Twenty Years in Europe: A Consul-General's Memories of Noted People, with Letters From General W. T. Sherman

In Short

This collection of memoirs captures two decades of American diplomatic service in Switzerland and Italy during the late nineteenth century. Through a series of diary entries, personal anecdotes, and correspondence with General W. T. Sherman, the author provides a vivid portrait of a Europe in transition—witnessing the birth of the German Empire and the unification of Italy. Beyond the political backdrop, the book serves as a thoughtful meditation on the nature of exile, the shifting landscape of international relations, and the enduring bonds of friendship forged in the crucible of the American Civil War.

The Story

The narrative begins in 1869 with the author, a Union veteran, securing a consular post and departing for Switzerland. His arrival coincides with a period of profound upheaval in Europe, notably the Franco-Prussian War. From the vantage point of a café in Zurich, he observes the anxiety of political exiles and the cold, calculated machinations of Bismarck. The author’s experiences are defined by his dual role: he is both a detached observer of European "blood and iron" diplomacy and an active representative of American interests, navigating the complexities of protective tariffs, trade disputes, and the frustrations of navigating the rigid bureaucracies of foreign capitals.

As his tenure progresses, the focus shifts from the turbulent politics of the north to the cultural and social life of Rome. The author moves through a world of expatriate artists, weary aristocrats, and the haunting beauty of historical sites. He recounts personal encounters with figures like Pope Leo XIII and reflects on the tragic, sudden natural disasters, such as the mountain slide that destroyed the village of Elm, which contrast sharply with the refined life of the consular corps. Throughout these travels, the author maintains a steady anchor in his correspondence with General Sherman. These letters, woven into the text, reveal a side of the famous general—warm, domestically inclined, and intellectually engaged—that stands in stark contrast to his reputation as a military hardliner.

The arc of the book is not merely a record of appointments and official duties but a chronicle of a life spent between worlds. The author finds himself defending American commercial interests one moment and contemplating the ruins of Roman history the next. The ending is not a climactic resolution but a reflection on the passage of time. As the author concludes his service and moves toward the later stages of his career, the narrative settles into a tone of quiet contemplation. The excitement of international politics yields to the weight of memory. He concludes with a perspective gained through maturity, viewing his years abroad as a formative, often strange, and deeply significant chapter that bridges the gap between his experiences in the American Civil War and the new, modern century on the horizon. He leaves the reader with a sense of the world as a place where beauty and tragedy coexist, linked by the personal threads of those who cross paths in the service of their nations.

How It Unfolds

The Departure The author sets out with a presidential commission, leaving the post-war United States for the unfamiliar terrain of Switzerland. He finds himself immediately struck by the linguistic barriers and the intellectual ferment of a country harboring political exiles from across Europe.

The War Years The narrative captures the sudden arrival of war between France and Prussia, detailing the tension in Zurich as the fate of empires is decided. The author provides a firsthand account of the mounting casualties and the shifts in European power that redefine the continent.

The Diplomatic Struggle A significant portion of the book focuses on the granular frustrations of the consular office, particularly the conflicts surrounding trade, tariffs, and diplomatic protocol. These entries highlight the disconnect between American commercial ambitions and the entrenched realities of the European market.

The Roman Sojourn The scene shifts to Italy, where the author observes the intersection of religious power, high society, and the lives of expatriate artists. This section contrasts the grandeur of the Vatican with the pettiness of social climbers and the deep, abiding history of Rome.

The Final Reflection The book closes with the author’s return to American life and his final contemplations on the men he knew and the events he witnessed. The concluding chapters serve as a synthesis of his observations, underscoring the impermanence of political systems against the backdrop of history.

The People

The author, Samuel Hawkins Marshall Byers, serves as the steady eye through which the narrative is filtered, balancing his professional duty with a deep curiosity about the human condition. His primary correspondent, General W. T. Sherman, emerges as the book’s emotional heartbeat; he is a man of intense public stature but private warmth, whose letters reveal his intellectual depth and a surprising tenderness toward his family and friends. Bismarck appears as a cold, strategic force, moving nations like chess pieces, representing the hard-edged reality of modern statecraft that the author finds both impressive and terrifying. Pope Leo XIII provides a moment of profound, almost ethereal calm, his saintly presence leaving a lasting impression on the author, regardless of the diplomat's personal creed. Finally, the various expatriate socialites and artists who populate the Roman chapters serve as foils to the author’s grounded American sensibilities, highlighting the divide between those who embrace their origins and those who seek to lose them in the pursuit of titles and social standing.

In Its Own Voice

The author reflects on the emotional weight of his time abroad, acknowledging the transient nature of diplomatic life.

“Time robs us all of some things we would keep, And favoring winds to-morrow may forsake; But, joyous thought--O! Future! Smile or weep, The happy years behind us none can take!”

The author encounters a Roman site that underscores his fascination with the enduring power of history.

“There is one church here, the ‘Liebfrauen Kirche,’ exquisite in its beauty, that stands as the most perfect specimen of Gothic architecture remaining in the world.”

What It's Really About

At its core, the book examines the tension between the individual and the machinery of the state. The author grapples with the questions of whether diplomacy can ever truly bridge the cultural divides between nations and how, in an age of hardening borders and rising nationalisms, a person maintains their identity. It is an argument for the value of the "witness"—the belief that the quiet, recorded observations of a consular officer are just as essential to history as the proclamations of emperors. Ultimately, it asks how one reconciles the grand, tragic march of history with the small, precious moments of personal connection that sustain us.

Why Read It Today

Readers who enjoy the slow, observant prose of the nineteenth-century memoirist will find much to admire here. It is an ideal companion for those interested in the Gilded Age, as it provides a rare, grounded view of American diplomatic life before the era of instant communication transformed the service. The writing is warm and deeply personal, though the modern reader should be prepared for the author’s occasional reliance on the period’s casual assumptions about race, nationality, and social class. These moments of period-specific bias are unavoidable, but they also serve as a useful, if sometimes jarring, record of the mindset of the time.

The book’s true strength lies in its ability to transport the reader to the cafés of Zurich and the hills of Rome, grounding grand historical changes in the everyday reality of a man trying to do his job while managing his homesickness. It is not a fast-paced thriller, but a steady, rewarding meditation on a life well-traveled. If you value historical perspective and the intimate details of a life caught in the wake of great events, you will find this work both charming and enduring. It leaves you with the quiet sense that history is not just made by the powerful, but also by those who stand by, watch, and record the world as it changes.