The Log of the Empire State

In Short

Geneve L. A. Shaffer's travel chronicle details a three-month commercial relationship tour of Asia aboard the steamship Empire State, undertaken by the San Francisco Chamber of Commerce. Departing from a festive San Francisco, the delegates journey to Honolulu, Japan, China, Singapore, Java, and the Philippines, balancing official receptions, trade discussions, and diplomatic interviews with sightseeing and heavy seas. The book preserves a unique historical snapshot of 1920s Pacific commerce, colonial administrations, and cultural exchanges, enduring as an engaging and detailed record of early twentieth-century international diplomacy and travel.

The Story

The journey begins as the steamship Empire State leaves San Francisco, carrying members of the Chamber of Commerce on a sweeping three-month tour of the Orient. Passengers quickly settle into shipboard life, enjoying the ship's bar, Chinese waiters in blue kimonos, deck dances, and evening movies, though soon interrupted by severe storms, sliding deck chairs, and widespread seasickness. After navigating rough waters, the ship arrives in Honolulu, where local leaders like Governor Wallace R. Farrington and Mayor John H. Wilson greet the delegates, initiating discussions on regional labor and sugar-cane economies.

Crossing the Pacific toward Japan, the delegation celebrates Chinese Independence Day in the steerage under the guidance of Dorothy Gee before catching their first hazy glimpse of Fujiyama and docking in Yokohama. The travelers plunge into an intense schedule of diplomatic receptions, temple visits in Tokyo and Nikko, and industrial inspections of silk factories where young girls endure grueling hours. They grapple with the high cost of living for American residents, marvel at local customs, and take daring flights in a Vickers Vimmy biplane to view the Great Wall of China and Ming Tombs.

Moving southward, the delegation reaches Shanghai and Hong Kong, witnessing stark contrasts of wealth, impoverished factory conditions, and bustling international trade. In Singapore, they observe the expatriate reliance on heavy drinking to combat the oppressive heat, before the party fragments across Java to explore ancient ruins like Bora Badur and traditional courts. Reconvening for the final leg, the delegation arrives in Manila during the publication of the Wood-Forbes Report. They meet with Governor-General Leonard Wood, who stresses the necessity of continued American presence, and Filipino leaders like Manuel Quezon and Sergio Osmena, who argue for immediate independence.

Returning northward, the travelers stop once more in Hong Kong and Canton, where Governor Chan Chuing Ming hosts a spectacular reception emphasizing democratic trade expansion and the Open Door policy. Homeward bound, the delegation narrowly escapes disaster when a small motor boat carrying Carrie Schwabacker gets dragged under by a larger steamer on the Pearl River. They recover through spirited shipboard festivities, including an Italian-themed "Sanguinetti's Night" complete with spaghetti, amateur acting, and mahjong tournaments. Finally, the Empire State steams back toward California, leaving the travelers enriched by a complex, eye-opening odyssey across the Pacific rim.

How It Unfolds

The voyage begins The steamship departs San Francisco amid cheering crowds, floating bouquets, and a celebratory open bar that establishes a lively shipboard community. Passengers quickly settle into daily routines featuring dining, dancing, and attentive service from white-clad Chinese waiters.

Storms and island welcomes Severe weather soon batters the vessel, sending passengers sliding across tilted decks and causing widespread seasickness that turns the upper deck into an emergency ward. Upon reaching Honolulu, the weary travelers find relief through warm official receptions, scenic drives, and valuable discussions on local agriculture.

Receptions across Japan Docking in Yokohama, the delegation transitions to land for formal diplomatic meetings, embassy receptions, and temple explorations in Tokyo and Nikko. They observe demanding industrial labor in silk mills, rent rickshaws for street travel, and navigate the high expenses of expatriate life.

Pivotal stops in China and the tropics The journey continues through Shanghai, Hong Kong, and Canton, where delegates encounter contrasting scenes of modern trade, traditional markets, and industrial poverty. Members also scatter across Java to tour historic ruins, observe local courts, and experience intense tropical heat.

Debates in Manila Arriving in the Philippines, the delegation examines political conditions immediately following the release of the Wood-Forbes Report. They engage directly with Governor-General Leonard Wood and nationalist leaders who hold sharply differing views on the future of American administration.

A narrow escape and homeward festivities Heading back across the Pacific, a small excursion boat carrying key delegates nearly capsizes after getting caught beneath a larger steamer on the Pearl River. The travelers put the danger behind them through immersive themed parties, costume nights, and game tournaments, concluding their extensive tour with lighthearted camaraderie.

The People

The contingent features prominent figures driven by commercial curiosity and diplomatic duty, encountering formidable barriers of climate, language, and political unrest. A. F. Morrison seeks constructive dialogue on regional cooperation, aiming to align California's economic prosperity with Hawaiian needs despite complex labor challenges standing in his way. Governor-General Leonard Wood wants to secure long-term stability, public health improvements, and economic expansion in the Philippines, though he faces intense local demands for immediate independence championed by nationalist leaders like Manuel Quezon and Sergio Osmena. Meanwhile, spirited travelers like Carrie Schwabacker strive to maintain collective morale during harrowing ocean storms and a terrifying near-drowning incident on the Pearl River, ultimately emerging from the journey with a seasoned perspective on the fragility of travel. Other figures like Carl Westerfeld and Warren Shannon push past physical exhaustion to explore foreign territories via biplane and strenuous outdoor excursions, shifting from comfortable American businessmen into adaptable global observers. Throughout the voyage, these figures confront stark cultural divides, grueling industrial labor conditions, and heavy bureaucratic hurdles, transforming from conventional tourists into deeply informed participants in early twentieth-century international relations who carry a permanent understanding of the Pacific's vast complexities and trade networks.

In Its Own Voice

Reflecting on the unexpected abundance found upon first entering their floating quarters, the author notes the sheer volume of parting gifts:

Apparently there was no place left for even our hats, thoughtful gifts, fruits, candy and flowers, filled every inch of ordinary space.

Describing the striking contrast and intense labor observed during a visit to a Japanese silk manufacturing plant, the text observes:

Although the heat was oppressive, it was surprising to see how ceaselessly, and apparently without pain, little girls from twelve years up, kept five cocoons unrolling at once, in boiling water, in order to make a single thread of silk.

Capturing the lively and unconventional atmosphere of shipboard entertainment inspired by Italian culture, the narrative recalls:

Spaghetti and ravioli were enjoyed along with the red wine that flowed freely, while the orchestra played only Italian and "Jazz" pieces.

What It's Really About

The book explores the intersection of American commercial expansion and the complex political realities of the early twentieth-century Pacific rim. It examines the economic interdependence between the United States and its overseas territories, particularly regarding sugar, silk, and labor management in Hawaii, Japan, China, and the Philippines. Beneath the surface of festive receptions and tourist excursions lies a serious inquiry into colonial administration, foreign trade policies, and the ethics of industrial labor. Shaffer questions whether American oversight should persist in developing regions, balancing the enthusiasm of visiting capitalists against the genuine aspirations for local autonomy voiced by regional leaders. Ultimately, the work investigates how geographic isolation gives way to interconnected global markets, highlighting the cultural frictions and diplomatic responsibilities that accompany modern international commerce.

Why Read It Today

Modern readers interested in early twentieth-century history, travel writing, and geopolitical dynamics will find this chronicle endlessly fascinating. Reading it feels like flipping through a meticulously preserved scrapbook compiled by an observant participant, offering an unfiltered window into how American business leaders perceived the world outside their borders during the 1920s. The text captures the genuine excitement of global exploration alongside the jarring culture shocks of international travel. However, contemporary readers must approach the book with an awareness of its historical limitations, including uncritical acceptance of colonial hierarchies, stark racial stereotyping, and period attitudes toward foreign labor. Despite these difficult aspects, the sheer vividness of the prose and the granular detail of daily life on a historic steamship make it a compelling artifact. What stays with the reader long after finishing is the striking juxtaposition of high-level diplomacy with the intimate, often humorous mishaps of ordinary travelers navigating an unfamiliar world.