Travels in the Far East

In Short

This narrative records a nine-month journey taken by an American woman and her travel party across Asia and North Africa in 1907 and 1908. Moving through Egypt, India, Burma, Ceylon, Java, Siam, China, Manchuria, Korea, and Japan, the text documents architectural landmarks, local religious practices, historical sites, and the logistics of early twentieth-century international travel. The account endures as a vivid snapshot of global tourism during an era of significant political transition, capturing the perspectives, prejudices, and curiosity of a turn-of-the-century Western observer.

The Story

The journey commences as the author departs Milwaukee, passing through Chicago and New York before crossing the Atlantic via the Azores and Gibraltar. Arriving in Egypt, the party spends considerable time exploring Cairo. The narrative examines the history and layout of the city's congregational mosques, detailing the Mosque of Amr, the Mosque of Ibn Tûlûn, and the sprawling urban expansion from the original Arab settlement of Fustât to modern Cairo. Leaving Egypt via the Suez Canal, the travellers sail to India.

In India, the party encounters stark contrasts between architectural grandeur and widespread poverty. In Bombay, the author notes the imposing Gothic Indian civic architecture and buys tropical gear to endure the intense heat. Traveling inland, the itinerary includes Delhi, where the travelers visit the Red Fort, the Pearl Mosque, and the bustling shopping thoroughfare of Chandni Chauk. In Benares, the author describes the Monkey Temple and observes thousands of pilgrims along the bathing ghats of the sacred Ganges River, while reflecting on the severe famine and poverty affecting the local population.

The tour moves on to Burma and Ceylon. In Burma, the author observes a classless society, traditional bamboo housing, and local cultural performances like the pwe in Mandalay, alongside visits to Christian mission schools. In Ceylon, the travelers explore the lush mountain scenery, botanical gardens, and tea factories of Nuwara Eliya before descending to the ancient capital of Kandy.

Sailing further east, the group arrives in Java, documenting the tropical fruits, local dining customs such as rijsttafel, and the relaxed attire of Dutch colonials in Garoet. A journey to Siam introduces the reader to regional court customs, religious festivals, and the annual celebrations surrounding the monarch's birthday. In Macao, the travelers inspect an opium factory and observe Portuguese colonial architecture before proceeding to Japan.

In Japan, the route covers Kyoto, Tokio, and Miyajima. The author describes shooting the rapids at Arashi-yama, exploring the mortuary temples of the Tokugawa Shoguns in Shiba and Ueno Parks, and viewing ancient Shinto shrines. Crossing into China and Manchuria, the party visits the Observatory and Yellow Temple in Peking, then ventures as the first organized tourist group into Mukden to view the Ming dynastic tombs. After a final stop at Miyajima, the author sails back to North America, concluding the expedition with a return to Milwaukee.

How It Unfolds

The voyage begins Leaving the American Midwest behind, the author crosses the Atlantic Ocean, stopping briefly at the Azores and Gibraltar before reaching Port Saïd and entering Cairo to study its historic mosques.

Traversing the Indian subcontinent After equipping themselves with protective sun gear in Bombay, the group travels through Delhi and Benares, taking in imperial architecture, sacred river ghats, and the visible realities of regional poverty and famine.

Excursions through Southeast Asia The party observes traditional village life and theatrical performances in Burma, visits tea plantations in Ceylon, experiences colonial life and volcanic landscapes in Java, and notes the civic festivals of Siam.

Encountering East Asia and returning home Navigating Macao's opium trade and Japan's historic shrines, the travelers push into Peking and Mukden to inspect dynastic tombs before embarking on the ocean voyage back to North America.

The People

Ellen Mary Hayes Peck The author and main narrator, an inquisitive American woman who undertakes a nine-month international tour. Driven by a desire to record her experiences for her daughter and friends, she approaches new environments with formal curiosity, meticulously documenting historical facts, architecture, and local customs while adhering strictly to the safety guidelines of her tour director.

The Tour Director The unnamed leader responsible for the logistics, itinerary, and safety of the traveling group. Focused on preserving order and avoiding conflict, he enforces strict rules against separating from the group or handing out money to crowds of local children, and initially resists expanding the itinerary into unfamiliar territories like Mukden.

The Daughter The author's child, referenced in the foreword as the primary inspiration for the journey and the published book. Though not actively present as an individual character in the daily entries, her request for a complete record shapes the descriptive depth and educational tone of the entire narrative.

Mr. Macheeda A Japanese guide who accompanies the party during their travels through Japan. Described by the author as a gentleman of Samurai descent, he earns the group's respect through his knowledge, helpfulness, and reliable guidance through local landmarks.

In Its Own Voice

"The building of a mosque was regarded by the rulers not only as an expression of religious zeal, but as a contribution to the life of the State."

This reflection introduces the author's detailed historical analysis of Cairo's religious architecture and its civic role.

"Northern India is the so-termed 'famine district,' and the famine of one year is said to have destroyed over four millions of people; pestilence is always threatening these natives, and besides, the demands for tribute of an enervated priesthood have to be met."

Here the author records her observations on the severe economic and physical hardships facing the native population in India.

"At the King-jo Hotel, under Japanese management, we found six rooms furnished in supposed European style; these opened on upper and lower galleries and were comfortable."

This entry captures the accommodation details and cross-cultural encounters experienced by the group as the first tourist party to enter Mukden.

What It's Really About

The text addresses the mechanics and cultural dynamics of early twentieth-century global tourism. Beyond documenting geographic landmarks, the narrative explores how Western travelers processed the vast technological, architectural, and social differences of non-Western societies during a period dominated by European imperialism.

It highlights the tension between romanticized expectations of the Orient and the harsh realities of local poverty, colonial governance, and rapid modernization. The author continually measures her immediate impressions against historical records and expert testimonies, reflecting a turn-of-the-century desire for systematic classification, educational self-improvement, and structured observation in travel literature.

Why Read It Today

This volume appeals to readers interested in early twentieth-century travel writing, colonial history, and historical geography. Reading the text offers a direct window into the mindset of an affluent American traveler in 1908, providing insight into how Westerners viewed global cultures just prior to the massive political realignments of the First World War.

The prose is straightforward, clear, and organized chronologically, making it an accessible historical document. Readers should be prepared, however, for period-typical attitudes, cultural assumptions, and colonial terminology that reflect the biases of the era. The narrative does not attempt deep socio-political critique, remaining focused instead on visual descriptions of architecture, scenery, and logistics.

What remains with the reader is a vivid historical portrait of an era when long-distance travel required months of steamship transit, heavy linen wardrobes, and reliance on local guides. It serves as an informative piece of travel history, illuminating both the world as it existed in 1908 and the perspective of those who set out to record it.