleighs over crisp, packed snow. He trades his traditional habits for reindeer teams and learns to navigate using skees across trackless white plains.

Life in the tent The author stays with nomadic Lapp families, observing their indoor customs, the mechanics of reindeer speed, and the grave danger posed by wolf packs. A sudden warning from a woman on skees sets the camp on edge to protect their vast herds from attack.

Spectacles of skill Lapp skee-jumpers perform daring leaps over deep mountain gullies and frozen rivers, using single sticks as rudders. The narrator plants an American flag to signal the start of their thrilling speed competitions down steep slopes.

Reaching the Arctic coast The journey presses into Karasjok and coastal regions, where log hamlets and turf gammes house both families and tiny livestock for shared warmth. A dangerous mountain descent brings the expedition to the edge of the Arctic Ocean.

Seafaring and spring The author journeys on the open sea, witnessing phosphorescent waters and joining fishermen in hauling heavy cod lines during icy squalls. As temperatures rise, melting snow forces nighttime travel, while local wildlife sheds white fur for summer coats.

The People

• Paul Du Chaillu (Herr Paul / Paulus): The inquisitive narrator and traveler who seeks to explore the far North. He wants to experience Arctic survival firsthand, learn reindeer driving and skeeing, and document local life, leaving the journey with a deep respect for northern traditions.
• Nils and Erik: Energetic farm boys who help the narrator clear a buried house by climbing through the chimney, forming an instant bond over hard labor and shared meals.
• Wasara and Pehr Wasara: Father and son Lapps who welcome the narrator into their tent, teach him the dynamics of managing reindeer herds, and explain the constant struggle against wolf packs.
• Jon: A Finlander farmer who welcomes the narrator into his home and encourages him to switch from horses to reindeer for the northernmost leg of the journey.
• Jakob: A knowledgeable northern guide who shares detailed insights into the habits of brown bears during their long winter fast and their dangerous spring emergence.
• Captain Johansen: A resilient seafaring captain who guides the fishing vessel through squalls and hail, reading the harsh weather as a welcome sign of approaching spring.
• Mikel: A traveling companion whose boisterous snoring on the snow startles the reindeer during daylight rest stops on the spring thaw.

In Its Own Voice

"We worked with a will, and succeeded in clearing the trench leading to the door, and there was a great shout of joy when it opened."

After crawling through a soot-filled chimney, the author and local boys clear heavy drifts to free a buried household and its livestock.

"The keel acts like a runner, and when the snow is well packed and crisp, the sides of the sleigh hardly touch it..."

A Lapp driver explains the mechanics of boat-shaped sleighs designed to glide across deep snowdrifts.

"There is ten times more fun in skeeing than in skating. It is like all sports, the more danger there is in them the greater are the excitement and the interest."

Local Lapps explain the thrill of high-speed skee-leaping over treacherous mountain chasms and frozen rivers.

What It's Really About

Underneath the travelogue and seasonal adventure, the narrative explores human adaptation in extreme environments. It illustrates how isolated communities build warm, vibrant social structures despite month-long darkness and sub-zero cold. The text highlights a deep interdependence between humans, animals, and nature, where survival relies on mutual aid, animal instincts, and specialized skills like skeeing and sleigh-crafting. It also reflects on the passage of time and light, contrasting the solemnity of the polar night with the rejuvenating return of the sun. Ultimately, the book presents the Far North not as a desolate wasteland, but as a lively region filled with distinct traditions, hospitality, and quiet endurance.

Why Read It Today

The Land of the Long Night offers a vivid, immersive look at 19th-century Arctic exploration that appeals to lovers of travel literature, winter survival stories, and cultural history. Reading it feels like sitting beside a crackling hearth while an energetic narrator spins tales of frost-bitten cheeks, high-speed sleigh rides, and steaming bowls of barley porridge. The prose carries a straightforward, classic charm, conveying open-hearted curiosity without artificial melodrama.

Modern readers should anticipate period-typical framing—the book is written from the perspective of a 19th-century Western explorer observing indigenous cultures, though his tone remains consistently warm, respectful, and eager to learn rather than condescending. Readers must also adjust to detailed descriptions of practical daily life, regional geography, and animal husbandry that slow the pace down. What stays with you long after reading is the intense atmospheric contrast: the biting draft of a 30-below-zero Arctic gale set against the comforting refuge of a turf-roofed home filled with shared soup, kindness, and animal warmth.