The Near East: Dalmatia, Greece and Constantinople

In Short

This travelogue records a journey through Dalmatia, Greece, and Constantinople on the eve of political upheaval. The author observes medieval coastal towns, classic Greek ruins, and the turbulent capital of the Ottoman Empire. His writing captures the atmosphere, architecture, and quiet moments of daily life across these regions. The book endures for its rich atmospheric detail, balancing an appreciation for ancient history with a sharp eye for the immediate human presence within these historic landscapes.

The Story

The narrative opens along the Dalmatian coast, where the traveler explores small, fortified cities facing the sea. In Zara, he observes the interplay of Roman fragments, Venetian towers, and quiet harbors packed with brightly painted vessels. The journey continues toward Ragusa, a medieval paradise enclosed by massive fortress walls, where ivy climbs over archways and gardens bloom in ancient moats. Moving through Cattaro, the landscape shifts into a dramatic scene of autumn foliage, ringed mountains, and distant bells echoing across the landlocked waters.

From the Adriatic, the author travels to Greece, landing at the Piræus at dawn. He approaches Athens through a still, dew-soaked landscape after a long dry season. Upon reaching the Acropolis, he encounters the Parthenon, finding its broken Doric columns and roofless sanctuary deeply moving in their quiet majesty. He explores modern Athens, noting its white marble Academy, wide streets, and the unpretentious, democratic character of its citizens. He takes trips into the surrounding countryside, visiting the quiet convent at Daphni with its ancient mosaics, the lonely marble columns of the Temple of Poseidon at Sunium, and the forested slopes near Delphi and Olympia. At Olympia, he contemplates the fallen stones of ancient sanctuaries nestled quietly among wild grasses, pine needles, and singing birds.

The final leg takes the traveler into Constantinople, a city gripped by military tension. Regiments of soldiers, artillery trains, and loaded mules pass through the streets at all hours as Turkey prepares for war. The author feels a stark division between the modern, unpleasant district of Pera and the older, melancholic region of Stamboul across the Golden Horn. He visits the Grand Bazaar, a massive city within a city filled with quiet merchants, painted arches, and ancient fountains. At a public appearance, he catches sight of the weary Sultan stepping heavily from a golden carriage.

He wanders into Santa Sophia, where birds fly beneath the high marble arches and worshippers rest or pray on woven matting. Wandering further, he reflects on the dark history of intrigue surrounding the tombs of Suleiman and Roxalana, the vibrant tiles of the small mosque of Rustem Pasha, and the quiet mosaics of the Chora. The journey closes along the crumbling land walls of Stamboul, where Turkish Gipsies dance and play music among the weeds of the ancient moat.

How It Unfolds

The voyage begins The journey opens among the coastal fortifications of Dalmatia. The author wanders through the narrow streets of Zara, admiring the Venetian gate, the massive campanile of Sant' Anastasia, and tiny landlocked harbors filled with colorful vessels.

Along the Adriatic shore Arriving at Ragusa, the narrative details a medieval landscape surrounded by formidable stone bastions and lush gardens. The traveler moves from quiet cloisters to hidden mountain paths, taking in the unique blend of Slav, Venetian, and Austrian influences.

Arrival in Attica Landing in Greece at dawn, the writer travels from the port of Piræus to Athens. He stands before the Parthenon, describing how its simple, shattered marble shell commands a profound calm over the surrounding landscape.

Excursions through the countryside The narrative moves beyond the capital to historic sites like Sunium, Delphi, and Olympia. Among the solitary columns and forested hills, the traveler observes quiet ruins abandoned to nature, where sheep-bells ring and wild flowers grow over ancient stones.

Entering the Ottoman capital The narrative shifts to Constantinople, where the atmosphere is dominated by military preparations, marching troops, and artillery. The author contrasts the noisy, modern streets of Pera with the subdued, historical depths of Stamboul across the Golden Horn.

Within mosques and bazaars The traveler spends time inside the vast Grand Bazaar and the quiet interior of Santa Sophia. He observes the daily rhythm of readers, praying worshippers, and resting citizens within the ancient sanctuaries.

Beside the historic walls The journey ends along the decaying outer walls of Stamboul. Looking past ancient tombs and quiet graveyards, the author encounters Gipsy children dancing in the moat to the sound of distant pipes and guitars.

The People

The traveler serves as the central observer, seeking historical depth and atmospheric quiet across changing landscapes. His observations focus on how local populations inhabit their historic environments without disturbing their underlying peace. In Greece, he notes the modern Athenians, including local citizens, princes, and the king, who walk unassumingly through the capital's streets and park gardens. He encounters local guides and caretakers, such as the kindly woman who maintains the quiet Byzantine convent at Daphni and a one-armed guardian watching over the solitary marble columns at Sunium.

In Constantinople, key historical figures shape his impressions of the urban landscape. He reflects on the legacy of Sultan Suleiman and his consort Roxalana, whose past ambitions and violent intrigues still seem to linger around their quiet garden tombs. Among the living, he observes the reigning Sultan, a bulky, exhausted figure in a blue uniform who moves without expression through official ceremonies. He also highlights everyday figures within the city's sacred spaces, including Mustafa Effendi, the golden-robed muezzin of the Mosaic Mosque, and a fanatical young singing boy reading the Koran on the matting of Santa Sophia.

In Its Own Voice

"Brightly painted vessels, closely packed together, lie on the blue-green water."

The author captures the quiet morning atmosphere inside a tiny Dalmatian harbor nestled beneath high fortress walls.

"Wildness and calm seem woven together, a warm and almost caressing wildness with a calm that is full of romance."

Standing near the ancient ruin at Sunium, the writer reflects on the unique, peaceful quality of the Greek landscape.

"Doves have made their home in the holy place."

Describing the vast interior of Santa Sophia, the author observes how birds fly freely under the high marble arcades.

What It's Really About

The book explores the relationship between ancient history, natural landscapes, and the quiet routines of contemporary life. It contrasts the grand, enduring monuments of past civilizations—such as the Parthenon, the ruins at Olympia, and the great mosques of Stamboul—with the temporary nature of human politics and military conflict. Throughout the narrative, the author examines how nature gradually reclaims places of ancient struggle, turning battlefields and ruined temples into peaceful sanctuaries. By observing small daily details like birds drinking from stone basins, children studying in quiet corners, or flowers growing over ancient pavement, the text highlights the quiet persistence of everyday life amidst the shadows of history.

Why Read It Today

Readers who enjoy vivid, atmospheric travel literature will appreciate this detailed account of the Eastern Mediterranean. The narrative provides a clear, unhurried view of coastal Croatia, classic Greek archaeological sites, and Ottoman Constantinople just before the outbreak of major European conflict.

The prose is slow and descriptive, focusing heavily on visual details, architecture, color, and local mood. It avoids dramatic personal adventures in favor of careful observation and quiet reflection. Readers accustomed to fast-paced travel memoirs may find the detailed descriptions of buildings, landscape colors, and quiet ruins somewhat leisurely. Additionally, the text reflects early twentieth-century Western perspectives on the regions visited, particularly in its distant observation of local populations and historical events. Nevertheless, the book remains a rewarding read for those interested in historical travel writing, offering a calm, precise portrait of famous landscapes captured at a pivotal moment in history.