Travels in Western Africa in 1845 & 1846, Volume 2 (of 2): comprising a journey from Whydah through the Kingdom of Dahomey to Adofoodia in the interior

In Short

This travelogue documents an overland expedition through the interior of West Africa, moving past the kingdom of Dahomey into northern territories like the Mahee, Annagoo, and Fellattah lands. The writer travels through jagged mountain ranges, thriving marketplace towns, and devastated war zones to investigate regional trade routes and search for geographical information. Along the way, he notes agricultural methods, native ironworking, political governance, and local customs. The book endures as a vivid, detailed first-hand account of mid-nineteenth-century West African society, written by an observer deeply attentive to practical craft, local geography, and human character.

The Story

The narrative opens in the mountainous regions beyond the Dahoman border, where the author travels with an armed guard provided by the King of Dahomey. Moving through the Mahee territory, he encounters a dramatic landscape of granite peaks, lush valleys, and well-cultivated farmland. He observes local agricultural techniques, including precise crop drilling, four annual maize harvests, and advanced terrace farming along mountain slopes. However, this peaceful industry contrasts sharply with recent history. Ascending the peak of Gbowelley, he witnesses the grim ruins of a town destroyed during a bloody seven-month war against Dahomey. The summit remains strewn with hundreds of human skulls and skeletons, offering stark evidence of a devastating siege where famine and warfare decimated the local population.

Continuing north toward the Fellattah country, the writer passes through a succession of fortified towns, crossing rivers like the Zoa and Ofo using custom-made measuring leads to record depth and current. In every settlement, he conducts formal diplomatic meetings, or palavers, with local rulers known as caboceers. These leaders welcome him with elaborate ceremonies that range from prostrations and dust-throwing to vocal hymns performed by local priests. The author frequently demonstrates his marksmanship to curious crowds and local guards, repairs his horse’s shoes with improvised tools, and exchanges gifts of knives, needles, and cloth for food and regional intelligence.

Reaching the major commercial hub of Adofoodia, the traveler achieves the northernmost point of his journey. Here, he explores vast markets filled with regional merchandise, livestock, and enslaved people. He meets with wealthy traders, including a merchant who provides detailed geographical information regarding Timbuctoo and the tributary branches of the Niger River. After collecting these insights, the traveler begins his return journey southward, suffering from bouts of tropical fever and a severely infected wound.

On his return route through Savalu and Jallakoo, local caboceers receive him with great ceremony, offering provisions, local beer, and protection. Reaching the Dahoman capital of Abomey, he re-engages with the King of Dahomey. The king entrusts him with official messages for the British government, including a formal letter ceding Whydah, while displaying royal treasures such as a thousand-yard patchwork cloth and an ornate throne supported by conquered enemy skulls. Despite severe illness that nearly forces him to attempt a self-amputation, the traveler recovers, completes his march back to the coast at Whydah, and sails for England, reflecting on the intelligence and character of the peoples he encountered.

How It Unfolds

Ascending the war-torn mountains The traveler climbs the steep, narrow fissures of Mount Gbowelley, taking off his shoes to scale the rock faces alongside his native guides. At the summit, he encounters a desolate basin littered with hundreds of human skulls and animal bones, the horrific remnants of a Dahoman siege where thousands perished from starvation and battle.

Diplomacy in the market towns Arriving at Zoglogbo, the traveler dons his military regimentals to receive the venerable caboceer Kpatchie. The local leader and his retinue prostrate themselves in respect, after which the parties exchange formal greetings, drink water and rum together, and seal their temporary alliance over a shared evening meal.

Crossing the Fellattah frontier As the expedition approaches Koma, a host of wild Fellattah cavalry on speedy horses charges toward them, brandishing broadswords and yelling. The traveler orders his men to march in single file and prepare for defense, but the charge proves to be an energetic ceremonial greeting rather than an ambush.

Reaching the trade hub of Adofoodia In Adofoodia, the traveler walks through crowded markets and confers with a merchant who recently arrived from Timbuctoo. The trader describes the true layout of Timbuctoo as a riverine salt-trading mart rather than a massive metropolis, clarifying regional geography and the structure of the Niger River's tributaries.

Audience with the King of Dahomey Back in Abomey, the author meets with the king to dictate official correspondence to the British Secretary of State. The king presents his state chair carved from a single block of wood resting on enemy skulls, displays forty embroidered velvet tobes, and offers a young native girl as a gift to the Queen of England.

The arduous return to the coast Plagued by fever, ague, and a painful leg injury, the traveler presses south toward Whydah, clearing fetish obstacles from the trail along the way. He reaches the coastal port, bids farewell to local merchants, and boards a vessel for a difficult three-month voyage back to England.

The People

• John Duncan (The Author): An adventurous and pragmatic British traveler who leads the expedition. He wants to explore the interior of West Africa, document its geography and trade, and locate information about previous European explorers. Armed with practical skills in blacksmithing, shooting, and surveying, he handles physical hardship, fever, and dangerous misunderstandings with steady composure.
• The King of Dahomey: The powerful monarch whose royal authority guarantees the author's safe passage through volatile regions. He wants to establish strong diplomatic and commercial ties with Great Britain, offering territories and lavish gifts while maintaining absolute, formidable control over his own domain.
• Kpatchie: The aged caboceer of Zoglogbo, a tall and dignified leader who greets the traveler with traditional prostrations. He acts as a generous host, providing food, shelter, and an armed escort, while taking immense pride in hosting a foreign guest.
• Terrasso-weea: A prominent trader and traveler whose movements across the interior serve as a key target for the author’s northward push. His knowledge of the routes leading toward Timbuctoo provides critical geographical clarity to the expedition.
• Agoa: The caboceer of Whagba, who leads a colorful military procession to escort the traveler out of his town. He bids farewell to the author with tears in his eyes, offering open hospitality for any future return.

In Its Own Voice

"In our ascent I observed many very large cotton-trees in the fissures, with scarcely any soil to support them."

The author notes the dramatic flora clinging to the bare rock faces as he climbs into the high Mahee territory.

"Hundreds of human skulls, of different sizes, were still to be seen; as also the skulls of sheep, goats, and oxen."

Upon reaching the summit of Mount Gbowelley, the author records the bleak physical evidence left behind by a brutal siege.

"This piece of patch-work, I was informed, measures one thousand yards in length, and eight yards in breadth."

During his audience at the royal palace in Abomey, the author describes an extraordinary display of prestige crafted from fabrics gathered across the world.

What It's Really About

At its core, the text explores the reality of mid-nineteenth-century West Africa beyond European preconceptions. It contrasts the destructive violence of regional warfare with the sophistication of local agriculture, manufacturing, and governance. The author constantly documents native ingenuity—such as advanced crop drilling, multi-tier crop rotation, specialized iron smelting, and complex market networks—showing that these interior societies possess rich, highly organized economies.

The narrative also examines the mechanics of authority and diplomacy in a region governed by strict ceremonial protocols. Through every exchange with local caboceers, state constables, and monarchs, the book reveals how hospitality, trade, and political power were negotiated across diverse cultural boundaries.

Why Read It Today

This travelogue appeals to readers who enjoy straightforward, observational historical narrative without romanticized drama. Duncan writes with the eye of an artisan and soldier; he pays close attention to how things are built, how crops are grown, how weapons are used, and how terrain dictates strategy. His descriptions of market towns like Adofoodia and Savalu provide an unvarnished look at West African trade and daily life prior to late-nineteenth-century colonial partition.

The book does present specific reading challenges. Modern audiences will encounter period colonial attitudes, outdated terminology, and detailed listings of regional leaders and itineraries that slow the narrative pace. Furthermore, the casual presence of severe human suffering—from ruined cities filled with war casualties to open slave markets—gives the text a harsh, stark tone. Yet, for those interested in authentic historical geography, the author's observant, grounded approach creates a valuable and memorable document of travel in an era of profound transition.